[rixon529]

So as not to highjack someone else’s thread, I’m starting a new one with some questions.
I’d like to get some clarification (or opinions) from those of you with experience.

It was recently stated: “Stabilizer is not needed when using a microwave.”
I was under the impression that stabilizer is
- a must for reheating of plastic (for us new guys who only pour into a 2-cavity mold and need to reheat a few times), or
- for getting the pouring temp higher for thinner plastic (like for little legs or thin tails).

Concerning the use of Pyrex cups it was suggested : “get the 2 cup capacity, the one cup capacities handle gets very hot!”
This raises a couple questions to me:
Isn’t there more manual control (i.e. better pouring control) using a smaller cup? And a greater degree of control is needed to pour into a 2-part mold to make sure you pour down the center.
I’m no kid and I can see my arthritic hands tiring easily using larger capacity and heavier glass cups - but I don’t want to get burned, either.

What (if anything) do you use for heat protection for your hands with hot Pyrex cups or aluminum pots?
Pot holder? Oven mitt? Welder’s glove? Ove glove?
Anybody use or tried one of the silicone cooking glove? Interesting concept…
http://www.reviewsonline.com/ihs03-flprint.htm

Thanks all.
Rick

[texasbass1]

I use stablizer to prevent fading when I reheat. I use a pot holder with my pyrex cups

[mickeyg]

I usually add a couple drops of stabilizer. I like to get the heat up a little higher for smoother flowing even if I am only using a 1-piece mold.

I've grown used to the 2-cup Pyrex cups. Maybe because there happened to be one available in the kitchen cabinet when I first started pouring

True the smaller Lure Craft pans are better for fine detail but I grow tired of reheating and cleaning them. Like to do stuff in larger batches if I can.

I bought 1 ove glove and then bought another a couple months later. I think they work great. I can keep them on and still unscrew Del's two piece molds and don't have to worry about burning my hands.

Mickey

[bassnfool]

When using a microwave, I use a 1 cup Pyrex cup. Once in a while the handle gets quite hot, but not often, and it cools down rapidly.

I've never felt that stabilizer was necessary.

The only issue for hand protection is when the aluminum molds get very hot. Rather than continuing pouring, I just set them aside to cool and find other things to do, ie: trim baits, bag baits, etc.

[nova]

I'm with you bassnfool. I don't use heat stabilizer. You just need to pay attention to your time and power settings. Heat from the handles is not that bad(everyone does not have the same sensitivity to heat) and if it gets too be too much I use the rag that I clean out the cups with but it's only for 1 pour then the handle cools enough.

Oh yes; you will burn yourself sooner or later. It's just a matter of when and how bad.

I pour with 1; 2; and 4 cup pyrex depending on the size of the order. Each one will heat differently and that is something that you have to experiment with so as to understand your own power settings and timing.

The one thing to remember is that no 2 people pour exactly alike and you have to take the "rules of thumb" and fine tune the rest to suit the way you pour. Also, it is a progressive thing. As time and your experience goes on you will discover little things about pouring. You have to remember this is an art form; and no 2 artists paint alike.

www.novalures.com

[jmik26]

I guess it really depends how many baits you are pouring, what colors your pour, and what detail you need.

If you are pouring 1/2 - 3/4 cup of plastic at a time I think a 1 cup pyrex would be fine. We tend to pour 1 - 1 1/2 cups at a time, so the 2 cup is necessary. In my experience if you maximize the capacity of the cup, the handle will get hot and a oven mitt or glove will be necessary, i.e. 1 cup pyrex and 1 cup of plastic. The 4 cup is great for making large batches that you want the color to be exactly the same. Make the large batch and then pour into smaller pyrex cups for easy pouring.

We started off not using heat stabilizer and found that some of our white color baits will discolor slightly after about 7-10 reheats. We followed the advice of some TU members and tried stabilizer and have not had that problem since then. I would have to say it did help.

Now, all that said I do agree with Nova. "The one thing to remember is that no 2 people pour exactly alike and you have to take the "rules of thumb" and fine tune the rest to suit the way you pour. Also, it is a progressive thing. As time and your experience goes on you will discover little things about pouring. You have to remember this is an art form; and no 2 artists paint alike."

So, I would pour the way that feels comfortable or cost effective to you. If you run into problems, resort to the information that is provided to help solve the problem on hand.

Just my opinion, hope it helps...Jeff

[sotoole]

Well said Jeff..... I totally agree., no one pours the same. I, for instance, pour for myself only. Because I don't sell to the general public... I pour all my baits VERY soft so they collapse easier when I'm setting the hook. It's just my preference. I catch more than 1 fish on a few baits but I pour my flukes so soft, I catch one fish per bait. Makes a difference in tournaments to me so I accept it. You'll develop your own style... I just starting dipping tubes (they look great but it takes me 2 1/2 hours - start to finish - to dip about 30 of them!!!) Imagine me selling these for a profit? Here's the ad: 10 pack of super soft tube baits.... $20 per pack! LOL It's an incredibly rewarding feeling catching fish on your own stuff though... enjoy it!

These guys are good! Ask away... they helped me sooooo much this past year.

- Shawn