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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/25/2022 in Posts

  1. There are a lot of good spinnerbaits out there right now. For me, a good spinnerbait should perform the duty it is meant to do. For example, if you have a spinnerbait mean for burning then it should do that well. That means it should be able to handle high speeds without rolling over or leaning heavily to one side. If it is a slow rolling model, then the blade should spin at very slow speeds without causing much lift. I should be able to crank that lure at least 10 times or more before having to pause slightly for the bait to get back down. An "all-purpose" type bait should be stable at moderate speeds and the blades should spin at relatively slow speeds. Good components, and doing its intended job is what makes a spinnerbait good. If it does all of those things and if used in the correct situation, a good spinnerbait will always catch fish.
    3 points
  2. This is what has worked for me. I wrap the joint hardware with 1/8-1/4 inch wide rubber bands, wrap it tight enough it'll pin the joint and the body segments won't move. Try and spread the bands out to cover while wrapping Some small paint/clear touch up may be needed if the rubber band covers any part of the bait body near the hardware. After it's dried/cured, just cut the bands with an exacto and dig out them out with forceps or tweezers. I'm spraying auto clear now, but have dipped 2 pc baits, half a bait at a time and put on a turner with decent results, 4 oz baits and under with the dipping. When dipping I kept the product off the hardware/bands as much as possible, even using a small brush to fill in tight spots. Hope this helps...
    3 points
  3. Update: I received my order yesterday. I assumed I would never get it and the money was gone. I wasn't too concerned about it, getting invaded by Russia is a valid excuse to not fulfill orders. I was very surprised when I found the box on my doorstep. I ran all 3 aluminum molds today and they shot perfect. I might place another order just to help the cause.
    3 points
  4. When a spinnerbait leans to the side at high speed it is due to a large blade. The faster the bait is retrieved the faster the blade turns and the more torque it creates. Smaller blades on a heavier head will allow you higher speeds without as much force pulling it over to one side. I'm using willow leaf blades as an example here. A typical 1/2oz spinnerbait usually has size #5 or #6 blades, that makes a good "all-purpose" bait. You can slow roll it in shallow water or work it at a moderate pace in the middle of the water column. That spinnerbait is a jack of all trades and master of none but they have a purpose. The larger blades create a lot of flash, so it is a good stained water spinnerbait. In clear water I love burning a spinnerbait, especially for smallmouth. In order to do that I use a 1/2oz head with a single size #4, you can burn that with little to no lean. It is even better if you use a shallow cupped blade.
    2 points
  5. When using beads made of glass and or plastic on larger inlines with blades #5 and larger, casting pressure and impact shock tends to crack glass beads occasionally. Plastic as a bearing bead will work for a while but eventually wear out do to the weight imparted pressure of the blade hitting the water and then slamming back towards the back of the lure upon retrieval. Yes everyone has there preferences but to me a solid brass bead , gold or nickel plated provides the best bearing surface for longevity and performance. If you go to a hollow bead for a lighter or smaller lure the wear factor shortens the durability and life of the lure. When I throw larger inline spinners using # 28 sonic or panther martin type blade , no clevis is required as the shaft runs through the blade and rotates around the shaft on a solid bearing bead in front of a poured lead body, the brass bead bearing behind the blade actually distorts the lead from the pressure and impact from casting and retrieval. Every spinner requires a balanced assortment of components in order for it to work properly that's what makes making your own so challenging and rewarding.
    2 points
  6. I just spray one squirt into the bag before I bag the baits. Makes them easier to bag and the baits absorb it.
    2 points
  7. No sir. I mostly use the steel wool when recoating 2 part epoxy and when recoating or am going to repaint a hard bait to get coatings to stick.
    2 points
  8. I like to use fine steel wool as opposed to fine sandpaper when I need to scuff up the surface for a second coat. You can get 0000 steel wool and I think that if you just get the shine off it provides enough "bite" for the next coat. Sometimes if I use fine sandpaper, it takes off more than I want and has damaged my paint requiring me to start over. After the steel wool I use a cotton ball soaked with denatured alcohol to wipe it down before applying the next coat.
    2 points
  9. I buy the unpainted bodies from LurePartsOnline. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/King-Spin-Heads I prime them with Rustoleum Self Etching Primer, hand paint the heads with Createx airbrush paints, using an artists brush, add the eyes, topcoat with clear fingernail polish, and add the skirts and blades.
    2 points
  10. Sorry, off for a while. IF I feel a need for a 2nd coat, I rub it with alcohol to clean any oil from it and just apply. No scuffing necessary.
    1 point
  11. The ball bearing swivel is held in a small square. I was tired of the pike pulling the willow leaf off. Note never put a black dot ⚫️ on a white blade, a blade doesn’t have a hook. I have had pike and musky hold on to a blade all the way to the boat and let go at the last minute. 86 strands in the skirt, chartreuse gives it a lateral line. Speed up and slow down disrupts the line and causes a strike. The skirt length is long enough to hide the stinger hook. Slide the stinger on and place the plastic tube on after to keep the hook loose in the skirt. A three inch twister tail sticks out the bottom and provides movement when you slow down. The ball bearing swivel allows the willow to spin on the way down. Bend the blades so they propeller easily, another trick. Fish this fast or slow. The modifications work best on a slow retrieve. You can fish this like a jig, the bait will start to have movement as soon as it hits the water. The skirt strands flex on slow jerks and resemble a fish in distress. Worked on this lure and the modifications for ten years, it was always my secret but I am sharing it with you. The original started with an old man in the Kalamazoo Michigan area were it was used against Kevin VanDam when he was a young man. On some evenings this lure beat Kevin in his own backyard. When the man passed, the lure was no longer available so I was forced to purchase the parts from Jann’s Netcraft and started to build my version and make modifications. The skirt with 86 strands was changed when the white rubber changed, originally it was 96 strands of flat rubber. The outside diameter is the same now but the round rubber is stiffer. Food grade silicone will soften the skirt especially after it’s been fished with. so that’s it, everything I did for ten years to take something that was good and made it a little better. This lure will catch fish! I have been known to cut the skirt back to the short length of the original lure and remove the stinger. I have also tied the skirt with chartreuse on top and white on the bottom the two tone works well in murky water. Hammered copper blades work well in the river water. Copper resembles crayfish. so my question is, did I miss anything when it comes to spinner baits?
