i really like how your boat turned out..one problem i'm having is what to support the front and back deck with..without making the boat extremely heavy..
19lowe96,
I have been considering this myself. I have been tossing around the idea of using the steel 2x4 studs they use in commercial construction and some residetial construction. they are light weight and once the floor is attached they would be pretty strong. I am just not sure how they would react since they are galvanized steel and the boats are aluminum I believe.
1x1x1/8 aluminum angle and 1/2" plywood is all you need. You'll get some flex but you have to remember you're in a jonboat and really need to make it as light as possible. Plus, when the boat's in the water, I promise you won't even notice the flex anyway because the boat moves so much with every step you take.
Clamboni is guiding you right .. mixing different metals around water is asking for trouble ... plus other than aluminum is adding weight that you do not want or need.
I modified one with out metal only wood that came out good.
All in the bracing to give it strength.
Hope it turns out OK
JSC
I agree completely. Mixing metals is a problem. thats why the ideas been tossed around and not finished yet. But you see I have this other issue besides the weight of the boat. its the weight of the angler in the boat. I am really worried that the aluminum would not support my weight. And I was afraid of using wood for fear of making the boat to heavy. The steal studs was a good compromise and then you have the electrolosis which will occur with out a doubt and rather quickly I might add. So I was thinking of maybe steel stud free standing framework with plywood decking on a thick rubber mat to keep the galvanized steel from contacting the aluminum floor. connecting to the aluminum sides or seats vit wooden blocks or spacers as a separater to keep the 2 metals from touching but still allowing a firm attachment. Is everyone confused? lol . Anyways thats my thinking and my reason for the overkill on the supports.
thats a really nice job! didnt raise my deck on mine cause of my boys but ive got 2 8 ft rodlockers,livewell/baitwell,storage for 12 plano 2700s plus more storage besides the space for 2 batteries and gas tank......i used a 1 inch aluminum square tubing frame that i brased then pop riveted braces onto besides.floor and side walls are 5051 aluminum from tractor trailor sides and front/rear deck and hatch tops are 1/8 or 1/4 inch diamond plate aluminum...all came from the scrapyard for less than 250.00 bucks.i can walk all over the boat (and i do on a regular basis) and its stable as all git out....only 2 things i wish id done different was covered the sharp corners cause the carpets already wearing bad there and somehow i managed to take the "flex" outta the darn boat. git just the right size waves and the ride will jar you a bit..ill try to git a few pics up tommorrow..
You'll be fine with aluminum. I have a 300 lb friend on my boat a lot and it's still fine after 5 years. Like I said, It'll flex, but you change the center of gravity of the boat so much with each step that the hull will move too much for you to notice the flex.
If you're worried about the angle not being stiff enough, you can use channel instead. Still light but much stiffer than the angle.
MT I am with Clam
An alum boat (which is what I use at the present time and have had others) are far more sensitive than Fiberglass .... Is this a Welded Hull ?
Sold! lol. Thats what I wanted to hear. If that has worked for your friend after 5 years it will work for me. I will definately use aluminum. See, you can teach an old dog new tricks. No it is not a welded hull. I guess this means its time to get to work on it now. Clamboni and JSC thanks a bunch for sending me in the right direction on this. I really really hate doing things twice.
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