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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/24/2020 in Posts

  1. Exx1976 - I do not understand you. I have refrained from posting this sentiment before. You put a lot of effort in, making excellent contributions to the TU community, gaining a lot of respect. And then, you seem to have a brain fart and chop someone off at the knees for very little reason. I am not blame free, I too have had my moments of indiscretion. I suggest you think your more acidic replies through before hitting the reply button! Dave
    11 points
  2. Possibly inspired by divine intervention or alien telepathic communication, you come up with a great idea for a lure. You spend several hours shaping the body. It comes out perfectly symmetrical. The lip slot is perfectly straight. You seal the bait and get the perfect ballast placement in your test tub. You drill the ballast hole and have no wood splintering. After installing the ballast, you re-seal the lure for added protection. You are so excited about your creation you decide to take the lure to the unfrozen portion of a small river on a cloudy dreary 30 degree day to test the action. Yo
    7 points
  3. here are some videos, not the best but you get the idea. https://youtu.be/KPsVzycUTf0 https://youtu.be/YY0KLwPxOkY https://youtu.be/XjENNdaTFR4
    6 points
  4. As I do not build gliders or jerk baits, all that I can do is throw a lot of theory out there, to help you understand how the lure works. Understanding the theory helps the builder to design a lure to take advantage of the forces accordingly. Of course, experienced glider builders will have already figured this stuff out even if they do not know the reasons why their lures work. Experience is a valuable tool, theory only gives you a ‘leg up’ at the start. As you have already figured out, this is a very complex issue with multiple factors to be taken in to consideration. The appar
    6 points
  5. In my post about getting the screw eye holes in the EXACT middle of the lure, I had mentioned a jig I made for use with a flush trim bit on a router table. It occurred to me that some folks might like to see it. So, here it is: Used 1/2" plywood for the base, and did the profile for the back of the lure on the band saw and then the belt sander. Drilled 5/16" holes, then used a forstner bit to recess the heads of the t-bolts so it would sit flat on the router table and the t-bolts wouldn't scratch things up. Used a 3/8" trim bit to rou
    5 points
  6. Gained about $2000 or more in sales last year just by giving away a handful of blemish lures at lakes that cost me maybe $100 in materials. It’s even better when the father of the kid calls me to buy some lures because his kid out fished him that day. Nothing sells lures better then fisherman seeing them catch fish I tell every kid that I give a lure to it’s their lure and Dad is not allowed to use it Think of it as investing in advertisement
    5 points
  7. @Skeeter what I know that is different about it is that it was designed to have no toxic fumes because several well known lure makers had died of cancer and Joe, the guy that developed it, did so as a response to that. As far as anything about the product that makes it more suited to lure making I am not sure. It does work like a charm though. First time using it and I got the best, nearly flawless topcoat I’ve ever gotten:
    5 points
  8. Rubbish, the dolphin showed no interest in the lure what so ever! Just kidding, great work, looks amazing Dave
    5 points
  9. Here is a gill detail I came up with ( at least have not seen before ) , I am making a top water and flat sided crankbait and will be layering a light color next to collar and darker on top for contrast . Think this will be cool detail
    4 points
  10. If one person was always right he/she would own the fishing industry, but that is not the case!! We all have had great years followed by not so great years.... as conditions change from year to year so does the fishing.
    4 points
  11. Like most opinion pieces put out by fisherman I believe some of it holds merit but a lot of it is just opinion biased on his fishing style My opinion attraction is based on flicker/flash, noise/vibration and overall visibility true triggering traits are that show weakness/opportunity or create the fish to fear a loss of opportunity. Weakness is a pause, fall, or small twitch showing struggles to move. Drawing on a now or never response is a long pull/jerk, variation in speed and veering to the side Above is the main factors I consider when creating a lure and what I choose to
    4 points
  12. I work for a large company in a product development role. I can tell you this, the bigger the company the less they care if the product "works" right. What they need to do is sell stuff profitably good bad or otherwise. Most have great ideas internally that never see daylight due to timing, market or whatever. Personally if i had a great bait that i could reproduce consistent quality catches and is manufacturable, you'd be better off doing an LLC. There is enough power in social media these days to not need the big companies anymore. Its a great time for entrepreneurs imho.
    4 points
  13. Let me rephrase that. They come out of the mold & they are oilier when warm until they've had time tocool & cure, but after a little time i really like the results. I think it's a little clearer than the calhouns too. Anyway it being a different plastic & me getting use to the slight differences between it & calhouns i'm completely satisfied with the baitplastics stuff.
