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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/24/2021 in Posts

  1. Not sure what the expectations of this product were or are. Just to explain what it is from what I have recieved. It is hilite put on clear film and cut into glitter. An explosion of color is not what you get. But you can get a transparent bait with flashes of the color you choose. Clear and light smoke color will get you the highest quality affect. Putting it in an opaque color will not yield a result that is worth the effort to put it in.
    3 points
  2. I exchanged a few messages with Harry Simmons (sales rep for Victory) and it seems they are starting out with the most popular sizes and styles. My opinion is they are taking advantage of the covid sales boom, and the fact that often in the last year items were out of stock from older known vendors. I recently was asked to work on a project using some Victory hooks. I was sent Mustad, Eagle Claw, and Victory hooks in the same sizes. I found on testing the Victory hooks were very sticky sharp. At a glance they look very good and on pull testing they were as strong before permanent bend as
    3 points
  3. I just found out that Del Wilcox of Delmart molds passed yesterday morning. One of they guys who helped a lot of us get started in this addiction. RIP my friend.
    2 points
  4. Sometimes inaction is the trigger - like when a Muskie hits it on the pause. I have seen prey freeze when faced with a predator. Some fish attack a school, stunning or wounding prey. This might be another case where inaction triggers a strike.
    2 points
  5. I’ve never seen those, they must be new? My questions are: are they crystal clear? How durable is the finish? What is the cost? Is this a pure UV cured resin or is it a special formulation? No wax flakes to promote surface hardness like their dual cure formula designed for surf boards, I hope? what we need is a guinea pig to test this stuff. I nominate..... Nathan!
    2 points
  6. Try one with just the gold first, adding the beads, and make one up with the same painted one you have with the additional beads. The painting may make no difference.
    2 points
  7. It's not the weight, it is the angle of the blade relative to the width of the body and first couple of beads. On your 2nd from the left and the third, you have a micro bead than a small brass bead. Add at least one, maybe two. Below that hoj can add your weight back in. Your blades may be part of the problem. They looked like you painted them, so how much heavier are they than original. If the weight is too much, it slows down the spin. It would probably need to be 30% or more heavier than before the added paint. You are close, very close. Someday I will take the time to dra
    2 points
  8. I use medium baitplastics myself & never use softener because i think my baits are plenty soft. If i want a bait firmer i just replace some of the medium with hard. Most times i work in 4 ounce batches so it works easy for me.
    2 points
  9. I like using polycrilic as a midcoat between layers when I'm going to apply a stencil or mesh. I have had tape pull paint off, or if I mess up the stencil/mesh, i can wipe that layer back off to the midcoat and try again! It is like locking in the layers that I like lol. Safety blanket. I follow the steps that engineered angler showed in one of his vids. I dilute it with water, and spray several light coats onto the lure. It dries quickly. I will usually put on a coat before finishing with epoxy as well.
    2 points
  10. Intercoats are not always necessary, but you can use intercoats at any time. For example, intercoats between candy coats are necessary, and different intercoating material may be necessary to prevent bleeding. Another example is the use of chrome paints. For years we have been trying to get a chrome paint that would work, and they always went gray when we clear coated. Now Engineered Angler on YouTube has discovered that Minwax Polyacrylic and pledge used as an intercoat stops the gray and keeps it glossy/chrome. On the other hand, using intercoats between normal opaque or transparent
    2 points
  11. First fish ever caught on an underground spin !
    1 point
  12. n2 manufacturing gets good reviews on the bait making groups on facebook, seem to have quick turn around times. basstackle is pretty hit or miss on injectors but can check them from time to time and get lucky. i know fat guys fishing is working on making injectors, not sure when they are going to release them though and if they will have dual kits available right away or not though.
    1 point
  13. Here is a gill detail I came up with ( at least have not seen before ) , I am making a top water and flat sided crankbait and will be layering a light color next to collar and darker on top for contrast . Think this will be cool detail
    1 point
  14. Zeiner's carries the Do-It mold line. Their customer service is great.
    1 point
  15. I just posted pics of some completed foiled saltwater lures. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/21365-men-atl-f14-2jpg/ http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/21364-bbh-f14-6jpg/ http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/21363-mack-f14-pr1jpg/ http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/21362-mack-sil-bl2jpg/
    1 point
  16. I have been loving the 6" version of the body (fantastic pike candy) but I have my eye on the other end of the scale 1.75" version has anyone tried that size.
    1 point
  17. Certain baits are easy to store. I store ribbontail worms, crawfish, tubes, etc in boxes. You just have to take your time layering them in. Make sure they are well cured before storing.
