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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/18/2021 in Posts

  1. Here is a gill detail I came up with ( at least have not seen before ) , I am making a top water and flat sided crankbait and will be layering a light color next to collar and darker on top for contrast . Think this will be cool detail
    3 points
  2. If one person was always right he/she would own the fishing industry, but that is not the case!! We all have had great years followed by not so great years.... as conditions change from year to year so does the fishing.
    3 points
  3. Like most opinion pieces put out by fisherman I believe some of it holds merit but a lot of it is just opinion biased on his fishing style My opinion attraction is based on flicker/flash, noise/vibration and overall visibility true triggering traits are that show weakness/opportunity or create the fish to fear a loss of opportunity. Weakness is a pause, fall, or small twitch showing struggles to move. Drawing on a now or never response is a long pull/jerk, variation in speed and veering to the side Above is the main factors I consider when creating a lure and what I choose to
    3 points
  4. Here is my first attempt , not the most symmetrical . Next time I will glue the two ends of gills before putting in place . Turned out pretty cool , Thanks guys More pics in galley
    3 points
  5. I worked pretty good and actually has a nice side to side on the twitch before it does a nose dive. Ended up with 16 smaller walleye/pike and lost one pike in the mid teens beside the kayak. Had the drag too tight and he hit right next to the kayak only took pics of the first pike and walleye because none were anything special
    3 points
  6. Welcome to TU. You are looking for a unicorn that most of us searched for at one time or another. I tried a lot, and I mean a lot of ball bearing swivels over the years. What I found was there are two brands that are great and the rest not so much. Worth ball bearing swivels and Sampo, the Sampo are the most expensive but you can get the Worth for half that, even less if you order in bulk. If you aren't going to use one of those options then you may want to try roller swivels. They are a step below the ball bearing swivel but way better than crane and barrel swivels. The best part is you can g
    2 points
  7. Shawn Collins custom molds…maybe. Bob La Londa CNC molds and stuff…maybe.
    2 points
  8. I have an old school one..... 4 ounces of plastic 7 drops Strawberry Red 3 drops Black Grape Both Lure Craft colors It was a winner every time in my book!
    2 points
  9. Im sure woman can cast just as men can.
    2 points
  10. Base color has everything to do with the end effect. I have a bunch of colorshift powders. You can mix them with a transparent base, clear top coat, or brush them on. As for where you get them, there are a ton of different vendors out there. I recently purchased a bunch off of an etsy store, amazon, ebay, dipyourcar, custompaintingpearls are all viable options. In my experience, you get the most dramatic effects over a black base but some of the lighter powders also a do a great job adding a subtle shift when over white, white pearl or other lighter shades. You just have to do some exper
    2 points
  11. My opinion on the matter is that attraction and triggering often time go hand in hand. One of the best examples I can think of are with big glide baits thrown in clear water. These big baits have a lot of "drawing power" with those slow, wide movements bringing in fish from a long distance away- I have had instances where I can see a fish close on the bait from maybe 10-15 feet away, get right on the tail of the bait and follow it all the way to the boat before turning away. Obviously this fish was attracted to the lure but didn't commit. This is where the triggering part comes into pl
    2 points
  12. I did not watch the video, but Mr. Hannon was known as a pretty smart feller. The terms attraction and trigger are not new for sure and I do believe that they have a great deal of merit. Larry Dahlberg was known to use the terms frequently on his show "Hunt for Big Fish", and his presence in the Salt Water Hall of Fame, and the Freshwater Hall of fame lend him credence. Still, opinion is opinion and until we can hold a conversation with fish, we will never know. Hillbilly has explained the various attractions and triggers pretty much like I view them. Anecdotal observations
    2 points
  13. You have to use the STS out of it method
    2 points
  14. It may help to strain it through a piece of nylon hosiery.
    2 points
  15. The fish are the most important critics I always look at multiple things for a successful test. How often does it fowl? because it doesn’t matter how well catches fish if it’s tangled 90% of the time how are the fish hitting it? If your getting poor hook ups and light bites it needs adjust And most important does it produce as well or better then other lures proven effective in that body of water. Really who wants to toss a meh lure all day when there is better options This design is showing promise. The fish were Tboneing it hard with good hook ups. I threw another
    2 points
  16. Well I have one finished and off to the lake to test it on pike. May need to adjust rear hook location
    2 points
  17. Aside from the 90 degree hooks which seem to match up to the EC 570 you can tell by the number. The 10786 is equivalent to the Mustad 32786. The 10798 is equivalent to the Mustad 32798. If the number starts with a 10 it is a round bend, if it begins with 11 it is a V-Loc or sickle style. All you need to do is go to their website or Barlow's Tackle, Barlow's has the hooks categorized into 90 degree fine and heavy, 60 degree, 30 degree, and flat eye which makes it easy to find what you need.
