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If you are drilling to install hook hangers and tie points try pouring them into your blank. Saves time and easier to make them secure just something to consider

Thanks for the input guys, I think I have it sussed now after a good few tests, it would appear that after a number of holes are drilled the problem occurs, this would suggest to me that it's the drill bit getting hot and melting the resin that I am seeing, I will however keep an eye on it! The blanks seem solid right through, put it this way I wouldn't be snapping one lol Andy.

I see a constant in that the colors you list are translucent or slight bleed very little colorant in both. How I've mixed when creating a new color is a process of starting with a mix I already have a recipe for that's similar so I already have a base. If you don't have a base mix recipe then the best way to start is minimal colorant and work up. I start with the same amount each time 8 oz. I keep a mold handy of the configuration I'm making the color for so that with each additional color or drops I add I mix and will pour out a sample in the correct mold so I can see what I need to see. Yes it is trial and error but it's controlled so the error possibility goes down and in the process you'll find that along the way you may create another color you'll want to use later and you'll have the recipe.

The only drawback to both is they will hard pack pretty severely. A buddy gave me a gallon of bounce he had for a couple years and there was literally an inch of hard pack on the bottom.

use a metal scribing tool scribing new air tunnels in aluminium mold - YouTube

Think its a custom spincast head of his. Allen

If you make as many lures as I do in a year I doubt you could do any better. Wood is an imperfect medium. I have more bad lures on my shop floor than most guys have ever had lures in their tackle bag.

Yon need to add florescent/bright colors to cold, raw plastic then heat up to the 350° mark. Those colors almost always cause problems when added to hot plastic.

lay side down then put something flat on other flat side measure distance between, half what the distance is your center easiest way to do it now is use an adjustable square, set it to the center measurement and put a pencil/pen and run it top and bottom. My .02

The only thing I can think off is with the traditional buzzbait (top lure) the frog will sit a bit lower in the water than the inline. This may get a few more strikes from fish hesitant to break the surface. Some people say inline buzzbaits get on plane faster but I haven't notice a difference with a frog on it. In pike and musky country, the inline is easier to fish with a leader. You will have to put surgical tubing over the R bend on a traditional bait or the leader snap could slide up or down the arm. I don't like to change blades on a traditional buzzbait. Before I put the rivet on, I scuff the top of the rivet with sandpaper. After I put the rivet on, I crush the tube part of the rivet with needle nose pliers so the rivet won't spin with blade. The blade spinning on the roughed up rivet top makes a good squeal.