[tyjack]

I’m looking for Tricks and Techniques that can help speed up applying the clear coat.

The way I’m doing it takes about 20 – 30 minutes per lure. So when I’m done with the three coats I have just about an hour ½ in each clear coat. I’m using Etex with the small art brush from the $ store.

I’m getting great results. But I’m just putting in a great deal of time into every bait.

Is there a better brush or are you dipping your baits?

[hazmail]

Check out the tutorials section, there is one by 'Fatfingers' on etex. pete

[Downriver Tackle]

Didn't use Etex, but used to use a multiple coat clear system that was pretty cumbersome. Switched to FlexCoat Ultra V for single coat coverage and could knock out probably 50-60 lures in that 1.5 hours with 5-10 lures per mix and probably just as high of quality of clear, if not better. If I ever quit manufacturing my own clear, I'd go right back to Ultra V in a heartbeat.

[Vodkaman]

Tyjack

I'm not so sure if you will have access to the tutorials, as you are not a 'club member' yet.

But, as applying the top coat with a brush, should not take more than 3 minutes, I assume the rest of the time is spent rotating the lure manually, in order to keep the top coat level. This is good technique but I agree, rather tedious.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/search.php?searchid=364068&photoplog_searchinfo=1& photoplog_searchquery=drying+wheel+motor

Above is a link to a search on “drying wheel motor”. Read the threads that refer to drying wheel or lure turner, for a variety of ways to construct this magical piece of equipment. Well worth the effort if you plan on making hard baits a hobby. This piece of kit will release your hands to coat ten more lures in the same time.

[tyjack]

Hazmail, I have looked at all the tutorial spent 5 or 6 hours searching in the forum for hard baits. But I don’t see anything giving hints on how they apply the clear. It seem like everything is about thinning it down.

Vodkaman, I can’t open the link you sent. I have been around the block in lure building. I have been playing around with lures for over 15 years. I was on TU for the longest time using CKARREN but I lost my password and I don’t have the email address that I had then. In the past two years I have made very little baits. You know it is kind of hard with 4 kids in all, all boys. Out of all the steeps I have in making my lures this is the one I love to hate. I love seeing the colors coming alive but I hate all the time I put into it. I’m making larger musky lures with a flat side. Yea I have done the smaller bass plugs and it only takes about 3-5 minutes. But my problem is if I rush my bigger musky lures I’ll get big puddles on the bait or a dry spot. I have enough time in the bait alone too go and throw it away because of the clear. That is why I’m asking for the help. I would love any help or anything you could throw at me…

Thanks

-Corey

[LKN4DDB]

Corey,
I dont know why it would take that long but for me to do a swimbait @ about 10 inches and multiplpe sections it only takes 5 - 10 minutes...

I use D2T Epoxy... mix it in a pill cup and apply with a FLUX brush. The Flux brush is the cheapest disposable brush i have found and it has about 1/2inch surface area. Other than that i dont thin it or anything. I get some bubbles here and there but if your worried a light sanding and another coat and it is golden. Hope that helps!

[mark poulson]

Corey,
I am currently using Nu Lustre 55 UV inhibited epoxy, but I have used a lot of Etex, in making my 6"-9" gliders.
I have a drying wheel that's two plywood wheels mounted on a rotisserie shaft, about 14" apart, with screw eyes on the opposing faces.
I mount my gliders on the wheel, using paper clips to adjust for the different lengths of the baits, and then coat them on the wheel.
With the paper clips, I'm able to rotate them enough while the wheel is off to get the epoxy on all the way around.
I use a soft 1/4' wide artists brush.
I let the mixed epoxy sit for a few minutes to let the air bubbles out, and then, if there are still a lot of bubbles, I'll hit it with the hair dryer, to make it more runny and let the bubbles escape faster.
I've heard of using a torch to get rid of the bubbles, but I've never tried it. My luck, I'd burn up my lure.
I've found a good light is important so I can be sure all of the lure is covered.
I try to cover the lure without putting too much on, so I don't get sags. Even with a drying wheel, sags can happen if you put it on too thick.
I usually put two coats on, so I don't worry about not having a thick enough coat the first time. I coat the lure, turn it on my 1 rmp wheel for 24 hours, wipe the lure down with alcohol, let it dry (hair dryer), and re coat, letting it turn for another 24 hours. The epoxy is stiff enough after 6-8 hours that I could turn off the wheel, but I just let it run all night in my garage.
When they come off the wheel, they're ready to fish.
I've found that the brush must be very clean, or residue that's in it from previous sessions will get into the finish coat.
I clean the brush with alcohol, and then with MEK. That seems to get all of the residue out.
I also make sure the brush is completely dry before I start to coat.
Any solvent still in the brush can ruin the topcoat.
With a strong light, I'm able to spot blank spots, or bubbles, or residue, and deal with them while the epoxy is still runny.
I also make jointed swimbaits, and, for those, I coat the insides of the joints with D2T first, since it sets quickly and is waterproof, and then, once it's set, assemble the lure and put in on the wheel for coating the faces with Nu Luster. I've found both the Etex and Nu Lustre are less brittle and tougher than D2T, and work much better for the faces of my wooden lures.
One thing I've found is that the D2T can still be tacky when a joint lets two pieces touch, so I put a small piece of scotch tape at any potential contact points.
And I coat the joints with Megastrike, or some other scent, before I fish them for the first time. For some reason, the fresh epoxy seems to stick to itself, even after it's cured hard and smooth, and the scent acts as a lubricant to prevent the joints from binding on a cast. I only need to do this the first time I throw that lure. After that, the joints don't stick.

[tyjack]

Like I said I’m using the small art brushes from the $ store very small. I have attempted the 1” paint brush and that didn’t work. I was thinking about the Flux brushes but every time I use a Flux brush for Flux I have a problem have bristles falling out in the Flux. I was not going to try and dig all the hairs out of the clear. Are you running into this or are you doing something to the brush? I think it has some to do with the big belly and flat side on my bait trying to put it on even. It seems I’ll have to work the flat edge or I get dry spots.

I know it should not take this long that is why I’m asking what people are using and I thank everyone for any help I can get.

[mark poulson]

First of all, beautiful lure.
Now, I use the 1/4" artist's brush because I also had issues with flux brushes. I clean the brush in solvent when it's new, and dry it with a cloth, pulling on the bristles to remove any loose hairs. I still get the occasional hair. I just watch for them, and pick them off while the epoxy is still runny.
The 1/4" brush puts the epoxy on fast, and it's easier to brush out and get good pressure on all parts of the lure than with the flux brush. I would never use a 1" brush, because I'd be afraid that I'd have trouble controling that much epoxy at once.
One thing Hazmail taught me is to wear latex gloves when I paint, to keep finger prints (oil) off the lure and avoid dry spots caused by the oil.

[Wayupnorth36]

I never want to fool around with bristles, so I use the cheapo sponge brushes, you can pay a lot for them at a hardware store, or keep your eyes open and you can find deals on them in walmart and other places for a dozen or 20 or so for a buck or two. They don't collect dust or lose hairs. I use etex, and don't seem to have any trouble with dust or anything.