[Delw]

were are th voids squigster? can you put up or send me a picture?
I am thinking the voids are caused do to the plastic cooled while shooting it. the netcraft bait I couldnt help you on it cause I don't know what it looks like.

be really careful with an air compressor, anything over 3-4lbs of pressure with Haunt you for life.

[squigster]

I will try and send you a pic. I am not going to attempt to use an air compressor. It scares me enough with the injector.

[pirkfan]

I've used the Netcraft molds a lot over the years (these things used to be marketed by Hilts molds, I don't know who really makes them), and there seems to be a learning curve for each mold. Some of them just don't mate well, and you always get excessive flash....pitch those, along with the C-clips that come with all the molds. I have used various clamps, including bulldog paper clips (work pretty well for the easier molds to inject), and woodworking spring clamps in the smaller sizes (work better for difficult molds) Some, like their 4 inch shad minnow mold don't have an injector port in the tail where you'd expect, just tiny vent holes, you have to inject through the head end of the mold where you'd ordinarily see the plastic come out. Once injected, you have to flip everything upside down and add a little more plastic for shrinkage. In regards the injectors...they do have their foibles. You pour the hot plastic in, and the metal tip immediately solidifies the small amount that's in it. Soooo, you put the plunger in, turn the thing right side up and apply slight pressure to get this small solidified plug to slightly bulge out of the tip. With a gloved hand or hemostats, or tweezers, you grab this plug and pull whilst putting gentle pressure on the injector to force new plastic into the tip. Once the plug is gone and melted plastic has started to flow out the tip, get cracking and inject all the molds you have prepared. You'll always have about one third of the injector which will have started to solidify. You get what you get. Pull the solidified plastic out of the injector barrel with a pair of hemostats or tweezers, and save for remelting, don't pitch it back into the melted plastic in your cup or pot, or things really slow down. Don't put a mold on the injector and push down on the injector with the mold, instead, put the mold on the injector tip, and with a gloved hand, push down on the top of the injector and let the plastic flow into the mold under minimal pressure. This avoids release of hot plastic under pressure if the mold slips. Don't force partially solidified plastic into the molds, it's never going to make a complete bait, and you're going to be tempted to push too hard, and bad stuff is going to happen. Use a pizza cutter to cut off any flash. The 6 inch curltail grub with built in injector is SLOWWWW to use, screwing and unscrewing the wing nuts is a pain and my injector plungers have started to break down. But I've caught so many fish with that darn lure I've actually turned new plungers on a lathe just to keep using these molds. Since I'm not making lures professionally, I'm willing to invest some time with these molds and the price is right. If you're careful with them, and willing to experiment, you can get most of them to work, I've never experienced a serious plastic spill or burn with them, I've made a lot of baits, and never had a mold totally fail yet. The molds do develop some heat/age/stress cracks over time, but they stillwork.

[tylerd1994]

what i do with my frog, shad, and split tail grub from netcraft is just sit them upright and pour into them. the frog turns out the best