[Mallard]

Originally Posted by apb

"It is not always practical to drill the center hole for the thru-wire. I make some darters where the line tie does not line up well with the tail eye."

You can off-center drill the hole on the lathe, or set up a jig to allow this on a drill press. I've used both methods for various striper plugs that are drilled at an angle rather than dead center.

Andrew

You're right, it can be done by either of those methods. When I said it was not practical I meant I was too lazy to do it right. I will go home and make a jig tonight and I can take that off my list of negatives.

What are your thoughts/reccomendations on swivel strenght?

[apb]

For swivels, I've been using SPRO power swivels. Match the size to how long I need for the plug. Typically 130# to 370# test. 1/16" stainless welding wire, 308L. Over built, but I don't worry about one coming apart.

Andrew

[BobP]

I think there are two schools - musky guys and bass guys. I don't like screw eyes in bass baits because they just look too large and obtrusive on a 2 1/4" bait. An 8" musky bait? No problem. Almost any anchor works securely in hardwood but if you're building from soft balsa, the only method I trust is to split the bait in half, insert a wire frame and glue it back together with epoxy. The epoxy forms a strong backbone inside the bait to ensure the anchor points won't be torqued or pulled out. Most of the balsa bait failures I've seen result either from cracking the finish or applying enough force to an anchor that it begins to leak water. Thru wire prevents the latter.

[BEZYB]

i always wondered about the strength of screw eyes in to wood so screwed a .072 stainless eye into pine and looped some wire through it.holding the wood with my feet i pulled on the wire with pliers till something gave,upon inspection the eye had straightened and the screw hadn't moved from the wood.not scientific but proved to me the strength of the eye to wood connection