[philB]

Hi Jeff

Here are my comments for what they are worth as I have been through your problems more times than I care to remember. First thing is the epoxy, good quality is a must this is why everyone will recommend D2T or Envirotex, both these are proven epoxies. Second, well sealed wood as air problems which create craters and dimples can be air release from the wood and not the exoxy, remember if you are using heat to smooth and level then you are going to expand the air within the wood which will then force its way out into your top coat, I have in the past created craters like volcanoes.
Third is cleanliness, silicone and grease marks will prevent the exoxy adhering to the surface and thats when you get your classic 'dry' spots where the epoxy pulls away from the contaminated area, these are of a quite different appearance than craters or dimples. I would suggest that dust does not come into the equation as all this does is sit in and on the epoxy and not look nice, it is an aesthetic corruption.
Next is something that I believe is very important, this is temperature and humidity. Epoxy does not behave well in high humidity and low temperatures. I cured a load of my problems with the purchace of a de_humidifier which has a heater incorporated. A dry atmosphere and warm environment will encourage epoxy to behave.

[silverdoctor]

BobP and philB; Thank you for taking the time to record your experiences and the reasoned way you present your observations. Most of all I wanted to complement your writing skills; I still "smell" a book on luremaking. Wouldn't it be awesome to include sections on some of the "masters" past and present? Woody Bell (early Japanese lure designer?), Tennesse Tuffy, Bagley, and so on.

Yes, I am sober, ken

[Dean McClain]

Everyone who responded to silverdoctor's problem was possibly correct. Eliminating or preventing any possible surface contamination before applying any clearcoat is always necessary. If you're going to heat your epoxy, then the lure must be thoroughly sealed, as philB noted...and as anyone who has ever tries to seal balsa with heated epoxy immediately learns .

Dean

[Downriver Tackle]

Originally Posted by BobP

Guess this a litteral case of "different strokes/different folks". I never have a problem wetting out the surface with Devcon. I think of it as laying on epoxy rather than forcefully brushing it, and I want to keep the brush loaded so I'm not dragging a "dry" brush over the surface. I use inexpensive square "blending brushes" that cost $8-9 for a 6 pack. They're not really "soft" bristled but they're way softer and finer than a coarse bristle flux brush. End result? - same glass like coating as DT

Guys who do it regularly develop a routine that works for them and it's always different from someone else's. It doesn't matter as long as we get to the same finish.

I wasn't saying your technique was wrong. Just disagreed that a fine brush "can do a much better job", as you posted. Maybe with urethanes or acrylics, but brush doen't matter too much with epoxies. I buy packs of 85 1/4" disposables on Ebay for around $10.

[Emmett]

Using the hair dryer on the bait, after the epoxy is applied and while it is turning on the wheel, to just smooth it out works great for me. I don't heat the bait, just blow the epoxy with a little worm air to smooth it out. What can I say, it works good for me.

[redg8r]

All great tips, but like Striperknight & smitty mentioned, craters or voids in an epoxy finish is most likely oil/wax contamination.

Heating & various application methods will improve or ease the application an epoxy finish, but if the surface is contaminated, oils & waxes will "repel" the epoxy from flowing or wetting out properly.

Make sure you have adequate light to inspect your application if you are brushing on epoxy, its real easy to miss a spot, if you indeed covered the entire surface & voids continue, then its contaminated.

Smitty's solution of adding a barrier coat is one fix, another would be to avoid touching the body with bare hands & make sure you have a good water/oil trap, along with a filter on your air lines (if airbrushing).

[The_Rookie]

EPOXY
MOISTURE CLEAR

[clamboni]

Originally Posted by The_Rookie

EPOXY
MOISTURE CLEAR

[Downriver Tackle]

Originally Posted by The_Rookie

EPOXY
MOISTURE CLEAR

One coat of good epoxy PAINT, not glue, and you're done

3-5 coats of moisture cure? Naw!

[BobP]

IMO, epoxy has a single advantage over moisture cured poly - it levels out and hides surface irregularities extremely well. Otherwise, the poly is tougher and slicker. On the high end japanese bait repaints that Rookie is famous for, DN wins hands down. Thin, clear, glossy and tough as nails. Just what he's looking for.

A few TU'ers (well, maybe just Dean!) use multiple coats of Dick Nite as their standard clearcoat. It makes a very durable lure but takes several days to apply. If you've ever sanded moisture cured poly like DN to prep a repaint, you'll see why guys choose it.

TU'ers are roughly divided between guys who build baits as a hobby and guys who are into production for sale. The different perspectives mean alot when choosing equipment and finishes.

Haven't had so much fun since the Devcon-ETEX skirmishes! Cry "Havoc!" and loose the dogs of war!