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  1. Temp & speeds are pretty crucial when shooting plastics. Heat it to 350 & shoot quick. Like said above heat the injector if it's cold. I mix in colorant & flake most times before heating unless i'm making a totally new color that i haven't figured out the mixture yet. This way i prepare the mix, heat to 350 & inject like a well-oiled machine more or less & seldom have any problems at all. The more you do it the more you'll get your system worked out & the problems pretty much become a non issue.
    3 points
  2. Then take your marbles and go play somewhere else if all you're going to do is complain about them. I'm not 100% up to date with this stuff. Fat Guys would be a solid place to get it though. I believe Jeff stopped because of that and they jacked his pricing up on him. I do know that anything Calhoun is the previous formula they've had for years. when they tweaked it everyone complained, including the production customers.
    2 points
  3. When I used to make jointed swimbaits, I found that the key to keeping them stable at higher retrieve speeds was to make the body taper from top to bottom, creating a V cross section. In my case, my swimbaits tapered from 7/8" at the top/back to 5/8" at the bottom/belly. This kept more buoyancy higher in the lure body, so I could put less ballast into the belly and still get the stable retrieve at higher speeds. I actually started the taper about a third of the way down from the shoulders of the bait, as you can see in this picture" It doesn't look like much, but it worked, so I could burn my swimbaits without them rolling.
    2 points
  4. This is what I think of when I think crawfish.....
    2 points
  5. One of the old school hollow swimbait techniques (kinda like a BassTrix) was to use a butter knife with the light serrations ground off and the edge rounded over. If they wanted a conventional looking tail they just cut it that way. If they wanted a paddle tail they would split a Colorado blade part way and solder or braze it to the knife. One of the parts suppliers even started selling dipping blades with the tail blade already attached.
    2 points
  6. I have no Idea - But it sounds like the rod u dip with would need a wide spot in the belly area. If that makes sense?
    2 points
  7. You may want to heat your injector as your plastic heats. I stick mine on a hot plate.
    2 points
  8. Agree above, Sounds like things are getting cooled off to soon. Not the product at all.
    2 points
  9. Ok, package came on lunch while I was at work today. I shot home quick, mixed the plastisol up good, poured a cup and popped in in the microwave for 3:40 total. I can say it's not not degassed, lots of bubbles. Not a big deal as the Calhouns/FGF flavor is much the same for me (it smells like Calhouns to me too). My degasser is down so I had to let it sit in the micro for a few minutes. most of the bubbles rose and popped. I also got 3 of their colorants (GP, Watermelon, Junebug). I chose Junebug, dropped 40 in the cup and it was thin, like.....MF thin. 90 drops to a cup got me the semi transparent Junebug I like for the Northeast. It has a little more purple than blue, which I like. The Em Grn flake picked up nicely. I cant say I WOULDNT buy it again....just wouldnt be my first choice of plastisol. I'll shoot the GP and Watermelon this week and post up those pics. Sorry for the blurry one.....phone wouldnt focus. My prefered plastisols in order are still: 1. Bait Plastics Low Odor 2. Calhouns/FGF 3. Dead On 4. Ozark Tackle 5. Do-It I havent tried MF, Lureworks, Barlows, or Lurecraft yet.
    2 points
  10. I picked up a cheap meat grinder from harbor freight. It works really good and I think it was around $30.00.
    2 points
  11. Just a guess but it looks like the white powder was sprinkled in the mold cavity then the base color was shot.
    2 points
  12. I shape (including ballast holes adding hardware hangers) and seal my baits with penetrating epoxy (epoxy thinned with alcohol), add ballast as needed to get them to suspend, seal the ballast holes, paint, and finish. For me, the paint and topcoat don't effect the suspension enough to worry about.
    2 points
  13. While not sure what a corky is, I think you might be looking for The Holy Grail. If plastic is soft, it's not firm, and if it's soft most likely it's not durable. The durable plasitisols would be the flex type, stretch type, or saltwater types. Too soft and they rip apart off the hook. Too firm and you probably won't get the action you're looking for. Once your baits have a chance to cure, about 24 hours or so, you can bag them up with whatever scent you choose, and after a while the baits will be impregnated with the scent. I make a 50/50 mix of scent and worm oil to bag mine. Then sprinkle with salt. As far as your plastic, you may have to spend some time researching. Some suppliers do sell sample sets. Bait Plastic.com being one of them. Don't forget to order softener and hardener to custom make exactly what you want. Another suggestion. MF Plastisol. Get the flex or med flex, and use the hardener or softener to adjust. and remember to right down your recipes. When making baits, there is no none size fits all.
    2 points
  14. I decided to use some high temp silicone to block the hook channel. It worked great.
    1 point
  15. Looks like if you extend the loop out the right side insead of the left and y ou should be golden. Arne.
    1 point
  16. Very nice work on your new ones Eastman. They look great!
    1 point
  17. VMC6317 can be used, but requires some modification to the mold. Mods can be done in such a way that Victory 10777 can still be used.
