Leaderboard

First what type of coating are you using? Second, I don't think leaving the lures in front of a fan is necessary I think all you are doing is fanning the lure with humid air just heat with a heat gun, flame, hair dryer. I use Etex for my final 2 coats. At times I thin my Etex with denatured alcohol when humid in my basement during summer in the winter not needed humidity down to 35%. Hair dryer for Createx coating flame or heat gun, depends on size of lures, I make mostly Musky lures which I coat with Etex and smaller 6" and under I use KBS. Wayne

I have tub tested the printed with foamed PLA and the baits do have a more lively action. I have printed a whole bunch with luck I can field test them sooner than later. My gut tells me they should be fine since the surface finish is sort of rough it bond better to screw eyes and lips. Speaking of lips, I spent the time remodeling the lip since I had a couple of broken lips in the first batch. The lip now look more like a commercial injected molded body. At the body the lip is 2.8-3 mm instead of 2mm. But it tapers to less than 1mm at the leading edge. I also made the lip and corresponding slot "Keyed" so the lip is always centered and straight.

I use 2ton epoxy for securing lips in the slop on baits but I think 5min should be ok. I do a little more than "scuff up" the lip though. I do scuff it up with some sand paper but I also use a dremel with the small ball tip and ball tip out some groves on both sides of the lip for a key to lock it in. This is on wood baits and the slots are usually sealed with D2T. Since your baits are resin it might be a good idea to scuff/key up the slot too. I use the same method for both polycarbonate and fiber(circuit board) lips. Also, you may want to reconsider "really tight" lip slots. You may be scraping the glue off and it puts a load on your resin. I always try and maintain the back side and the top of the lip slot perfectly if possible. I have repaired broken lip slots on commercial wake baits for friends by using a hack saw blade down the front of the lip all the way to the top of the lip slot. Then I just push the bottom of the lip to break it free. That way I maintain the back and top of the lip slot making it easy to position the new lip as I epoxy it in using tooth picks at the front of the slot to hold it against the back and top of the slot while the epoxy hardens.

if its running off its normally crooked lip.or check the pull wire if its beyond 1 inch from pull wire to end of lip normally its an issue.

Kinda feels like I'm showing you my underwear here...but this is what I'm thinking. How would you work lip location to avoid interfering with the front hook? I saw a video from he engineered angler where he figured angling the front and rear line tie and hook hanger helps with overall strength.

Why the angled line tie? Personally I would ditch the upward line tie location. First most joint points, will end up being top and bottom of the segment so just makes thing easier with the line tie straight. I also predrill with things square so really easy to get a vertical line tie and horizontal hook hangers. I also try putting as much wood above and below the line tie as possible for strength. Probably not an issue as we get caught up in design principles with no regard to real world applications.

I would be checking line tie first Next float it in a clear container of water and check if it’s properly balanced odds one of the above is the issue

Weight placement is my bet, I am guessing the bait it is wood, that would leave me to believe that you don't have enough weight or not perfectly inline. Guessing what's wrong without seeing it is quite difficult.