Ok 1st off - "epoxy":
you need to get actual rod finish epoxy. Popular choice is called "Flex Coat". You'll have to order it unless you have a local rod building source... the 5 minute stuff you get at walmart just won't work... too thick and it will be full of air-bubbles.
rod dryer:
never done it by hand, but you can use a box - cut a V slot in 2 sides and let your rod rest in the grooves... you can use this for wrapping also... apply your finish and then rotate 90 degrees every few minutes... this will get tedious because you'll have to do it for probably at least 30-45 minutes before you can start stretching that interval. For better advice, go to www rodbuilding org, use the search feature (make sure you select "all dates") and search on "hand turning" or "hand drying". You'll find everything you could ever want.
OR - go on ebay and search for rod dryer in fishing supplies, you want one that is about 4-6rpm range and they can be had for <$20
covering the blank:
you have a few options here. if you use model paint, i would just add the pigment (testors) to your epoxy finish and apply in a solid color and be done. With testors, you want the paint where all the color settles at the bottom, drain off the clear solvent and use a toothpick to get a drop of pigment and mix it with the epoxy.. then apply.
Another option is to wrap the blank with thread - you need nylon wrapping thread size E (or size A works too, e is a little easier imho because its bigger). Once wrapped, apply some color-preserver (rodbuilding section at cabelas or
www.mudhole.com) then cover with epoxy finish.
If you simply want to paint the blank - *i've heard* - you should use an automotive type enamel. A search on rodbuilding.org will solve this for you. I think you would still need to apply finnish.. don't feel comfortable saying either way however... again consult rodbuilding.org
