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when saving left overs .... keep 4 different bags or containers 1-- blacks - when remelting add black color 2-- greens- when remelting add green pumpkin color 3- browns- when remelting add your favorite brown -- Pumpkin -- 4- purples / reds - when remelting add purple then you can have 4 different colors of remelts not just 1 also I do not save any pearls or whites ,, - white will yellow on to many remelts .. pearls add a pearl look to the batch of any color,, I do not like it.. but that's just me .

Thanks guys for your insight and opinions. i like the tubing idea for a test spacer to see if I can get the blade rotation to start and hold up. I was thinking along the lines of using a thread ball and changing its position on the shaft to get this figured out. If that works I will use a thread ball and a heavy chenille yarn ball winding and add scent to it as an added attractant. The two blade upper wire is definitely an awesome rebuild idea. I will post my results once I get a chance to get back to these. As always you guys and this site are top notch.Can't say enough about being able to be a part of it as a member and hopefully contribute to this great hobby addition. Cheers.

I have about 600 of 4/0 and 5/0 if any one is looking for some

Worm oil is a plasticizer (a lot are DINP, some could be DOA, DINCH etc) and are already present in the plastic (It is how PVC resin is softened to make the final product squishy and not hard as a rock like your standard PVC pipe) Either way you will have zero issue remelting it. Too much of it and it will act as a plasticizer.

Get everything thing spinning and you will catch pike. Honestly even with one blade spinning pike will eat it lol If you are thinking a version for shallow water large thin Colorado style will work well. They will keep the weight down and provide some lift..Just the first thing that crosses my mind with that style of lure Good luck

Smalljaw. I certainly will. I mainly target pike so build my baits with1/2oz 5/8 and 3/4 oz heads to stabilize the larger blades that I like to use. 7,6,5's. It will be interesting to see how everything turns out with this style head.If it works I will also try to down size the blades and wire frame for shallower fishing and a different fish chasing bait presentation. Starting holidays tomorrow for a month so lots of time building/finishing and yes even fishing. Correction on the previous note : should read hobby addiction. Thanks again for your continued support and for doing so many great videos. I have learned a ton of stuff from your efforts and you have advanced my building style/comfort level immensely. Thanks to all whom endlessly contribute to the betterment of this craft and great site.

I honestly hope you do post your results!! By doing that it will help us all, that way we know for certain that it was the body causing the blade not to spin. I'm 99% sure it is the body but there may be a different reason, I'd also like to hear the results if you get to fish with it.

Worm oil is mso and used in scents, softeners, and is a by product of plastisol.( that's what I have been told)You shouldn't have any problems remelting it.

I already see the problem and Hillbilly voodoo caught it. The blade on the lower wire is too close to the body and it may have to be moved to the upper wire. What is happening is the size of the body is breaking up the water flow behind the blade, look at a Musky bucktail and you'll notice how the spacers keep the blades toward the front, this is done to allow the blades to start faster and spin at slower speeds. When you retrieve the bait the force of the water flowing over the cupped side of the blade causes it to lift and swing around wire. Well on your bait the water is flowing over the blade but the body being too close disrupts the flow of water keeping the blade from fully rotating. Judging from the picture and looking at the size of the blades I would thing that you need to space that blade very close to the front of the wire for it to work. I'm guessing that you would need enough beads or other spacers that there would be about 1/8" of play between the end of the wire and the front bead. If that would work you would have an interesting design, I would add another blade to the upper wire so you'd have the single blade spinning on the lower wire and a double blade on the upper wire. It will look and sound like no other bait of that type and could really catch some fish, I know I'd try it.

Same here - I keep all old stuff / used stuff / etc in a plastic bag and melt it down when I'm testing out a new mold to aviod wasting new plastic - this way if I waste it or whatever who cares. It is comical though no matter how may colors you mix you always get brown in the end! J.

We did a special order for them but we decided not to re-order. I do not now if Eagle Claw still making them. As for comparing them to the 32786 they really do not compare. The 32786 is a 60 degree hook and the 635 is a 90 degree hook so the are usually not interchangeable. Jon Barlow