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Have not used the gel to seal a bait did use to seal a few pens I turned when ran out of the regular super glure. It won't be absorbed as readily as the liquid due to viscosity. Personally I find the liquid easier better to coat things and the gel reserved for applications where I need it to stay put (mounting coral frags for example). A finger cot or vinyl glove makes short work of coating a bait. On my lathe I have sealed much larger pieces (bowls) with superglue in no time. Apply in low humidity settings and cure times will slow dramatically. A dehumidifier in a bathroom or walk in closet will let most get down to much drier conditions, even in humid environments. One year we had a small lab space 8 ft x 8 ft approximately that the AC had issues in and had to do some work on some materials that were sensitive to humidity. I could start out in the mid 70% range and get down to near 12% quickly running two run of the mill big box store units.

LureWorks Cotton Candy 165 Purple Flake, some green flake, and what looks like a small amount of silver flake. Maybe you can adjust the color to your liking using a tiny bit of the florescent pink as alsworms said. I have a bottle of cotton candy from MF I think from some years back. Used it once. And like the rest of us I have a bunch of colors I've only used once.

no one mentioned the l;ip slot. if crooked it will death spiral

i use the thin super glue a lot when prototyping and building test baits. and use the gel on stuff like eyes, if using screws or twistwire. not sure how long the superglue sealing will last, but some of them baits are getting up there now.

I guess I could have made the photo a little smaller to get the writing in. Left is Lureworks 165. Center can be read.Right top2drops red 3 drops brown pumpkin. Bottom is 3drops red and 4 drops brown pumpkin. All MF colors. MF soft sinking plastic. No salt or other additives.

Im gonna give it a shot. They sell dried shrimp at a local mexican market, im gonna pulverize it into a powder and give it a whirl. I wonder if the fish will like it.

I think @Outlaw4 has a good point about the weight. Keeping the weight down in the lure close to the belly might help keep it from rolling over and help it swim more upright. Generally speaking, keeping the lure sitting level can be really helpful. I've made some that sat nose up or down and still swam fine, but level is generally the way to go.

most glides have a lot of belly weight, dropping the belly might help if it moves weight down. Does it sink level?

Private group, gotta join, best I can do...

Five minute Devcon is fine for lips and line ties if that is the route you want to go. Other options will work also.

You could try some red & dip a tooth pick just slighty in some white to give it a pinkish hue. Just dip maybe an 1/8 inch & stir it in then if not enough repeat the process. It should take very little to get the pink look if you're dong a small batch.

we use dollar store adhero epoxy. remember scuff the lexan lip .it holds very well.

Yes they're legit & one of the big players in the plastisol & bait making products business. I buy pretty much all of my colorants from them.

www.ispikeit.com/product/623/cotton-candy-165

Doesn't sound right as I don't see pumpkin being in CC, but you can buy basic pumpkin at any lure parts place. I would recommend NOT getting pumpkin from MF as it's very weak.

also if the pull point is beyond 1 inch from lip end baits will normally blo-out .

A picture would definitely help..Nathan

Easiest way to figure out if it's lack of weight ....put some weight on the front hook and try it.

Hey guys, I currently use medium soft lureworks. I’m looking to buy a blend for creatures, craws and larger worms(AR Worm) should I go with bait plastics medium or medium / saltwater blend? I want to have some firmness and durability but also good action on my creatures, craws and larger worms. Thanks in advance!!

5/8 is 1/2 inch wide x 1/2 inch long. 9/16 is 1/2 inch wide x 7/16 inch long. 5/8 is 1.771 grams heavier.

You'll be satisfied with Anglin A I without a doubt.

baitplastics is as good as it gets.

Thanks folks. I have some of the ones you mentioned and have modified others. I’m wanting something close to the one I posted for a really picky guy who currently uses it exclusively.

If you do some searching here and online you will probably come across tutorials and info on creating two part molds using Durhams water putty . It is essential to get all of the moisture out of the mold by baking before attempting any pours . Good luck on your jig ideas ...

Another option that is a little outside the box is the Herring Head Mold! It's designed for making underspins, but if you go sans-underspin I'm sure the fish would still eat it! https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Herring-Head-Jig-Molds-P3289/ Takes a 90 degree hook and has a lead bait keeper.

I know you said you weren't a wire keeper fan, but I've seen several people use jigs from this mold with their keitech-style swimbaits. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Swimbait-Head-Jig-Mold-P3763/ Got a 90 degree hook on it too. Maybe not your cup of tea, but thought I'd throw it out there, just in case you like the look of it.

I have a mold with the wire keepers. It is not Keitech friendly, even with super glue on the head. The dirty jig holds the best.

Since you said "Ideas" I am assuming you're talking about prototypes of your ideas . It's better to go the cheapest route at first when creating a mold just in case the finished product does not perform as expected and modifications are required . You can create a two- part mold capable of pouring molten lead into a few times before degrading out of plaster product called "Durhams water putty " You need to bake the mold after it dries to insure no moisture remains before pouring hot lead into it . It is really the cheapest option .