    1 point
  18. Mark No what I was saying that I would let the poly settle and just pour the poly into another container, while I flush out the whatever settles in the bottom of the pint can and wash that out so I have a clean container to pour the poly back into. Do not stir the poly up just let it settle. Then I could use what was needed to mix my glow powder into a plastic cup and it was ready to spray. When you first open do not mix pour it out then wash out the pint can then you have a clean can, the poly works as a medium for mixing.I have not mixed anywith Createx but will try that out. Wayn
    1 point
  19. I would do a test first. Sometimes soft plastics melt hard plastic.
    1 point
  20. Yes I have and do Nathan. Apply first coat with a brush , leave no excess, cure. If you sand after cure make sure to wipe down part with lacquer thinner, then dip bait for second coat and cure. Comes out smooth as glass. I really like it but the price is too high for my production. I use it for prototyping.
    1 point
  21. I should have seen that one coming BobP…It appears no one is familiar with it ( or is not saying anything lol)..I’ll do a little research and see what I can find out and report back..Nathan
    1 point
  22. Createx is a good brand for standard colors. But I mix and match various airbrush paint brands just depending on color. I use a lot of taxidermy acrylic paints to get their unique colors.
    1 point
  23. Watched the video, seems that if a "minnow bait" turns out to have a subtle or subdued action it may perform well as a jerk bait. ...good to remember if my minnow baits don't turn out the way I hope
    1 point
  24. I agree on all accounts. The old things I copied just used a weighted swimbait type hook to provided the "keel effect". I used a swimbait style, weight on the hook shank, jig hook bend if you will. This is a fun subject. I use to make, and buy, and use a lot of buzz baits. I swear that while they are not going to get you the most fish on most days, they sure do catch bigger fish in general.
    1 point
  25. Sorry Nate, I've never tried either. All I've used is their dual cure polyester resin, and it works.
    1 point
  26. The do-it ripper is about as close as it comes. I have the essential series, but not in a 4". PM sent
    1 point
  27. In my opinion you are overthinking it I can understand if you want to reference other lures for ideas but for the most part you just need to keep things symmetrical. After that float test and balance your lures. If you start researching past and present lure shapes you will find just about and shape you can think of has been used There is nothing wrong with building a little firewood as you learn.
    1 point
  28. @Anglinarcher Thanks for that link, sounds to be exactly what I need. I'll check it out! @Travis ...hmm the wrong search word problem again eh ? LOL! Thanks for your comments Travis! Much appreciated! Being (very) technical in nature I guess that I am over-thinking hard bait design. Seen a lot of videos where they just free-hand a lure profile and start carving, I always wonder how many "duds" they make before getting a bait that swims the way they want. Yes, lure profiles are easy to get from pictures, it is the lip/bib shape and weighting that is the concern.
    1 point
  29. The Ukrainian mold maker sells molds that are close. Bait molds .com. I have the 3.8 fat impact. It’s pretty close no hook slot but it doesn’t matter to me. The only thing I will say is that it takes forever to get a mold from them. Usually about a month to two. the color looks like a watermelon green to me.
    1 point
  30. I got “Let’s Resin” brand, Hard formula resin 200 g on Amazon and it came in about a week. That was before Covid screwed up everything. It takes around 30 minutes to cure under my UV nail light, which seems pretty long. But the end result is good. It’s manufactured in China but I don’t know where it ships from.
    1 point
  31. Was expecting a little more flash than regular or hologram glitter. Maybe a little more flash or iridescence? I tried some clear, nice results but I don't make any clear baits. I did try an opaque stick bait. That was for an order I had. Regular glitter was heads and tails above the shine of the sparkle. Scratching my head over that one. Tonight a tried a white pearl smoke with the .035 violet. Not bad, but I can see where the .015 would certainly be a better choice. Interestingly, using MF crayfish color with the .035 violet the baits took on a violet color. Before you say I overhea
    1 point
  32. Another option Jig Junkie
    1 point
  33. I talked to them about the product, they sure weren't sure about a couple of things. Call them and they are helpful to make sure i'm not mis quoting them. They could not tell me if heat denting was any better than PVC. They were not sure about pigments and colorants to use and no recommendations, they said they would wait for users to use the product then make recommendations. I thought that was a strange response, then they said they might have pigments and colorants in a couple months. I asked them a lot of questions but forgot the most important and that is how toxic this stuff is.
