[Basseducer]

Javelin,
I had the same problem with mine. I tried everything plus smoking the cavities and shaving the rear of the cavity. I wrote to Do-It and they suggested turning the temp down and slowing the rate of pour all while using SOFT lead. Well I guess my lead wasn't soft enough and I still got bad pours. I sent them the mold and a couple of incomplete pours. They sent it back with some complete pours and again suggested soft lead. So I got me a small melting pot and some soft pure lead, haven't had a problem since. I ladel pour my spinnerbaits. Hope this helps.

[cadman]

OK, here's a secret for all of you lead guys that I use to solve this problem when I pour the Ultra-Minnow spinnerbait mold. Now it won't be a secret any more. If you've tried everything under the sun to remedy this and it doesn't work do this. Take a piece of hi-temp teflon tape, (paper will work, but you have to tape it or it will fall out, and the tape may not withstand the heat) that's why I use hi-temp tape. Cut a small piece of tape about 1" roll size x 1". Take the tape and stick it to the inside of 1/2 of the mold, by the cavity that you are going to pour. Once you have the tape in place, close the mold and do some test pours. What this process with the tape does, it opens up both mold halves by let's say .005 of an inch. This lets more air into the cavity, which will let the lead flow and fill complete. You're now going to say, well that's fine, but am I going to get flash. The answer is yes there will be a minimal amout of flash, which is easily taken off with a file. You are now going to say, welll that's an extra step. Yes it is but think of it this way. If you can get perfect pours with the above process with a little flash, isn't that better, than pouring 10 bad ones, re-melting it and re-pouring it again, and hoping the next one will pour good? To me this is more than a justified solution. Just like everyone else here, I try to find solutions to a lot of problems, and sometimes the solution isn't exactly what we want. Remember, that the closer you put the tape to the hinge, the bigger gap you will get between mold halves. If one piece of tape is not enough, stack on another, until you get complete pours with minimal flash. This does work. I have to do this to the bigger of the two spinnerbait molds I have. If you need more help, ask, and I will try to explain better with pics, or PM me. I hope this solves your dilemma. BTW, I use a Palmer Hot Pot and a Lee #4 bottom pour pot. The Palmer Hot Pot works better for spinnerbaits. I use a 50/50 mix, and I rarely if ever get bad pours this way.

[Javelin]

Well you shouldn't have to go to all that work just to get a spinnerbait head. All that filing and trimming......that's for the birds. That mold should be improved by do-it or discontinued. I have poured probably 1500 heads using it and am getting arthritis in my hands from all the extra trimming and filing. The spruee area is too large too.

[Fatman]

Javelin

I've got the Lee Pot IV with bottom pour and I know the 4/20 has the micro adjustable flow control valve that can be fine-tuned with a screwdriver but I think that's your problem, if it's dripping and you're not getting that drip on the edge of the mold that drip is going in a sprue which is going to mess up your head or collar. Plus if that drip is hitting the bottom plate of the pot stand it's splattering which isn't good.

I just poured 200 pony head jigs Sunday night in three sizes and didn't get a single incomplete head or collar and I was using tire weight lead down to 1/32 oz.

Are you fluxing your lead?? You really want the lead to stream out as you lift the handle to open the bottom spout. I don't smoke my molds at all I just pour a bunch of blanks (no hook or swivel) until the mold heats up.

Just my

Fatman

[Javelin]

I didn't know know that you could fine fine tune the pour spout. I thought the flow was controlled by the flow control screw on the right, either turning it clockwise for less flow, and counterclockwise for more flow. As for fluxing my lead, I drop a few small wax pellets in it and stir it around a couple times and skim off the top.

[JSC]

Javelin
"As for fluxing my lead, I drop a few small wax pellets in it and stir it around a couple times and skim off the top."

Are You getting a "Burn" after dropping in the wax pellets ? If not You need to set the fumes a Flame & stir. (accordeing to recent thread ... I thought I was Fluxing for years until I found that you need to get a burn and stir)
Hope this might help
JSC

[Javelin]

Are you talking about letting it burn off completely, form a black layer on the top, then stir the lead around several times and then scoop off the top?

[JSC]

Yep ... but if you can stir while burning is even better ..

JSC

[cadman]

Originally Posted by Javelin

Well you shouldn't have to go to all that work just to get a spinnerbait head. All that filing and trimming......that's for the birds. That mold should be improved by do-it or discontinued. I have poured probably 1500 heads using it and am getting arthritis in my hands from all the extra trimming and filing. The spruee area is too large too.

I totally agree with you on this. If I recall correctly, everyone that posted about that mold in the past had some modifications that needed to be made to it to make it pour correctly. You are right this should be corrected in production. I know everyone's answer is to use really soft lead. Although it's a quick fix, but when you use pure soft lead, the soft lead compromises the paint characteristics. Paint will crack faster with soft lead, becuse it dents or gives more. Take a 1 oz jig of pure soft lead, and drop it on concrete. Do the same to a 50/50 mix, and see what happens. Although this may seem extreme, it is still better to modify the mold to get good pours, and use a 50/50 mix. Just my worth.