[Shortlite]

Hi guys.
I am in the process of designing a jighead to suit UL and L tackle saltwater angling, using heavier gauge Aberdeen style hooks.

I figure I'll have to customize a mold to accept the slightly heavier gauge wire, or have a mold custom made. In addition, I want to have a "holder" style keeper setup (I think that's what it's called), which is the sharp cone. Preferably 2 or 3 cones on the shaft. I find this style of keeper holds soft plastic lures best. It's like the LunkerGrip cones on lunker city jigheads, or what you see on annular ring roofing nails.

Problem is no molds I have seen available employ this style of keeper. Now, I have my design sketched out, and with basic dimensions. Dimensions will be tweaked to give the size leadheads I want.

Appreciate any help you can give.

Best regards,
Ted..

PS. I am in Australia..

[heavycover]

Call this guy:

Chuck Vanover
Tight Line Anglers Products
PH. 440-277-1511
Fax 440-277-9152

[Shortlite]

Thanks heavycover. Any other options? Would it be possible to make a mold to do some rough casts to tweak the design? So far it's the keeper that's proving the main problem. It just seems that not many jigheads use that style of keeper much.

[heavycover]

Chuck will design the mold exactly to your specs. Only after you approve will the final production mold be built.

[kelly]

A dremel tipped on its side (45) with a cylinder cutting tip will cut the keepers. But if you want to sell them take heavycover advice. I have had a lot of luck customizing molds. Good luck.

[Shortlite]

Thanks for that. Which cutting tip is that? Is it the little one like a dovetail cutting bit? I have a pointed cone bit, but I think that's just the pointed engraving bit. I guess I could just start shallow and make the cuts a bit deeper until I get a good depth and even keeper height.

At this stage I don't think I'll be selling them. Fishing UL in the salt really kicks your arse as far as attrition to your jighead box. The better jigs here are available on Gamakatsu hooks, which are a bit big for some lures. They also cost nearly 2 dollars per jighead (9 bucks for a pack of 5). I got some really good, smaller hooks and want to cast my own.

[sagacious]

If you're not going to sell them, the modifications you're describing (increasing the hook channel for a heavier wire hook, and adding keeper rings to the jig collar), are all easily done by hand with simple tools.

A variable-speed hand drill with the appropriate-size bit will cut the hook channel, and as noted by others, a dremel with a cylinder cutting tip will cut the keepers. Go slow and plan-out your work before cutting.

Good luck!

[Shortlite]

Thanks again. What Dremel bit is the one you guys are recommending? If you could give me a model number I would be greatly thankful.

Anyone have experience using the bits to open out the cavities to change head shape? I would be looking to shift the hook position forward in the lead also. My design is not a standard shape, nor does my target weights fall into standard sizes. The hooks I have are also just a little different from your regular Aberdeen.

At this rate, custom I know can deliver, but the additonal expense is quite high. If there was an easy way to make a mold for casting lead, then I would try that. Maybe I should just let the bloomin' cat out of the bag and put up a sketch, hook (with sizes), desired weights and basic design ideas so we can all brainstorm about it.

[sagacious]

Originally Posted by Shortlite

Thanks again. What Dremel bit is the one you guys are recommending? If you could give me a model number I would be greatly thankful.

That bit should be available at any hardware store that carries dremel accessories. You're familiar with the pointed engraving bit-- this one isn't pointed, it's just a cylinder. You can't miss it.

If your store needs to order it, check the dremel website, and you should be able to find the bit you need.

Anyone have experience using the bits to open out the cavities to change head shape? I would be looking to shift the hook position forward in the lead also. My design is not a standard shape, nor does my target weights fall into standard sizes. The hooks I have are also just a little different from your regular Aberdeen.

There's no mold available in the shape/size/weight you want? Your project will require an investment of time and resources, so before you start, be sure you're not trying to re-invent the wheel.

I believe others have modified the cavity shape with a dremel tool, but I have not attempted this. That is a task that requires considerable planning, patience, and skill, and runs the risk of damaging/ruining your design-- or the mold itself. If the cavity requires quite a bit of modification, it's often less work to just make a separate mold.

At this rate, custom I know can deliver, but the additonal expense is quite high. If there was an easy way to make a mold for casting lead, then I would try that. Maybe I should just let the bloomin' cat out of the bag and put up a sketch, hook (with sizes), desired weights and basic design ideas so we can all brainstorm about it.

Opening the hook channel and cutting 'keepers' is simple, but it seems that you have a considerable amount of mold modification in mind. If you're not experienced with mold design or modification, you may want to do just that-- post some sketches and you'll get more accurate advice. At this point, all we can do is just guess at basic design considerations, such as if your design is feasible at all.

[cadman]

Shortlite.
Sagacious and others are right on here. Here is some advice if you intend on doing this yourself. I have modified a lot of molds. However I am a designer, and I use (3) cad packages to design. The reason I’m stating this is this. This is how I go about modifying molds. You have to think this whole process through. #1. Layout the details you want to modify on a piece of paper drawing it 1:1 scale (I draw on a computer). This has to be accurate, as you will need to transfer this image to both mold halves. If you are going to do this to multiple cavities, and they are different sizes, then you need to take scaling as a factor, if you want to keep everything proportional. #2. Once you have it drawn, place your drawing over your cavity and trace it out carefully. I use dye chem. (a blue transfer ink) on the mold, and use an exacto blade to trace. The exacto blade will scratch the dye chem. And leave you a clean visible line. #3. You now can transfer this image to the other half of the mold, by previously etching locating points on both mold halves. #4. Once you have your details transferred, I personally use a utility knife and hobby files for detailed work and a dremel to hog out cavities for hook eyes, swivels and any other features that do not need fine detail. The reason I don’t use a dremel for everything is this. Dremel tools have a tendency to wander, especially if you catch an existing corner. Even with a steady hand, you can screw up a mold (but there is fixes for fk ups also, it’s called J B Weld). You’re now done. Some things to note. a) Check your cutting regularly. b) Check your dimension regularly. c) Make sure everything is aligned and on center. d) Check your fit regularly with the mold closed. e) Lastly take your time…. Finally, all of this seems like a lot of work, yes it is. The question you have to ask yourself, like lot of the responses you got here. Are you doing this to try to learn how to modify molds, and quality isn’t that big of a deal? Or do you intend on selling these after you are done? If they are easy details to cut go for it. In the long run it’s cheaper to have a custom shop make you a mold, as they can easily scale different size cavities once the initial profile is done, and the accuracy is second to none. Just some of my past experience and my worth. Ted (Cadman)