    1 point
  34. @Anglinarcher I have a bottle of the Holloway floor finish so I will give that a try. My airbrush paint finally arrived so I can test these products while I'm practicing my airbrushing techniques (wish me luck LOL). I'll see about getting some of the Minwax polycrylic as well. Thanks for your help! Van
    1 point
  35. Yes, and no. That product has cleaners in it, and the cleaners are said to cause issues, BUT I have not tried it myself. The stuff I know works is one of the two of these(I prefer gloss): 1) https://www.hobbylobby.com/search?q=minwax+polycrylic%3Arelevance&quickview=80958532 Mix this down with 15% water to use it in an airbrush. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Polycrylic-Matte-Water-Based-Polyurethane-Actual-Net-Contents-11-5-fl-oz/1000447085?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-google-_-lia-_-219-_-interiorstains-_-1000447085-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=C
    1 point
  36. Look on YouTube for a video by Alvin Bowman, it might help.
    1 point
  37. The top skirt tab supplier to the US market has it's production plant located in Vietnam. They make silicone skirts for Z Man and other big name lure manufacturers as well as skirt tabs for venders here in the states . They are overwhelmed by demand right now and running their production at 150% of designed capacity from what I was recently told . This has caused a shortage of skirt tabs and also the discontinuation of a lot of colors in favor of what colors/patterns their major clients want made. I was also told they were looking to expand their facilities in Vietnam to meet dem
    1 point
  38. Where are Victory Hooks made? Thanks, Pete
    1 point
  39. Just for reference on the drying subject, this is what I had happened on some 2.5's from several years ago. I sprayed the silver very heavy and hit it with the hair dryer, the surface paint dried but was still wet underneath apparently. It was dry enough the apply a stencil to the side of the bait and spray the stripes without messing up the silver base. After I dipped them in KBS they wrinkled as seen . I sprayed some other colorways at the same time that had less paint that didn't wrinkle. I make sure each layer is dry now and haven't had this issue since.
    1 point
  40. Heat set each color(Layer) before the next unless you're applying very light coats. Paint will look dry until you clearcoat then you get an unpleasant surprise. I have a hair dryer next to the paint station, hit it with some hot air and you can see the paint turn opaque, ready for the next layer. I only intercoat over foil to protection the foil finish from future handling when adding paint colors. Hope this helps...
    1 point
  41. Applied KBS Clear Diamond Finish to new head light housings 3 years ago. They have turned yellow. Applied KBS clear to chromed plastic center caps for expensive custom wheels 3 years ago. Now they are history. In both cases KBS Diamond clear turned to yellow. Expensive paint, terrible performance. Clearly the paint will degrade when exposed to the sun.
    1 point
  42. I do not have one of the washers here to measure but I know they are very, very small. Maybe these? JB
    1 point
  43. @otsismi As Nathan said, experience will tell you what to do to make them batter for your needs. And as he also said, please post pics in the Gallery
    1 point
  44. Your spinner will catch fish..just need to get a few under your belt and you’ll see a improvement. With that said..photos like these need to be put in the proper photo gallery..Nathan
    1 point
  45. If one person was always right he/she would own the fishing industry, but that is not the case!! We all have had great years followed by not so great years.... as conditions change from year to year so does the fishing.
    1 point
  46. BINGO! Just like some plastisols, fluorescents hard pack more than most colors. They need to be mixed really well. I just used a small screwdriver to break it up, but some guys use beads or small weights. One that's done, as you mentioned, mix it in cold plastic. If you don't, you are wasting color and just beating a dead horse.
    1 point
  47. Interesting video. I think I had the wrong idea about jerk baits, but I have never used one or built one. The video does demonstrate how the swim angle is relative to the retrieval speed, and backs up the argument that every lipped lure has a hunting speed, but this is just a side note. It looks like the most erratic action occurs when the lip is vertical, this too makes sense, as it is in this lip attitude that the hunt occurs. I guess it is nice for the lure to 'spring back' to horizontal, and for the lure to have a nice movement on a steady retrieve, but I think that these ar
    1 point
  48. It does give an idea on some proven jerk bait actions I think a lot of people overlook jerk baits and focus on baits like cranks they can just retrieve in stead. Personally I enjoy lures that I add a lot to the action by how I retrieve them personally I like jerk baits that can be worked both fast and extremely slow are ideal. Ones that give off a lot of action with short jerks and rises or sinks really slow a lipped jerk bait design is on my to do list along with a perfecting a hybrid pull bait I am happy with. A soft tail jerk bait has been an option floating in my head too
    1 point
  49. 1 point
  50. Water Wolf, will change the way you fish cranks.
    1 point
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