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  #21 (permalink)  
Old February 1st, 2007
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Re: Pouring using a Frydaddy

The continuing saga of Cal and the Frydaddy: I drilled hole in frydaddy. I couldn't find tap so I took it to a machine shop and they tapped it for me. Everything was looking good. I took the bottom of the frydaddy off and it was an old model that I couldn't make heads or tails out of. Threw it in the trash and bought a new frydaddy. This one I remove the bottom and find the screw for the thermostat. I heated frydaddy and it was too hot. I turned the screw to the left and things got hotter on the next attempt. I turned the screw to the right(way too far) and got it to heating up to 250 degrees. I am now in the process of getting the right temp, but it is do-able. When I get that accomplished I will drill another hole and take the frydaddy back to the machine shop to be tapped again (another $10). Oh well, I hope it will be worth the wait and the money.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old February 2nd, 2007
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Re: Pouring using a Frydaddy

Cal, if you get the pot I have ( 6 qt presto ) it comes with a dial that you can adjust that goes up to 400, I find I need to be almost full on to keep my plastic at 350, I get spikes so I turn the knob down a tad.
the pot your trying you have no control except to turn that screw, that would be fun with a bunch of hot plastic in it.
The 6 qt works well with only 4 cups of plastic in it as well. you just need to stir like all of them to keep the salt and flakes suspended.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old February 10th, 2007
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Re: Pouring using a Frydaddy

The saga continues with some success. I got the new pot, drilled the hole and had it tapped. I installed short (1 inch) nipple and ball valve. Cooking thermometer says plastic is 450 degrees while stirring with drill press.

Now the problem. The plastic is coming out slow even with the valve wide open. Every time you close the valve, you have to stick a 1/4 inch bolt in it to open the nipple up when you open the valve. The plastic doesn't seem real hot when it comes out. Any ideas??? It will pour senkos very well, but very slowly. I have not had any success pouring tubes with it.

Again, any ideas as to what I am doing wrong?

Thanks in advance to all you plastic gurus.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old February 10th, 2007
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Re: Pouring using a Frydaddy

Cal it sounds like your valve section is not getting hot enough. its you plastic hot? if it is give it about 15-20 mins to heat up the valve section.

just out of curiosity what is the valve section made of and how long is it from where it screws in to the very tip. if its longer than 2 inches your going to have a problem.
That valve section needs to be just as hot as the plastic itself in order for it to work properly.

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Old February 10th, 2007
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Re: Pouring using a Frydaddy

Well, hello Del. After reading all these posts I decided to take the plunge and save myself all the work of making one and ordered the pot from Ozark Tackle. What do you guys use for a stirrer to keep the salt and fleck from settling? I have been pouring with pyrex and microwaving the plastic.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old February 10th, 2007
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Re: Pouring using a Frydaddy

Del, here are the answers to your questions. I appreciate your help very much. The nipple is 1 inch long. The nipple and valve are brass. The valve is hot. I touched it. Mistake! I heat the plastic in the microwave until it is at a state that I normally pour (kinda like syrup, not molassis). While the plasic is heating, I plug in the converted frydaddy. Temperature was about 340 degrees when I placed heated plastic into frydaddy. I have a shortened paint stirrer hooked to a tabletop drillpress that is doing stirring at slowest speed. When thermometer gets to 350, I start to pour. I have to clear nipple with 1/4 inch bolt to start flow. Flow is slow with valve wide open.

Thanks for any help you might have.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old February 10th, 2007
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Re: Pouring using a Frydaddy

Whats up doc ( bet you never heard that one before

Cal
I am guessing you will need to make sure the valve is really hot ( like 340) well before you pour.
Also what kinda valve did you get? can you take a picture of it. would be nice to open it all the way out of the pot and take a pic also.
not all valves are created equal.
some valves when open have a restriction like tube size is 1/2 but the valve opening size is 1/4 inch then goes back to a tube size of 1/2/ this could be a problem.
a ball valve is best but I have only seen them in steel/stainless steel never brass. they have a opening of the same size as your tube that you would use.
Brass fittings are good as they heat up very fast, but at the same time they loose heat fast also. this would mainly be a problem in cold temps( I dont think its the problem)
you might want to try a steel fitting just for the heck of it.


one other thing you might want to try 3/8 or 1/2 pipe and valve as well. as 1/4" might be too small especially with a valve that has a smaller opening.

sounds like you got everything ok, now you just need to fine tune it. that might explain the slow flow.
one other thing taht might explain the slow flow is that you dont have enough plastic in it. the weight of the plastic will gravity feed out of the hole. more plastic more weight faster flow this is very critical on smaller openings.

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  #28 (permalink)  
Old February 10th, 2007
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Re: Pouring using a Frydaddy

Well, hell, I got some time on my hands so I bought a frydaddy, the 4 cup size. Now where should I drill the hole for the ball valve?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old February 11th, 2007
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Re: Pouring using a Frydaddy

Presto pots work better, they are bigger but you do not need to fill it,

Cal, also if the stirrer is to fast it could pull the plastic away from the pour hole ?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old February 11th, 2007
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Re: Pouring using a Frydaddy

Well I'm gonna try this! I told my wife and she said I couldn't use our Presto fryer, I had to buy another one

And Del, in Cal's pot I do know there are alot of brass ball valves. I put em in all the time at work.
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