    1 point
  12. I take the baits apart, No matter how careful I try to be.... it was never good job finishing them. sticking joints, missed finish areas, poor clearance, which turned out to be... at best...to be a learning experience. So now I take everything apart. My .02
    1 point
  13. It's a 3-piece swim bait I wonder if spraying would be better and brush around the sections using KBS, I am worried about bubbles, generally dip but this is my first swim bait. I will use rubber bands and see how that works. Wayne
    1 point
  14. I think a feathered rear treble would help it get bitten.
    1 point
  15. Dang that wouldn't be good then. I just don't have any confidence in a spray scent. I feel like the stuff is gone after a couple casts. I have always wondered this about Googan stuff, guess I'll continue adding my own scent. LOL.
    1 point
  16. Bang anise in the spray bottle, not the can.
    1 point
  17. andy- Recently curiosity and idle hands has got the better of me, so in earnest I have started making lures again (also my tackle box is low) and its time to get the copy machine going (needs a new transformer). So I just Googled "copy lathe" and up came TU and this thread ... I also looked up YouTube to see what was the latest on "copy lathes" and up came this interesting, eccentric character (English of course) . Here he is explaining in simple terms how a copy lathe works (2 x dimensional) while he is building one. Beside myself, I thought you and others may be interested : Enjoy Pete
    1 point
  18. Hillbilly, I think many of us are at least a little strange... I had one of those when I was a kid (before my folks trusted me with a knife) and it was my favorite tool! I loved how I could shape wood with it. Seeing it on here, maybe I'll pick some up for my kids (and me) to work with. Great start! Keep us updated as you progress with this lure.
    1 point
  19. Good call @mark poulson! Here it is sealed, with hooks and hangers dry-fit, and ready for the test tank.
    1 point
  20. Well I did some experimenting with the advice and got the problem solved Reducing hold time to 10 seconds and lower the temp on the mold itself did the trick thanks
    1 point
  21. Nice scent, can't really call it other than it's a HEAVY anise base.
    1 point
  22. Drat! Now where will I get all my illicit male enhancement product? ;O)
    1 point
  23. Erick, here's a picture of one that's been eaten a lot.
    1 point
  24. I'm sorry if this is the wrong forum for this, but it is wire bait related. I fish spinnerbaits on the CA Delta a lot. Even though I wrap wire around the R bend, they do eventually get weak and bend out. I've figured out how to salvage them, because they are still good enough to fish. I cut the weakened wire at the R bend, grab the remaining wire about 1/4" in front of the head with a pair of round jawed pliers. I hold the wire near the cut off R bend with needle nosed vise grips, and wrap the wire back down over the round bend pliers, forming a loop that's in line with the hook, and just beginning down past the wire. I put the wire loop that's formed into the sooth jaws of a bench vise, and then use the wise grips to wrap the wire tag end around the wire between the loop and the head, forming a closed eye loop. I try and wrap it twice around, just to play safe. Once I've removed the vise grips and made sure the eye is straight, I use a dremel with a cut off wheel to trim off the excess close to the main wire. And now I have a swim jig! Since I wire wrap my skirts, and the head's paint job is seldom damaged, it's ready to fish, except for the weed guard, which I make from weed whacker plastic wire that I super into into a hole I drill in the top of the bait's head. I can also put a chatter bait blade onto the wire once the loop is started, but not yet wrapped around the main wire shaft. Just stuff to do with old, tired spinnerbaits.
    1 point
  25. Yes they do. I traded a 4" heart throb hula grub mold for some crappie molds about a month ago only because i wasn't using it. It was like every other mold i have from Josh & it was outstanding. Ain't going wrong with angling ai for sure.
    1 point
  26. The good part, when the spinner was reeled at the normal speed it ran very well. To my eyes I believe it spun faster than any other lure I tested. But it has many negative's. At a slower speed trying to just roll the blade over it would not start. Blade stayed close to the wire. Tried to jerk the spinner it would not start. Only fast speed made it work. Well nothing ventured nothing gained. Learned a great deal from you posts. Thanks for everything.
    1 point
  27. Probably, though I have yet to get flexible filament to work for me (yet), it's sort of like playing pool with a rope.
    1 point
  28. I'm still stuck trying to figure out 3D glasses!
    1 point
  29. For shaping I only rough things out with a knife then switch to a rasp with a coarse/fine combination. You can remove a lot of material with the coarse side. The fine side it eliminates a lot of sanding and removes the ridges The one I use is double sided. One side curved the other is flat here is a pic of one but the fine side is getting worn down because I have had it a long time By far my favorite shaping tool
    1 point
  30. Glass beads work great. And so does Salt .I use a mixture of the two to get the ballast I’m looking for. I will say this,if you use say soft plastic and add salt or glass beads. If you add softner to it . You will use a different amount of it depending on the ballast used . From my own experience I have found I can use less with the beads than I can with salt. From a use standpoint the beads will produce a far more durable bait than the salted one . Many folks here will agree with that.
    1 point
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