This maybe a little out of left field. But one of the winter's projects has been a new set of deck chairs for up at the cabin. when I made my first set my next door neighbor gave me leftover cans of Cetol SRD the stuff is awesome for outdoor wood the 20 years since it's called this (at least in Canada) http://www.exclusivepaints.com/shop/stain/sico-proluxe-srd-re-wood-finish/ 20 years of abuse and the chairs are broken down but the finish is decent(remember 0 maintenance) We have some that had plain Varathan and those are only 10 or so years and the wood is grey mossy and not a flake of finish on it. Judging by a chair I just finished it is a curing finish, so with a light sand it should take paint Did some looking and it is a boiled linseed oil variant

It's a laminate, the tail colour is same as body. I would want that one in my hand to even try to take a crack at it. Pictures aren't accurate at all with colours.

Thanks. I'll give it a try, and report back.

I've been struggling with color combo's call it block so started to find topics on contrasting colors that didn't do it. Out of the blue I went to printers and looked up peacock wall art and that was it all the color combo's that worked together. I wanted to share

I use a cap full of heat stabilizer when heating remelt too if it's been sitting a while. If it's fresh i usually only reheat a small amount & don't use stabilizer then.

I think it's more for the angler than the fish. Some guys swear by the Bait Fuel but it's water based. I do add scent to the baits I sell.

I found the #242 to be very user friendly. I've reheated it 6-7-8 times without discoloration. I do use a splash of heat stabilizer.

I've always liked Berkley Power Baits. Since I started making my own I put scent in everything but swimbaits. It may be me but I think they hold on to it just a but longer if it smells and tastes good.

Scents are only really effective if they're water soluble. Unfortunately, most scents contain oils & plasticizers that are not water soluble. You'll get some scent particle release but not as well as a full water-soluble scent.

Try using braid as a main line with a short fluoro leader. No stretch braid really makes for good hooksets.

I use the Devcon 30 minute epoxy. The 5 minute epoxy failed me because it is water resistant, but the other is water proof. Have not had one failure since I switched.

I went back and looked. That is Bear’s recipe. I’m guessing that the brown in the pumpkin mutes the red colorant to give it that off pink look.

Personally, I love the colors that come in highlighter form. I'm always messin' around with them on swimbaits lol

@woodieb8 nailed it on the head. I have had this issue in the past with cranks. Your bait will spiral from a few different things. One, which is previously mentioned, is not enough ballast. Another is your lip slot being crooked. And the final one I can think of is your lip being asymmetrically placed in the slot.

The old lipped jigs worked. There were several around 20-25 years ago. When the Chatterbait came on the scene in 2003 and became the hot bait, the other styles with the molded in blade lost popularity. Some baits are discontinued because the company has more profitable baits, the bait isn't as popular as a 'new' bait and sales drop, or a component becomes too expensive. Sometimes a corporate merger causes a reduction in a brand's product line. Sometimes it has nothing to do with how well a bait works. The Arbogast Mudbug is one of my favorite crankbaits. Works as good now as it did in the 80s. Other baits, like the modern square bills, became more popular, sales declined, there were numerous mergers, and it was discontinued. The Stanley lipped jig had a too stiff weed guard and a poor hook by today's standard. I don't think they even need a weed guard. You miss a lot of fish on it. Berkley made one called the Blade Dancer. It didn't have a skirt and had a grub-tail minnow designed for it. There was the Wobblehead that was typically fished with a Creme Scoundrel or other straight worm. They also could have benefitted from a better hook. The ones made now with the better hooks of today can be very effective. I have been using this one and really like it: https://www.rockyledgetackle.com/products/swimbait-jig I use a slow to medium steady retrieve. They have a certain range of retrieve speed where the action is great. I watch the jig coming in to find it. I use a trailer that has little resistance like a grub, half a trick worm, split tail spinnerbait trailer, or ribbon-tail worm with the head cutoff. Paddletails and craws have too much action on their own and can kill the action of the jig. It doesn't vibrate like a Chatterbait. It come in with a side to side sashay. They seem to work better in clearer water or less windy days when you need a more subdued presentation than a true vibrating bladed jig. I also think I have had good luck with them in pressured waters because everyone else is throwing a Chatterbait. I like them because they have very little retrieve pressure and the molded in blade helps them scoots over objects. They're great to fish if you hands are sore at the end of long day or multi-day trip.

IMO hook rash is only a problem when it comes off in chunks or the clear peels. That’s when you should rethink what you are using or how it’s being applied. I am happy when one of my baits gets rash in only one spot. are you putting one coat or two?

Saw this thread was revived recently. I now own a few molds from Angling AI. Happy with the product and their customer service. The only problem is I don't know which mold to order next.

just to refresh the topic for those who have doubts, the molds are top class, very good, I ordered open molds 5" jerks, and it took 5 days from the date of order to the production floor, then another 4 days shipping to Poland, so fast , best regards, @rybadnia

I have used plastisol, feathers, paint brush bristles, silicone mats, flexible plastic cut from various containers and notebook covers, even a thin flat belt from a small piece of machinery. I like tails that will flex and compress some if the bait is bit from behind.

Sometimes I use my sawzall just tape a bottle to a blade. Wayne

For PVC I use the weighted hook hangers from LurePartsOnline. For balsa I use .072 sst screw eyes. I drill a pilot hole, put some runny super glue down into the hole to strengthen the wood around it, run the screw eye in and then out again to cut threads into the wood, coat the screw eye with super glue, and run it back in. I haven't had any failures from cranks I've made using that technique, but I use med. balsa. If you want to use a through wire, I would use D2T epoxy to seat the wire and bond the two lure halves.

Here's some pics of baits I've made with Angling AI molds.