    4 points
  14. Gliders will glide better if tapered, better as in farther. The more torpedo shaped the better in that respect. A lipped crank bait can be either, but as Hillbilly said, shape can and will change action (some better and some worse).
    4 points
  15. I have a different opinion on what it takes to do this for a living. If you don’t like what you are doing now then it makes it easier to maybe change. While all the other posts are spot on there is another option. While it’s nice to have your own product and put them in shops you could on the other hand pour for someone who has the task of selling them. Most people here will tell you it is very hard to make a profit making baits but I know some who make a lot of money doing so. And it is much more than you might think. I will not mention exact numbers because you need to know that it is a lot
    4 points
  16. First you need to be brutally honest with the numbers. Many guys aren't. The time spent, the cost of materials, etc.. all end up disappearing when they think about how much they are making. One also need to look at what they really make at their job including benefits. I will use the average US salary of 38K (I don't consider this as a well paying job). Currently I get health insurance, dental and vision insurance, 10 paid holidays, 4 weeks paid vacation, sick time, short term disability, long term disability, 401 k match, social security, gym membership, life insurance, bonus, and ot
    4 points
  17. I wouldn't be concerned with the tape, but with what’s under it. Raw wood? Foam? Expanded pvc trim? I make wood baits and foil them. There has to be a waterproof/gas proof coating under the foil or any heating of the lure will cause outgassing and bubbled foil (whether heated by you when finishing the lure or by the user storing the lure in a hot compartment).
    4 points
  18. I guess if I was in the lure business, mine would be labelled 'NOT made in USA'. Dave
    4 points
  19. JD - The spherical domain enclosed by the tall man's spell of 4πr³/3 is an intriguing and fascinating subject. It is the simplest shape and yet the most difficult to carve. I have actually experimented with spherically derived shapes and the resulting actions are interesting. If you pull a sphere through water you get a pure spiral action. I do most of my cranial development work while sleeping, so you could say that I work in an alternative universe Dave
    4 points
  20. You are correct and many would find making baits is a losing endeavor if they put any dollar value on their time. Building cranks one off is about the least efficient way to make cranks. Multiples pay off as less time is wasted setting up tools, measurements, etc.. Some aspects are rather quick so may just knock out a bunch of blanks for future use. May take 30 minutes and drill all the hook hanger and belly weights, etc.. (jig holds the blank in position on drill press). I will just keep blanks in plastic shoe boxes or shallow tool box trays in different stages. If ti
    4 points
  21. People do not buy hand made baits because they are cheap, they buy because the lure is unique and of the highest quality. Your bait has to gain a reputation for catching MORE fish than the chunk of plastic on the shelf at Walmart. Yes, you need a pro angler on board who believes in your lure. A Kevin Van Dam is not going to get the job done, people will not attribute his success to the lure but to the man himself. I would take my lure to a struggling pro, get him to try the lure, prove that it is a fish magnet, then you can both retire on the lure's success. Only my opinion; cha
    4 points
  22. This is a tale of multiple ‘happy accidents’ making a memorable lure. I have a bond with this lure that is tempting me to not retire it, even though it belongs on the wall now. My favorite lure is one I call Dicky Moe after the whale in a Tom & Jerry cartoon. The cartoon whale was the first thing I thought of when the lure was finished. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bttiQVVweJE It is all white, 9.75” long, and weighs 3.1 oz. without the hooks. The bait came out longer than expected because I forgot to take into account the joint gaps would add close to an inch of length
    4 points
  23. If those are your first baits man you are well on your way! They look great. In my day job I am a network engineer so I can appreciate the fact that you used the two sides from an old computer case for your painting booth. That's awesome man:) You have for sure found yourself in the land of bait makers here. Everyone here is extremely helpful and listening to their advice will only make you better at this amazing hobby. There have been so many good tips provided here and I'd like to give you a couple as well. Just a couple of tips to make things easier for you I guess. I used to have HP
    4 points
  24. There are a bunch of different types of lipless crankbaits. A flatfish is just one type of many different types of lipless cranks. The one in your pic was a common style years ago similar to the Heddon Bayou Boogie, Pico Chico, Storm Whiz Bang, Buckeye Shad Lipless Crank. Poe's also made a lipless back in the day similar to your pic. Although some of the older style baits are still being sold, that older style seems to have fallen out of favor since the Rattle Trap type baits gained in popularity. Your pic does have the line tie lower than most of the older baits. The pictured lure'
    4 points
  25. RPM - It must have been a huge buoyancy force to have that effect, as you stated. The other clue is the 'thumping' action. This is an indication that the lure is swimming at a very steep angle. The drag from the lip is very high but the down force is small. The optimum angle is around 45 degrees for maximum depth. This smaller angle presents less lip, so less thump but more down force. To achieve this, your tow eye needs to go further forward. Dave