    2 points
  18. Funny, we talk all the time about the dangers of just pouring soft plastics, and now we are talking about using chemicals that make plastisol seem like distilled water. Are people just massively overstating the problems with plastisol, or are we understating the dangers of this process???? I am not sure that MEK and "butanone?" would be even close to safe to use in any enclosed environment. For sure, I would use the best possible respirators if I did use them.
    2 points
  19. Yes both the amount of weight and it’s location are big factors when it comes to to action
    2 points
  20. A recipe, similar to the French one, is 50% PVC glue + 50%Methyl Ethyl Chetone (MEK) + powder pigment. For the PVC glue I use Tangit. It dries very quickly, so I'm able to use it only with a brush. To thin it and have more time for airbrushing, you should add butanone, but I have never tried. Bye Cami
    2 points
  21. Look for pvc based products. They can be found at places that sell pvc pipes. The clear glue(solvent) is just like what you will need. You will have to find a solvent to thin it with but can be found. And for colors find powder pigments. Should not be to hard.
    2 points
  22. Incredible. Is this specifically on the rear hook hanger, or either? This makes me want to say really nerdy things about frequency bc I'm a computer engineer major, but I don't know enough about how crankbaits work to thoroughly explain it. It seems like the blade is meant to be on the rear hook hanger, and wobble back and forth like a spoon. Since that wobble is usually at a frequency that doesn't match the crankbait itself, it destabilizes the action, sometimes adding energy and sometimes removing. The issue seems to be that the rear blade has way too much drag, especially at th
    2 points
  23. azsouth, I also have experiemented with this phenomenom and I'll try to reply post or relay as best in short as possible. Dave Vodkaman peaked my interest so I challenged myself and here are my findings best described in short terms. Building hunting crankbaits are a challenge, but with his knowledge and scientific approach it was acheivable and honestly more acheiveable than I thought, but Hunting crankbaits are not for everone! I have a fishing partner that cannot stand a hunting crankbait because they have a sweet spot for speed, maybe not his but he agreed they do have a place. I also
    2 points
  24. I work for a large company in a product development role. I can tell you this, the bigger the company the less they care if the product "works" right. What they need to do is sell stuff profitably good bad or otherwise. Most have great ideas internally that never see daylight due to timing, market or whatever. Personally if i had a great bait that i could reproduce consistent quality catches and is manufacturable, you'd be better off doing an LLC. There is enough power in social media these days to not need the big companies anymore. Its a great time for entrepreneurs imho.
    2 points
  25. It might be fun to take some white silicone caulk and apply it with that crunched up paper. That might provide the texture, the look, and the caulk should stick well to Plastisol.
    1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. You can add hardener to hot plastisol if you thin it with frresh plastisol and mix well before adding.I would also add a squirt of temp stabilizer when you do.
    1 point
  28. Give them a call, 800-546-8922.
    1 point
  29. Looks like red bug instead of junebug on my iPhone too.
    1 point
  30. Are you talking about something like the attached? If so, you take or find your best pictures, import it into Paint (Microsoft products, I don't use MAC so can't help). Once in paint you can alter the size, and shape, to get what you want. The resulting pictures can be printed on water transfer decal material or onto tissue paper (if your printer will take it), and ..... OK other threads on this method.
    1 point
  31. Watched this old Doug Hannon video the other day. In particular the first part where he is talking about attraction and triggering qualities of lures and what he prefers and why. Curious what others here who build lures think of this and do you apply the methodology and if so how to the baits you build. Doug Hannon - The Bass Professor - Catching Big Bass (1986) Youtube wont allow me to embed the video but this is what it is titled if you wish to check it out.
    1 point
  32. I didn't want your post to go un-noticed. But I have not used color shift paints. When I checked them out, it appeared that the colors shifted in such a way that my details would clash with one of the two shift colors. I decided not to use it, but perhaps, if it was a detail and not the main color???? Let us know if you have any luck with this.
    1 point
  33. Try BTS molds 508 creature mold
    1 point
  34. Would it help to run a dehumidifier? I have not done anything with resin yet, so this is NOT coming from experience.
    1 point
  35. Way way too much money! If you want to work for less than minimum wage you will need a bunch of molds. Pouring by the cup will not make you any money. I have a specific bait that I love to throw. I have 11 molds 2 cavity open pour. That's 22 baits per cycle. And I would still not make any money if I sold the baits. It's a great costly hobby. I also paint hard baits and that's bigger money pit.
