[The_Rookie]

Apprently Mr. Master of Paint is a man of few words.. But I think I understand what he is saying and the master is a fan of my work Tally! Cause I believe I used the 8 step 5 hours of care line before.... Maybe I should have patent or trademarked the line so Blades couldnt say it LOL..I dont know if he is makin fun of me or was trying to help.. Either way I will take it as a helpful reply! Im still a rookie.. Maybe one day I will sell something on ebay and make a few bucks!!

[Tally]

nah...don't be to critical on JT. He has been doing this for years and I really did not expect him tolay it on the line. However, (like the 3 bears) JT will walk into his shop and say.... "someone has been snooping in my shop". that will be me JT....lol

[Blades and Baits]

Originally Posted by The_Rookie

Anyone want to share the steps they use to do a factory bait!

I had a problem last week!! Bait peeled on me so now I am worried I have done something wrong earlier in the process! It might just be a bad mix of epoxy or the base coat! Either way I was talkin with Talley a Senior Member and he thought this would be a good thing to post! So we are lookin for..Step by Step ways to paint a factory crankbait..

EXAMPLE!

1. Sand the lure
2. Wipe with Alcohol
3. Shoot with Base coat sealer
4. Paint the darn lure
5. Epoxy it
6. Fish it and pray it catches fish!!

I am talking Factory LURES ONLY!!

I just want to make sure it was a mixing issue and not something stupid I should be doing! Thanks guys!

The_Rookie

Nope. My reply was not mean to be of few words. I had attached a file and obviously did not do it correctly nor did I check it later.
So lets start over again.

If the message had completly posted the comment was that you listed 6 steps in your post and I was wondering what happened to the other 2.
I was just curious and am far from a Master at anything.I was thinking I might learn somehing from the 8 steps and 5 hours of care.

Here's what I do:
Note: It depends on the factory bait. Many require more prep and many require less.

1- Scoth Brite the bait (not diving bill) or sand with 100 grit Wet ot Dry Sand Paper.
Most times Normans Gellcoat baits-Rebel Pop R- Mann's Baits especially Stretch 20's and All Storm Baits get the Sand Paper.

2- Steel wool the bait

3- Wash with mild soap and very hot water using a small piece of Scothbrite.Allow to dry well

4- Mask the lip

5- Wipe of with Paper Towel lightly dipped in Lacquer Thinner.
Alcohol in my opinion leaves to much residue on the bait.

6- Blow Bait off with Compressed Air.
I use a blow off nozzle and about 90 PSI. I blow the bait off in front of my Paint Room exhaust fan.Lay the fully prepped bait on a Paper Towel or piece of newspaper so that you dont pick up any unwanted dust or debre.I use paper egg flats.

7- Prime with Lacquer Primer

8- Base coat White
Paint bait as you desire and of course clearcoat with anything but Devcon/Etex. LOL just kidding.


If the Paint is coming off then obviously something did not bond well.
It should be pretty easy to figure out if you take notice of how the paint peeled or if it peeled all the way back to the original bait surface.

You might have done something as simple as not sanded or scuffing the body to insure a good bond.

[BobP]

Etching primer vs sanding. I can see why LC would use etching primer. I doubt the LC factory wants to hire 100 "sanding guys" to sit and prep their blanks for paint. It would be absolutely archaic But most of us mud hut refinishers have to sand the blanks anyway to remove original finish so what the heck. I haven't had any problems with peeling or lifting after sanding with 400 grit and then going straight to acrylic.