[docirv]

Okay, so I got the first step and have been able to pour some good single color senkos using the Del-Mart mold. I tried pouring some with a chartreuse tip by pouring a little bit down the sprue but it gave me more of a vein and hardly made it to the bottom at all. The plastic was hot, about 360 degrees. I waited a few seconds and then added the watermelon green for the remainder of the pour. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I did manage to catch my first bass on one of these yesterday. Thanks for all your input. You guys are great.

[Mercury]

I found that to do tips its easier with a pour pot.

Take the mold and stand it up fully. And have what ever color you want your tip to be is loaded into the pot.

(warning) dont add too much salt to this color or it wont come out of the pot.

WHen the put is at the right temp take your mold and keep it straight inline with the tip of the pot. Lift the handle and count from 1 - 4 seconds
and stop pouring. Give the mold a few seconds to cool.

Open it up and see if you have the tip the length you want it. If not use a second less or more depending on the size of the tip desired.

I pour the tips first in all mold cavitys, then follow up with the main color for the rest of the body.

You should end up with somthing like this.

[Pop]

If you are not putting much salt into the tip color because it won't come thru the pot, what are you pouring the main body with and how are you keeping it hot enough to pour? Thanks for your help, Pop

[docirv]

I do have a production pot but the mold will not stand straight up under the pour spout. In order to get it under the spout I have to angle the mold. Any other suggestions about this would be most appreciated.

[LJMLuke]

Docirv,

I pour all my senkos with different size Pyrex measuring cups. Why don't you get a small one just to pour your tips and use your pro pot for the bodies? I have poured tips with no veins, you just need a steady hand and you must have the mold straight. Then you can angle it under your pot to finish. I assumed you knew how to heat in a pyrex cup in the microwave. If not, look around there are a ton of posts in here that will explain it to you. Hope this helps!
Luke

[Mercury]

On the bottom of the production pots are 3 screws. This holds the bottom "foot" ot the rest of the body.

Remove the 3 screws, turn the foot around backwards and re-mount.

Now you will have to screw the foot to your work station to keep it standing up. Mount it so the pot is over the edge of the table so now you have plenty of room.

Pop I use a pyrex cup for the main body If I had 25% of my pot filled with salt it would clog the spout.

Ever use a lead pot and have spmthing get stuck in the spout? Makes a mess, then takes for ever to cool down so you can take it appart to clean it.

Same thing with a production pot. It wont spill all over the place, but it will make you take it apart and clean it.

[overkill]

why dont you just dip the tip in worm dye after making the worm. Seems like this would be the most easy. I have used Spike-it dye on very dark colors and it will still come out bright chartruese.

[Fireball Lures]

Also to add to what Cool Lures is saying, I found that you need to use transparent colors if not you will be wasting your time cause you will probably get the colors all mixed up higher on the bait, kind of like a string of color will be down one side of the bait. But using the pouring pots is the best way I know.


Nathan
Also if you guys get the bigger pots 24 ounce you will have no problem with clogs.