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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/30/2022 in all areas

  1. There are a lot of good spinnerbaits out there right now. For me, a good spinnerbait should perform the duty it is meant to do. For example, if you have a spinnerbait mean for burning then it should do that well. That means it should be able to handle high speeds without rolling over or leaning heavily to one side. If it is a slow rolling model, then the blade should spin at very slow speeds without causing much lift. I should be able to crank that lure at least 10 times or more before having to pause slightly for the bait to get back down. An "all-purpose" type bait should be stable at moderate speeds and the blades should spin at relatively slow speeds. Good components, and doing its intended job is what makes a spinnerbait good. If it does all of those things and if used in the correct situation, a good spinnerbait will always catch fish.
    3 points
  2. When a spinnerbait leans to the side at high speed it is due to a large blade. The faster the bait is retrieved the faster the blade turns and the more torque it creates. Smaller blades on a heavier head will allow you higher speeds without as much force pulling it over to one side. I'm using willow leaf blades as an example here. A typical 1/2oz spinnerbait usually has size #5 or #6 blades, that makes a good "all-purpose" bait. You can slow roll it in shallow water or work it at a moderate pace in the middle of the water column. That spinnerbait is a jack of all trades and master of none but they have a purpose. The larger blades create a lot of flash, so it is a good stained water spinnerbait. In clear water I love burning a spinnerbait, especially for smallmouth. In order to do that I use a 1/2oz head with a single size #4, you can burn that with little to no lean. It is even better if you use a shallow cupped blade.
    2 points
  3. When using beads made of glass and or plastic on larger inlines with blades #5 and larger, casting pressure and impact shock tends to crack glass beads occasionally. Plastic as a bearing bead will work for a while but eventually wear out do to the weight imparted pressure of the blade hitting the water and then slamming back towards the back of the lure upon retrieval. Yes everyone has there preferences but to me a solid brass bead , gold or nickel plated provides the best bearing surface for longevity and performance. If you go to a hollow bead for a lighter or smaller lure the wear factor shortens the durability and life of the lure. When I throw larger inline spinners using # 28 sonic or panther martin type blade , no clevis is required as the shaft runs through the blade and rotates around the shaft on a solid bearing bead in front of a poured lead body, the brass bead bearing behind the blade actually distorts the lead from the pressure and impact from casting and retrieval. Every spinner requires a balanced assortment of components in order for it to work properly that's what makes making your own so challenging and rewarding.
    1 point
  4. I think a feathered rear treble would help it get bitten.
    1 point
  5. Yes they do. I traded a 4" heart throb hula grub mold for some crappie molds about a month ago only because i wasn't using it. It was like every other mold i have from Josh & it was outstanding. Ain't going wrong with angling ai for sure.
    1 point
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