[charkins]

I called the guy from Ozark. He said that his pot left about a cup and a half of plastic that could not be poured. It would have to be added to the next batch. Bassnfool, is this what you are getting?? I really only want to pour about two cups at a time.

[bassnfool]

I get about a cup and a half left over that I cut up into small cubes and remelt with my next batch of that color bait. In the long run there is zero waste.

[tad]

About how hot should the plastic be before starting to pour. On average how hot does plastic get before it starts to scorch? Thanks for any replies.

[charkins]

I try to get the plastic to about 350 degrees. Several factors determine at what temperature the plastic will scorch. How much heat stablizer and how much softner as well as other factors determine the temperature of scorching.

[Predator Bass Baits]

You can probably get away with 330 deg if pouring worms and such but if you want to pour the 2 piece frogs it will need to be 350 and maybe + you will know because the feet will not fill until it is hotter.
If you can pour a perfect bait at 300deg then do it.

[tad]

I'm pouring 3" to 5" curly tails and 3" to 4" shad bodies. All are 2 pc. molds. Thanks again for the replies.

[harley-cowboy]

OK... here is my 2 cents... First off for the guys trying the FRY DADDY... SCRAP THE IDEA and get a presto pot. Walmart sells them for about $22.
DO NOT DRILL the ball valve hole in the side.. It should go on the bottom as close to the heating coil as possible. I use 12 of these pots with great success. I use a 1/4" BRASS ball valve with a BRASS close nipple to secure it to the pot. I grind down the close nipple so it just fits flush to the bottom of the pot... NO WASTE either.
NOW.. you have to build something for it to set on.. EASY part. I also made the back part of the pot support higher (on an slope) so the plastic feed to the front where the valve is.
ALL my pots regulate the heat perfect. I heat at 400 setting and pour at 325. My valves NEVER clog either. DO NOT USE A BOLT or anything metal to clear the valve. It can damage the ball valve. I use a wooden dowel.
This pot is so easy to make and under $30. You do not need to be a mechanical engineer to do this. Takes about 15 minute and works from the get go.
If you are having problems.. EMAIL me and I will help you.
sinko@sinkobaits.com

[saint308]

Harley: Do you have to use something like a drill to continuosly stir the plastic. If so, what are you guys using? I am real interested in this idea. Thanks. Saint.

[wannabefishing]

i picked up said presto pot last week and am in the process of putting it together. picked up a motor off ebay for $15 (belt driven, but it had heatsinks for cooling- father in law picked it up can't tell you much more right now--- ebay did have a couple 100rpm gear motors for $15+ shipping too), the stand has been decided, location of the spout has been decided (on the side at the bottom) and then the rest of the setup for the stirrer is still being worked out... trying to make it so the motor/paddle will be hinged so it swings out of the way for easy cleaning... when it's done i'll post pics.

[Sinko Baits]

SAINT... Putting this together is so easy and takes about 15 minutes. I usually stir by hand with a big wooden spoon. BUT, I have adapted a hand mixer mounted on the top of my rack that holds the pot. I don't use the mixer blades but have adapted a plastic paint blade for the mixer. Works better than anything you can buy.
The most important thing in making it is drilling for the ball valve. I have it 1/16th of an inch away from the heating coils. The valve heats up and I do not usually have to ram the valve with my dowel. The heat liquifies the left over plastic in the valve and when I open the ball valve all the way...it runs out. When I am finished a job, I usually tilt the pot backwards and clear the valve anyhow. Then leave it open for the plastic (if there is any left) to cool.. SIMPLE
As I said.. I use 12 of these and they all perform FLAWLESS!