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  #1 (permalink)  
Old September 4th, 2008
 
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Rookie top coat question

Is anyone using Polyurethane ? Like the hardwood floor type. I think it's about $20 a gallon and is made for wood.

If someone has tried it please let me know the downside, it seems like it may be worth a shot.
Dan
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Old September 4th, 2008
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Re: Rookie top coat question

Several TUers use Dick Nite moisture cured polyurethane (check it out by clicking on the banner ad that's often at the top of this page). I know similar polys are sold as floor finishes but I think DN poly is probably thinner. Another consideration is yellowing. It's not too big a deal when applying poly over interior wood floors but can be a biggie on a white bait. I think a tough poly with UV inhibitors might do OK though.
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Old September 4th, 2008
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Re: Rookie top coat question

Dan, I have a quite few old lures in the shed, which were made and used about 25 years ago (and sooner) on which I used floor lacquer as a finish. I recently had a look at them and they are still brand new, but as Bob says they have yellowed a bit- this is not that noticable on darker colours, and if using them yourself, who cares. The good thing about this stuff (compared to brittle D2T) ,is it is very tough, or what I would call 'stroft', strong but soft. And cheap.!!! pete
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Old September 5th, 2008
 
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Re: Rookie top coat question

Thanks guys,
I went about this backwards, I posted the question then searched.
It seems the trick is to find a floor poly that does not yellow, I bet the stuff could be thined out with acitone* (can't spell)
I will keep looking.
Dan
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Old September 5th, 2008
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Re: Rookie top coat question

Dan,
One of the early selling points of water cured urethane floor finishes was that they don't yellow over time, so they keep the light woods, like maple, light.
My floor guy uses "Traffic". It's a brand. Not sure of the spelling.
He says it holds up the best on residential and commercial floors.
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Old September 5th, 2008
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Re: Rookie top coat question

I am in the concrete coatings industry and there are good polyurethane products that are UV stable. We don't use epoxy for exterior surfaces because it yellows. Even in garages, the first couple feet of the garage will yellow on an epoxy floor. Granted, I live in Arizona and we have more UV than anywhere else.

Polyurethane that we use is superior to epoxy. It's dual component, 60+% solids. Try Veron 246 Polyurethane. It's resistant to UV, chemicals, everything. It's what they use in airport hangers.

It's not cheap, however. Gunna set you back about $120-$150 per 1 gallon.
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Old September 5th, 2008
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Re: Rookie top coat question

I've used water based urethane on wood flooring and it works OK but I'm suspicious that it might absorb water and turn white on a crankbait (it goes on milky looking and dries clear). As far as thinning a floor epoxy, I don't like acetone because it is volatile and flashes out of the coating very quickly, not to mention it eats plastic. I'm thinking virgin lacquer thinner would be better but reading the instructions might tell you the best solvent.
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Old September 6th, 2008
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Re: Rookie top coat question

there is a poly from the Plaid company sold under the brand FolkArt at places like AC Moore...........it is non yellowing and made for outdoor use which I guess means it is ok under UV. It is pretty cheap and not to stinky. I bought an 8 oz container a few weeks ago because it looked thin enough to spray in my badger air brush. Eventually when I get some free time I will experiment with it and post the results.
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Old September 8th, 2008
 
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Re: Rookie top coat question

Hello,
I just wanted to say thanks for all the tips, I will try a few things and see what works. I will also post any relevant information I come up with.
Dan
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