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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/19/2024 in Posts

  1. Temp & speeds are pretty crucial when shooting plastics. Heat it to 350 & shoot quick. Like said above heat the injector if it's cold. I mix in colorant & flake most times before heating unless i'm making a totally new color that i haven't figured out the mixture yet. This way i prepare the mix, heat to 350 & inject like a well-oiled machine more or less & seldom have any problems at all. The more you do it the more you'll get your system worked out & the problems pretty much become a non issue.
    3 points
  2. Then take your marbles and go play somewhere else if all you're going to do is complain about them. I'm not 100% up to date with this stuff. Fat Guys would be a solid place to get it though. I believe Jeff stopped because of that and they jacked his pricing up on him. I do know that anything Calhoun is the previous formula they've had for years. when they tweaked it everyone complained, including the production customers.
    2 points
  3. When I used to make jointed swimbaits, I found that the key to keeping them stable at higher retrieve speeds was to make the body taper from top to bottom, creating a V cross section. In my case, my swimbaits tapered from 7/8" at the top/back to 5/8" at the bottom/belly. This kept more buoyancy higher in the lure body, so I could put less ballast into the belly and still get the stable retrieve at higher speeds. I actually started the taper about a third of the way down from the shoulders of the bait, as you can see in this picture" It doesn't look like much, but it worked, so I could burn my swimbaits without them rolling.
    2 points
  4. This is what I think of when I think crawfish.....
    2 points
  5. One of the old school hollow swimbait techniques (kinda like a BassTrix) was to use a butter knife with the light serrations ground off and the edge rounded over. If they wanted a conventional looking tail they just cut it that way. If they wanted a paddle tail they would split a Colorado blade part way and solder or braze it to the knife. One of the parts suppliers even started selling dipping blades with the tail blade already attached.
    2 points
  6. I have no Idea - But it sounds like the rod u dip with would need a wide spot in the belly area. If that makes sense?
    2 points
  7. You may want to heat your injector as your plastic heats. I stick mine on a hot plate.
    2 points
  8. Agree above, Sounds like things are getting cooled off to soon. Not the product at all.
    2 points
  9. Ok, package came on lunch while I was at work today. I shot home quick, mixed the plastisol up good, poured a cup and popped in in the microwave for 3:40 total. I can say it's not not degassed, lots of bubbles. Not a big deal as the Calhouns/FGF flavor is much the same for me (it smells like Calhouns to me too). My degasser is down so I had to let it sit in the micro for a few minutes. most of the bubbles rose and popped. I also got 3 of their colorants (GP, Watermelon, Junebug). I chose Junebug, dropped 40 in the cup and it was thin, like.....MF thin. 90 drops to a cup got me the semi transparent Junebug I like for the Northeast. It has a little more purple than blue, which I like. The Em Grn flake picked up nicely. I cant say I WOULDNT buy it again....just wouldnt be my first choice of plastisol. I'll shoot the GP and Watermelon this week and post up those pics. Sorry for the blurry one.....phone wouldnt focus. My prefered plastisols in order are still: 1. Bait Plastics Low Odor 2. Calhouns/FGF 3. Dead On 4. Ozark Tackle 5. Do-It I havent tried MF, Lureworks, Barlows, or Lurecraft yet.
    2 points
  10. I picked up a cheap meat grinder from harbor freight. It works really good and I think it was around $30.00.
    2 points
  11. Just a guess but it looks like the white powder was sprinkled in the mold cavity then the base color was shot.
    2 points
  12. I shape (including ballast holes adding hardware hangers) and seal my baits with penetrating epoxy (epoxy thinned with alcohol), add ballast as needed to get them to suspend, seal the ballast holes, paint, and finish. For me, the paint and topcoat don't effect the suspension enough to worry about.
    2 points
  13. While not sure what a corky is, I think you might be looking for The Holy Grail. If plastic is soft, it's not firm, and if it's soft most likely it's not durable. The durable plasitisols would be the flex type, stretch type, or saltwater types. Too soft and they rip apart off the hook. Too firm and you probably won't get the action you're looking for. Once your baits have a chance to cure, about 24 hours or so, you can bag them up with whatever scent you choose, and after a while the baits will be impregnated with the scent. I make a 50/50 mix of scent and worm oil to bag mine. Then sprinkle with salt. As far as your plastic, you may have to spend some time researching. Some suppliers do sell sample sets. Bait Plastic.com being one of them. Don't forget to order softener and hardener to custom make exactly what you want. Another suggestion. MF Plastisol. Get the flex or med flex, and use the hardener or softener to adjust. and remember to right down your recipes. When making baits, there is no none size fits all.
    2 points
  14. Never use your good sprue cutter for anything but cutting lead. Just touching them on a hook shank will dull them. I used to wrap the shank on a mold that flashed a bit on the shank. About three times around the shank and one was dull. all that said, I like the Xuron flush cutters. I’ll copy and paste a pair but they have a bunch available. Really high quality tools. https://xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/3/84
    1 point
  15. VMC6317 can be used, but requires some modification to the mold. Mods can be done in such a way that Victory 10777 can still be used.