    1 point
  36. The hooks are legit!! I've used the round bend 10786 which is their version of the Mustad 32786 and it is a good hook. I also used the 11149 in a size #4 for crappie jigs and it is kind of a cross between the EC Lil nasty and the Matzuo sickle. The wire is about the same diameter as the EC, the first bend is the same as the Matzuo sickle and the point is slightly curved like the Lil nasty. I will say this, their points have held up so far and make no mistake, they are sharp. I have not used any of the larger V-Loc hooks but based on what I have experienced so far I know I'm going to get some e
    1 point
  37. To be honest, with experimentation. None of the hardeners are "bad", but they are different. What one person observes can be 180 degrees different than another observation.
    1 point
  38. I almost have the 'magic' lure, and have a stable of six originals and standards that can be brought up to production design level in a short time. I need a 3D printer to get to the final prototyping and the next stage of market testing. As for the final stage of production, I will be skipping the gradual build up and going straight to plastic injection having located a local injection operation so that I don't need to go to China. A manufacturing and production team can be set up quickly, so I can move quickly once the decision is made. BUT, it will take my life savings unless I find an
    1 point
  39. If you have a hobby lobby near you they have some great pearl ex powders that are really affordable. I use their purple pearl for several of my baits and it looks really nice.
    1 point
  40. https://cart.saltwaterplugs.com/tail-weights.html Maybe you could use these tail weights with the cup washer. You could trim the weights to fit your lures. Maybe you can find a tail weight mold or someone who has one? I don't know if anyone on here has the mold that could make you some. I could not find the mold for sale anywhere. Maybe you could use a bullet nose or worm nose type mold instead with a piece of shaft wire to preserve the shaft hole. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Bullet-Nose-Jig-Molds-P228/ https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Worm-Nose-Sinker-WNS-6-A
    1 point
  41. What I always find interesting when it comes to to debating the lure construction strength is most are not considering is the shear range in size/power of fish people target with lures. Most are comparing lure construction to species like bass where 10lbs is big and failing to realize this is a small fish to some who target larger species I would be choked if someone built me a lure for a tarpon trip using the same construction they used for largemouth I have had big chinook, lake trout, and pike break lures. I have had pike break hangers twisting in a net/cradle. Chinook have pull
    1 point
  42. here are some videos, not the best but you get the idea. https://youtu.be/KPsVzycUTf0 https://youtu.be/YY0KLwPxOkY https://youtu.be/XjENNdaTFR4
    1 point
  43. Yes sir, REAR HOOK HANGER ONLY! Frequency theory is above my pay grade, but I can/do understand movements of blades and baits. I also have been thinking of just making clear blades out of clear plastic but in the desert climate I live in they would not last. I am currently using willow, French, Colorado, and Indiana blades with good success.
    1 point
  44. yes! without a doubt the different blades have different affects! Basically the bigger the lip the bigger the bigger blade you can use and not blow it out.
    1 point
  45. Same experiences when cutting baits open. I want my lures to last but think of lures being more of a consumable product. If wanting to build something more bulletproof then I jump to 2 part polyurethane foams as water intrusion is no longer and issue and can still get a very "lively" bait. I really never have had many issues with balsa but don't build near the baits I do with basswood and no where in numbers as I used to do. D-Baits.... brings back some good memories.
    1 point
  46. If there is risk of your target fish species to actually break the body of the lure through wire is a good thing. In most cases this is not an issue so for most species/lures it’s not needed in my opinion If you are making resin baits and you cast your hardware into the lure through wire is even less important The main thing in my opinion is appropriate hardware matched to the material to handle your target species
    1 point
  47. I 3D print my gliders with a white pearl PLA filament. So when I use Candy2o, the reflective pearl base never goes away on my finished baits. The same would apply to foil baits also.
    1 point
  48. I do but what I did is to turn it into a trout I just stippled spots on it.
    1 point
  49. Pearls are standard colors with a pearlizing medium added to give the pearl effect. You should be able to mix them without a problem. Blue + yellow = green, but you can add pearl white to dark pearl green to lighten it up too. You can also buy bottles of "pearlizing medium" to make standard colors pearlescent. So there are several ways to go, you just have to experiment.
    1 point
  50. 1. Wear leather gloves if you can. Especially on the hand that holds the mold in case lead pours over the mold or splashes. 2. Don't smoke, eat or munch on snacks when pouring lead. Because your hands are touching lead, and then you grab the cigarette, or the food and put it in your mouth.
    1 point
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