    4 points
  26. Easy.... You have to invest in machinery and tooling and take the human element out of it.
    4 points
  27. Just wanted to send a thanks out to all the peeps who answer the same questions over and over for those of us just starting out, the money you guys save us newbies is one of the only ways we can afford to get into this hobby! I’ve been reading the forum for a month or so, this is my first post. Haven’t really needed to ask anything, you guys have covered everything I can come up with. Thanks again, really appreciate it!
    4 points
  28. 051 would be a good diameter..you could go up to 062 but that would be a bear to bend...Nate
    4 points
  29. I've tried the adhesive backs stuff.... like hvac tape and such - WAY thicker than the stuff I'm using. For something large or a flat side crank the HVAC stuff is not bad - but no where near as "flexible" for the really contoured stuff. I use a light spray of Super 77 - then press this thin foil down, working it with my fingers to get it as flat as I can over half the bait.... I then use popsicle sticks I've sanded/shaped to press and burnish it down into the details and rub flat the wrinkles as best I can. In some instances this stuff will rip if your a little too physical with it....
    4 points
  30. Most of the major brands have a wide array of colors. It is hard to just single out one brand. SK has a lot of colors I like. 6th Sense makes some nice ones too. When I make a lure, the color just comes down to personal preference or perhaps to fill a hole in the color spectrum that I can’t buy elsewhere. I repaint some brand name lures with black or black with blue flake because that color is hard to find in a hard bait. At night, dawn/dusk, and in muddy water, black is usually a great choice. A lot of people use a certain color based on confidence. I think that becomes a self-fulli
    4 points
  31. Good reply Anglinarcher. My prey are bawal, a deep bodied very aggressive fish, which explains why I only need a belly hook. Dave
    4 points
  32. Tough question for sure, and a lot of personal opinion is involved. Personally I think it depends on the size of lure, the type of fish you are after, even the type of lure you are making. I should take more time to explain myself on this, but this is the short version. (This could take a chapter of a book to explain) On species that are less aggressive, like many freshwater trout species, I find that the tail hook is important. On larger lures, lures that often work much better than people think, the trout will tail tug or test the lure first and tail hooks really up-the-catch rate.
    4 points
  33. I have two new lure building spreadsheet tools available: 1 - TU resin lure calc – Designed to help with the amount of filler (MBs) and ballast required to achieve the required buoyancy without having to resort to many trial and error builds. 2 - TU wood lure calc – As above but designed for carved lures (wood, PVC or other). Many members have the Ballast Calculator, an older tool. I feel that No2 above is a better tool for this job as it takes into account internal and external hardware as well as ballast. So if anyone requests the Ballast Calculator in future, I will del
