[JPC]

If you have an air source, you can make your own fluid bed. I used PVC pipe, pipe fittings and a nylon reducing bushing , all purchased at the hardware store. The critical part is the porous polyethylene that acts as the bottom of the powder chamber and top of the air chamber. I found the stuff at www.smallparts.com. I used the .125 thickness. A 9.5" X 9.5" sheet costs $24.00. I used 2" pipe and dip one jig at a time. Use 4" pipe and dip several. A control valve on the air line allows for the release of the very small amount of air needed.

[Fat Ratz]

JPC, I asume if the fluid bed has a solid bottom then the porous polyethylene goes between the air flow and the bottom of the bed? I have not seen a fluid bed up close and not sure exactly how the bottom is constructed. Do you get good results with the fluid bed you made?

[cavu]

I have never seen that on a lure. Just a suggestion, make sure the lead is clean. Any silicon or oil will cause the paint to malfunction. Even if you don't hav ethe jig hot enough, you should get a complete coating on the jig that will be dull looking. When that happens, just put it back in the oven and lewt it heat up. The paint will flow out.

I just removed the container from my fluid bed and blew out the micro screen. I will see if this helps. If so, its going to be a lot of trouble keeping the thing cleaned out. I am working on an improvement to the small fluid bed to see if we can seal and remove the containers more easily. Let you al know how it comes out.

[Fat Ratz]

A question for you guys that have CSI fluid beds, have you looked at the vibratory motor that comes on these units? I am curious if it is a self contained motor(no motor shaft) or does it use it a offset weight on a shaft to make the unit vibrate. I am making myself a fluid bed and have found some small motors that go on vibrating rock tumblers that might work. It has got my curiosity up.

[dlaery]

It has a shaft.

[Fat Ratz]

dlaery,does it have a counter-weight on the shaft ?

[dlaery]

Yes, but I was trying to remember, I think it had a shaft coming out of each end with just a flat bar on one end for the counter weight, and another flat bar on the other end but not lined up the same as the other side, maybe 22 degrees, to throw it off balance. I'm not sure if that is right though.
It is a Lesson motor. I went to their web site but couldn't find any that looked like the one in my fluid bed.

[Master Baiter]

Just recieved my custom fluid bed and it works great!
I had mine built at 22 in x 12in and so far no problems.
I'm now working on trying to keep the paint off the hooks of spinner and buzz baits.
Aluminum foil works ok but messy and a lot of trouble.
would like to find high temp silicone tubing .experimenting with hitemp silicone pre hardin into lil strips to thread on hook

[topher]

I have had this problem before. It is all related to your temp, and how long you dip, how much air flow, etc... I also use some silicone molds thanks to George Kellar, this is not the problem.

My fluid bed is the single row type, and I have the same thing happen with the air coming through mostly at the far end. This is because of the air hitting the far side and getting forced up, it's like a dam. the air shoots in and hits wall.... it's hard to explain, but this is not as big of a factor.

I have explained my process in the fluid bed faq and answers forum.

Chris

[dlaery]

I noticed you made a comment about silicone molds. I have a batch of silicone (blue) that powder paints fine. I have a newer batch of silicone from same company that looks different. It doesn't absorb heat as much as the old batch, so my parts don't freeze as fast, takes a little longer spin time, and that batch of silicone does not powder paint very well, it "fish eyes" real bad, no pun intended. I called the company about the new batch of silicone, well its a new formulation and its better! It is softer in the unvulcanized form and I like it for the most part, BUT it fish eyes.
I have taken parts from aluminum molds and from the old batch of silicone and have no problems with fish eye, except the pin holes. I commented on another post that I powder painted some black, and had trouble with pin holes, and I was able to do some good parts, and no fish eye. Those parts were made with a gray mold and the old batch of blue.
These molds came from TekCast. I have looked at Contenti and Romanoff, but I don't know if they will be any different. Do you or anyone else have an opinion of these companies?