[Javelin]

Flux is something that you add to your lead when it is melted to remove the impurities. Some use bees wax or something like Frankfort Arsenal lead cleaner . I've heard of others using sawdust and stirring it around in the melted lead then skimming off the impurities off the top of the melted lead.

[Big-D]

I was under the impression that "Flux" was something to make the lead
"flow" better.

[hawnjigs]

UG, if you use the "Search" toolbar I remember seeing some excellent member contributions explaining flux and fluxing. Its a valuable tool and I find that beeswax works best for me. Found some beeswax candles cheap at a garage sale.

[sagacious]

Originally Posted by Uncle Grump

Err...'scuse a Newbie question here....but what is flux and how does one do it to lead?
Thanks

UG

No worries-- you don't learn unless you ask.

Fluxing is fairly simple. It's done to remove oxides, some impurities, and to re-combine the oxidised tin back into the melt. This conserves lead, reduces dross and oxide formation, helps reduce the likelyhood of incomplete pours, and makes fluxing easier.

Briefly: Before pouring (or pouring ingots), you add a small quantity of fluxing material (say, about a teaspoon or less) to your pot of lead. If you use wax, it will quickly melt. Stir it into the lead as much as possible, taking care to scrape the edges of the pot. Use caution, and use a long-handled spoon, since the wax will usually catch fire and flame-up for a short time. Keep stirring and you'll see a bunch of black dust and crud floating on the lead. Skim that off, and you're set to begin your pouring session.

What you won't see is the tin and lead that have been returned to the melt-- and that's good. Pouring will go smoother and easier. If you don't flux, and you just skim off all that frothy lead scum floating on the molten lead, you're probably removing much of the tin component of the lead alloy-- and that's bad. Plus, you're just wasting good lead that could have been recombined with the melt, and also making your pouring more problematic.

As others have noted, it's best to do a search, as some folks have spent considerable time typing out some very helpful info on fluxing, and you'll benefit if you take the time to read what's been written.

Good luck, and be safe!

[sagacious]

Originally Posted by sagacious

...
helps reduce the likelyhood of incomplete pours, and makes fluxing easier.
...

Sorry, meant to say:
makes pouring easier.

[hawnjigs]

This has been mentioned by others, but want to add that my tool of choice for stirring flux and skimming dross in a small batch melt is the small quarter(coin) size cup Lee ladle with the wooden handle. Also want to suggest avoiding plastic handle tools around hot lead.

[Basseducer]

hawnjigs,
I also use one of those small ladles, but I drilled 1/8 inch hole in the bottom. Now when I scoop the crud I let the good lead drip back into the pot and all that is left in the ladle is the crud. Works great.

TJ

[hawnjigs]

TJ, huh, now theres an idea. A drain hole or few might be especially useful when skimming wheel weight clips with a larger ladle.

[Basseducer]

Yeah, it works great for that as well. You do have to get the ladle hot or it won't flow.

TJ

[sagacious]

Good stuff here, guys!

I use two spoons. The first is a long-handled 'serving' spoon that works well for stirring the melt, as well as light skimming chores. The wide blade skims the crud off the surface quickly, and it takes up very little space on my pouring bench.

The second is a large long-handled slotted spoon that is secured to an 18" piece of hickory with a stainless hose clamp. It works exceptionally well for removing clips and dross when melting down tire weights or scrap lead. The wooden handle offers good grip even with gloves on, and always stays plenty cool. The longer handle also comes in handy when fluxing a large pot of tire weight lead with a bit too much wax, and the melt flames up a little more than usual! I got both spoons at a local thrift store.