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Just a clarification, Clear Bags is a USA based company but all of their bags are manufactured in China.

I don’t know why they are not more common amongst lure makers because the knock off rough edges way faster then hand sanding. You still need to get the final steps with hand sanding for a smooth finish I also use it to create concaved surfaces on lipless crankbaits, jerk baits, and plugs Very versatile tool for shaping, very handy for curves, and a time saver

I'm getting one of those. I use an old cabinet makers file for shaping cork handles...and never really thought about using it on lures.

Watch and listen to what this guy does in this video. He loves to talk, his technique is at the 22:50 mark. Hope this helps. Good luck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aglkJ1BO-nQ

Thanks for the answer

Not really. The ports on the lam block are small and the seal not so good. Mold would prolly draw air as opposed to plastic. Dinkmaster’s got you covered.

Thanks I will try your suggestions tomorrow Wouldn’t the laminating block also work like a spur extension?

Lower the temperature of your plastic. About 320* Hold pressure for only 10 seconds. Make sure the sprue has not harden or sealed up. Top off sprue with hot plastic from your injector and or cup. Get a Sprue Extender. Sprue Extender gives large cavity molds additional hot plastic to draw from as the mold cools.

Cut lip slot, drill all holes with the blank square. How I basically approach it,

Oh and a tip for the future cut your lip slot first thing. It’s easier to cut straight when the wood still has flat sides and if you mess it up you have not lost any time shaping the body.

Looks good so far! Keep it up. Don't be discouraged if you make a lure and it totally is a flop. We have all been there. Just give it a try, don't overthink your first lures. The tough part of a diving crankbait is getting the lip slot to be perpendicular to the wood so it dives true. I like to cut that slip slot while i have flat sides. You will have to kind eyeball where to put the lip. At this point I would take some 80 or 120 grit or so and sand it to the shape you like it. Maybe finish off with 220 or so. Then cut the lip slot/put wire in and weight (it will most likely need a bit of weight to give it a ballast). Once all the hardware is in, I would seal the wood one way or another. It helps keep any moisture out, but really it can help the overall appearance of your lure. There are tons of methods - polycrylic, polyurethane, superglue, epoxy are a few. Size and shape of the diving lip will be tricky to if you want to make a unique lure. Honestly, copy one of your favorites to start. It will give you a feel for how it works. Then you can start making the same kinda lure and try different size or shapes or angles, there are many options. You can learn a lot from the ones you fail at too! There is tons to talk about - keep asking questions.