    4 points
  34. Check out this video from Jekyll Baits on YouTube, seems like she achieves a similiar effect.
    4 points
  35. I use one of two ways, depending whether the bait is one part or jointed. For one part I use papertrick, shown below. First, I trace the bait to a peace of paper and cut it out. Then I fold it in half, find the balancing point and press my pen through. Then I mark the point to my bait. Easy way to find center of gravity for one part bait. For jointed baits, I always find the CoG for each segments. I could use this paper trick to find the center but then there's an weight distribution problems... So I use this method below instead. I'll
    4 points
  36. Weather is acting up so no testing yet for my lightened spoon. It means, I'll go forward with this design. Kinda mimicked an Roach fish here. Pretty basic color scheme, just a tad of fluoriscent red, blue and green on the sides which shows depending the lighting. Next step would be obviously epoxy coating but also making the stinger setup. Not sure how much it inhibits the swimming action but we'll see. Have to test with fluorocarbon, leader wire and Kevlar thread would also be one option. I know all of these are being used in these kind of baits so just have to test which
    4 points
  37. SB paints dry fairly quick, usually you can handle them in 5 to 10 minutes. Dry time is affected by how much paint you lay down and ambient conditions as well. Some residual tail solvent will take longer to completely leave and it is recommended to let them dry over night before packing if doing so. As far as the other Post there is something else going on as it shouldnt be tacky, need more info on that one. See above. Same applies to for all SB paints as Clear 3000. The addition of SB Coat Retarder if needed will slow dry time, the amount added will determine the final dry time. The p
    4 points
  38. I would love to jump in on this post, but everything I want to say has already been said. Dave
    4 points
  39. Here is my first attempt , not the most symmetrical . Next time I will glue the two ends of gills before putting in place . Turned out pretty cool , Thanks guys More pics in galley
    3 points
  40. SlowFish that is the lure I mentioned in an earlier post, thanks for sharing that. There was a video on youtube several years ago that showcased and explainted the theroy and reasoning, along with action and results. Very cool. azsouth, great work explaining how you arrived at your conclusion. Several years ago when I had the test tank I had planned on trying something like this, never got around to it, to busy I guess, but great work anyway and thanks for sharing. Dave, I think we talked about this sometime ago, I was on a Japaneese Crankbiat kick and then swithced to your Hunting t
    3 points
  41. Just because you don't know the answer does not make the question 'stupid', in fact, the opposite is true As for the answer, I think it is side injection. Dave
    3 points
  42. Search the form for ballast calculator. There have been many discussions on this in the past about buoyancy and density and weight etc.. Here is an example Epoxy weight and/or density? Buoyancy spreadsheet questions - Hard Baits - TackleUnderground.com If you know the density of the material you are using based on the grams per centimeters cubed measurement, you can use the woods weight in grams, or volume in cm cubed to figure out exactly how much lead would get you to achieve neutral buoyancy. Then you could add/subtract as you desire. This is all based on Archimedes pri
    3 points
  43. UKandy, On Bass plugs kinda the same here. My Balsa baits do vary and it really does depend on the lot of Balsa, I've built suspending baits and used 4.5 - 6.5 grams, but swithced or ordered a different lot of wood and seen it change + or minus 1/2 gram, then getting real technical Ive ordered hooks from same mfg, same hook and seen similar changes. I'm not an expert on Balsa but I do know there are several densities that will effect your builds. I bought a fairly large lot several years ago and it was suppose to be the same density, it was not and it took me forever to get it figured out
    3 points
  44. Only if they have money...
    3 points
  45. I use 1/4" and 3/16" lead wire, so all I have to do is drill that size hole, and super glue in the correct weight of wire. Here is one source, but there are others online: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bullet-weights-lead-wire?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Shop|Generic|AllProducts|High|SSCCatchAll&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4EtgIb3rOqrUGUiDN1LzC_kIEFWfbGsqSVf0GUJPMuyGigThCO48_rcaAlAbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
    3 points
  46. Sealing? NO Base coating? normally yes to get a good paint job.
    3 points
  47. I like double pin joints, this gives maximum freedom to the hinge as one joint has two pivots. Strength-wise, the load is distributed along the length of the pin, perpendicular to the pull direction, you would have to rip the lure in half to break it. There are so many joint solutions and I cannot say that any are particularly bad. Whether a joint will fail or not all comes down to your design; screw-eyes too short, area around pin to thin, inadequate sealing, etc. Hinges are all about free movement, even the slightest resistance to movement will cancel out the action. Rear facing V-
    3 points
  48. Hello anglers friends, greetings from Peru. It has passed long time since my last visit to the Forum. I hope you all and your families are doing well. After more than three years without posting any video of my work in my Youtube channel, I restarted again to work on one of my favorites hobbies which is lure making. I want to share the last lures that I’m making for trout fishing at my homeshop. I think that the passion and emotion that every angler who ties or make a wooden lure is the same. Our common dream is to catch our beautiful preys with something done by ourselves.
    3 points
  49. I hate to always be the wet blanket when it comes to screw wire vs thru wire, but in my opinion, if you are making a premium lure for muskies or pike, it should always be thru wire. Screw eyes are plenty strong when new, but after fishing with a lure for a year or two, almost no amount of finish will be able to withstand rocks and fish. If there is any moisture ingress or if the threads 'crack' loose from the glue that's holding the screw, it can pull out. Sorry, it just bugs me seeing musky lures that go for 100+$ dollars, and they have screw in hardware. This is the result. A l
    3 points
  50. It's official, I'm fully converted to Bait Plastics. I have been using 242 and 262. Both are awesome as far as durability and action goes. They held up well and caught fish on my recent trip. With free and fast shipping times, its hard to beat them IMO.
    3 points
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