    1 point
  16. It means that a size 4 all the way through a size 2/0 will fit in that cavity in the specific style of hook. All sizes between and including the numbers.
    1 point
  17. I made some “craw” colored neds last summer using root beer dye with black and red flake. Thought it turned out pretty good. Add a little red highlight powder for grins and it made it look more like that very orange craw color with some shimmer to it. The highlight baits are on the right in this pic.
    1 point
  18. I use my Do-It Arky weedless jig mold to pour 1/2oz vibrating jig heads, using Mustad 5/0 60 degree jig hooks, but I found the hook eyes would crack when I tried to open them to insert the chatter blade. So I tried heating my hook eyes red hot with my torch, and that made them soft enough to open by driving an awl into them until I got enough gap to put the chatter blade on. That worked, but the hook eye felt soft and ovaled when I pinched it shut with the blade in place. So I took a batch of the opened eye hooks and put them into my toaster oven for a hour at 350 degrees, the same temp I use to bake my powder coat, to retemper them. When I pinched them closed this time I felt much more resistance, but none broke, so this is another step in my vibrating jig making process. Success!
    1 point
  19. I've never had a problem with their plastic at all. You can get degassed. You can call them & ask pretty much anything you want or you can look for any post by McLuvin on here & shoot him a message too.
    1 point
  20. Give him a call. It`s free. 1-877-809-1659.
    1 point
  21. This applies to their molds because they make them on an as ordered basis. The name may seem funny but from videos I’ve seen of their operation I’m led to believe the name refers to the owners physical stature. Man I hated to be the one to say that. While I can’t speak to their plastic their molds and accessories are top notch. Don’t let the name fool you.
    1 point
  22. They're buying it directly from Calhoun so I would assume it is theirs. The "OG Blend" part is is referring to a tweak they (Calhoun) made to the compound that resulted in an undesirable outcome, so they reverted back to the original formula.
    1 point
  23. I make wood wake baits mostly about 7" finished length. I use stainless steel wire from McMaster Carr that I buy in a spool that is 1/4 lb. in either 0.052 or 0.062. Mostly 0.062" for a 7 inch wake bait. Then I twist it into a hook or line tie. I do this because there is much more holding power with a twisted wire hangar that with the screw eyes. I drill my holes for a snug slip fit and all the way through the wood. Then I fill the hole with D2T until it comes out the other side and put my finger over the other side while I push the hanger into place that way I am sure I have 100% wood, wire, and epoxy. On holes that don't naturally exit the bait, like line tie, I drill a vent hole down from the top to accomplish the same thing. I find that if I use the 0.092" screw eyes with the size hooks and split rings I want to use, it is easy to over stretch the split ring over the 092 size wire. I do keep 0.092 screw eyes in stock though in 2" and 2-1/2" and now I use them for wood chopper type baits so I have plenty of hold even after holding the big chopper blades.
    1 point
  24. I have been making these a few ways Best is lead wire wrapped on the hook shank, up to 1/8" works. Also used pinch on sinker direct on the shank, some are better than others, i prefer thinner and sleek. They work better than rubber core and have a smoother taper I have heat shrunk lead strips, toothpick weights, ss screws, and lashed former to hook shank with old braided line, for the over the nose weights. I will be attempting a lead mold to make them neater and hopefully a little easier to rig on the plastics, will report back Kevinj
    1 point
  25. I would say so. Most glides that roll for me it’s either that or the ratio of buoyancy vs weight. What I mean by that is if your resin bait is too heavy and you have to put less weight to get it to be slow sink, there may not be enough weight to actually stabilize it. I hope that makes sense. The tail can also be a factor. Too long, too stiff or too short. I just made a mini mullet glide, it worked perfectly until paint and clear and now its action is different. Still trying to get it tuned.
    1 point
  26. Thanks for the ideas. I will give them a try. Best, Jeff
    1 point
  27. I’ve switched to it for most of my Ned fishing, which is a lot from October to May. A tid bit… While fishing a stretch in Piney Creek on Table Rock Lake I lost 15 Ned rigs as I don’t go into a fishy area to get a bait back. After I bought that mold I fished the same water with the new head and only lost 2. That sold me. I also furnish heads for my neighbor since he springs for the gasoline. (Those lost heads had a sevelon weedguard.) Thanks for the suggestions guys. I’ll check the mold and lower the temp, though I can’t go down much and keep a good flow.
    1 point
  28. I agree with Bass-Boys on the belly made onto them. . You could take bolts & weld & shape a belly on them or use jb weld to make them.
    1 point
  29. Hi Jig Man and cadman. First I want to thank you both for readily sharing your knowledge and helping noobs like myself. As for the topic at hand...I modified my weedless MWF mold to use VMC6317 in addition to the Victory 10777. I am not getting runs along the hook shaft with either. The VMC hook actually have a smaller shaft diameter (0.038" vs 0.040" for the 10777). I run my lead at 700F. So maybe 750 is a bit too hot?
    1 point
  30. I use eyescrews anywhere from .062 thru .092 thickness, from 3/4 inch long to 1.5 inch long depending on the size lure. You can find them at Barlows, Lurepartsonline, and Jann's Necraft, all tackle hardware suppliers, or Ebay. I'm making 6-10 inch swimbaits.
    1 point
  31. very helpful video. Thanks for sharing Quick Draw
    1 point
  32. I use scissors. Cut while plastic cooks and molds cool. Also I never leave pucks.. Pour the left over into molds then it is way easier to cut up later.
    1 point
  33. Not a fan of their plastisol, never had good luck with it. I'd suggest a gallon of Bait Plastics 242, low bubbles and REAL forgiving to work with. Heat to 350-360, add colorant & flake, then make sure you are injecting around 315-330 deg. After you get your color & flake right, if you dont re-heat you may be shooting at too low a temp & the plastisol is too cool. You dont have to hold too long on your injector either, a few seconds is all thats needed. Top off the sprue and move on to the next one. I always put the cup back in the micro too, keep it warmer longer and allows any leftover bubbles to go away.
    1 point
  34. I shipped 2 dozen bottles of colorant I never used from NY to MI via USPS. I electrical taped the lids, put the bottles in plastic bags and left the air in for a cushion. I also lined the box with bubble wrap and paper. Never had an issue. I'd also be interested in what you have to offload. Praying for your health man.
    1 point
  35. Big scissors or a hand crank grinder. Hobo Freight & Wally world should have something cheap.
    1 point
  36. Clouse Outdoors on Ebay. He makes them.
    1 point
  37. I used 20 Redrum and 2 M-F Indigo (I know, not DoP), try Electric Grape in place of the Indigo. If you dont have it, Junebug or Blue should get you real close.
    1 point
  38. I've found that decoupage epoxy, like what is used for bar tops, works best for my wooden baits, because it is designed to move with the wood's expansion and contraction. For small plastic baits, Devcon 2 ton, which is a glue epoxy and designed to be rigid, will work, but it cracks on bigger wooden baits.
    1 point
  39. I found that with stick worms you need to use soft sinking, or super soft and add a lot of salt until you get the sink rate you want.
    1 point
  40. I heated it to the 400 degrees and injected it super slowly. That solved my air issues. Thank you very much!
    1 point
  41. Thanks guys. I can dip larger profile tubes for bass & they're fine but the thinner diameter of the crappie tubes just haven't suited me when i dip a second color. I'll just let the second color cool a little more & dip once & should be ok. I just thought you guys may have an easier way. No big deal i'll fix it. Thanks
    1 point
  42. Looks like a basic Watermelon with 0.035" Square Black, Kelly Green, and Gold and 0.015" Red.
    1 point
  43. You should be able to click on My eBay (on the top ) and click Purchase History.
    1 point
  44. Another is duck feathers. They are not legal to buy sell trade for adornment/jewlery/clothing, but legally harvested they may be for "fishing lures." There are some interesting natural colors available in duck feathers. A neighbor who hunts may be willing to give you some. Especially if you help clean. You may even go home with a couple ducks for dinner, but don't count on that last part.
    1 point
  45. I've seen a lot of people use maple or poplar for swimbaits. Something very buoyant like cedar, redwood, or basswood will take a ton of lead, whereas something more dense won't need nearly as much. A tradeoff is the maple is much harder to carve than basswood. A lot of people will use different types of wood for different types of baits, and wood density can have a significant impact on lure function. The buoyancy of the wood works with the drag of the lip on crankbaits to impart action, gliders use the mass of the bait and the hydrodynamics of the profile to create a good glide, and so it goes.
    1 point
  46. M-F has been a supplier of my favorite plastic in different grades for 20yrs. When a good product become unavailable, for whatever reason, I watch for its return. A popular company that has supplied thousands of gallons over many years should be given a break -no questions asked. When a good company + products is back up - for whatever reason sevice was suspended - I'm ready to resume ordering and relieved that I can. There is a need to stay with what fulfills one's needs and M-F has always done that for me. Bad companies on the other hand, due to inconsistent quality either in service or product, I will not recommend and in fact will warn others about MY expericences. Two strikes and they're out! To each his own. No argument necessary.
    1 point
  47. Bryan, I have not seen the 5/64 (.078) pins in teflon, reason being is they are not a std size. However like anything else it can be custom made which would be cost prohibitive. So what I do is this. You can either buy .078 stn stl rod and cut it into 1" pieces, and use that or you can buy severl 5/64 drill bits ( that's what I use), and stick the non flured end into the mold up against the hook. This works for me. There are many other things you can use as well, howeve you want the 5/64 diameter, and I know they make drill bits that size, so it's an easy find.
    1 point
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