    1 point
  18. I was just getting ready to test a new custom mold for a customer. While I was doing so I looked through all my sample bottles from Bait Plastics. (I bought two of their sampler pack) There does not appear to be a super soft formula or a sinking formula, so if I were to pick them for my Club-Os for this season I would certainly have up my salt content and add softner. Hopefully my order from MF arrives soon, so I can test their soft sinking in the Easy Stretch formula.
    1 point
  19. It means that a size 4 all the way through a size 2/0 will fit in that cavity in the specific style of hook. All sizes between and including the numbers.
    1 point
  20. Not yet. I'm experimenting. I always made my Club-Os with MF Soft Sinking 4:1 salt ratio. Sink rate was perfect, and only very slightly stiffer than Senkos(tm). My goal was the easiest possible formula work to fish ratio. I've got big fish checks, place and win money, and a few hundred+ fish days with them, so I figured it was good enough. Now it seems to be gone except for a gallon or two in my big jug, and I am looking for a new easy formula. When I make Club-Os I make a lot, so I don't run out to quickly. I did order some softner, but I hope to find a mix that is "good enough" without it like my old mix is.
    1 point
  21. I made some “craw” colored neds last summer using root beer dye with black and red flake. Thought it turned out pretty good. Add a little red highlight powder for grins and it made it look more like that very orange craw color with some shimmer to it. The highlight baits are on the right in this pic.
    1 point
  22. I've never had a problem with their plastic at all. You can get degassed. You can call them & ask pretty much anything you want or you can look for any post by McLuvin on here & shoot him a message too.
    1 point
  23. I have been making these a few ways Best is lead wire wrapped on the hook shank, up to 1/8" works. Also used pinch on sinker direct on the shank, some are better than others, i prefer thinner and sleek. They work better than rubber core and have a smoother taper I have heat shrunk lead strips, toothpick weights, ss screws, and lashed former to hook shank with old braided line, for the over the nose weights. I will be attempting a lead mold to make them neater and hopefully a little easier to rig on the plastics, will report back Kevinj
    1 point
  24. I’ve switched to it for most of my Ned fishing, which is a lot from October to May. A tid bit… While fishing a stretch in Piney Creek on Table Rock Lake I lost 15 Ned rigs as I don’t go into a fishy area to get a bait back. After I bought that mold I fished the same water with the new head and only lost 2. That sold me. I also furnish heads for my neighbor since he springs for the gasoline. (Those lost heads had a sevelon weedguard.) Thanks for the suggestions guys. I’ll check the mold and lower the temp, though I can’t go down much and keep a good flow.
    1 point
  25. I agree with Bass-Boys on the belly made onto them. . You could take bolts & weld & shape a belly on them or use jb weld to make them.
    1 point
  26. Hi Jig Man and cadman. First I want to thank you both for readily sharing your knowledge and helping noobs like myself. As for the topic at hand...I modified my weedless MWF mold to use VMC6317 in addition to the Victory 10777. I am not getting runs along the hook shaft with either. The VMC hook actually have a smaller shaft diameter (0.038" vs 0.040" for the 10777). I run my lead at 700F. So maybe 750 is a bit too hot?
    1 point
  27. Oops, I'm sorry, I didn't know they had a different Midwest Finesse mold. I don't have that mold. I guess you can still check some of the things I mentioned above. BTW, how well do you do with that jig head? You can PM me as well. Thanks
    1 point
  28. Jig Man, I pour mostly hard lead in that mold in hopes of getting the keeper from loosening up and it doesn't help but I don't have lead going up the hook shank. Also I don't use Victory hooks. Couple things could make this happen. #1 The Victory hooks are thinner than the shank cavity in your mold leaving a gap and the hot lead is seeping through. If you have always used Victory hooks, maybe a new batch and the hooks are thinner or maybe a couple of hooks are thinner in the current batch? Just guessing here. #2 You have some lead or foreign substance on one of your mold halves that is gapping your mold causing lead to seep through. On the latter, take a single edge razor blade and lightly run the blade across both mold halves. This might dislodge any foreign substance that you may not readily see. Once done check your pour. On the first one, if you have a different brand hook check to see if you have the same problem. Post your results when you find your solution.
    1 point
  29. A “natural” crayfish can vary in color from region to region. They also take on different hues throughout the year as they molt and spawn. Try a google search for crayfish in your region to get an idea. The standard crayfish if you will, I’d go with a laminate of pumpkin seed over a tan (I use DeadOn grit color and tweak it with other colors as needed). I’d also look at MF motor oil, MF chartreuse pumpkin or MF green pumpkin brown. You could further drive yourself insane by incorporating some brown highlight to the above. As for glitter, black for sure along with red and/or orange.
    1 point
  30. I use eyescrews anywhere from .062 thru .092 thickness, from 3/4 inch long to 1.5 inch long depending on the size lure. You can find them at Barlows, Lurepartsonline, and Jann's Necraft, all tackle hardware suppliers, or Ebay. I'm making 6-10 inch swimbaits.
    1 point
  31. A local TV station shot a video of me tinkering with my year 'round hobby of lure and tackle making. Thanks Tackleunderground.com forum members and contributors for your guidance. I've included a link. https://www.kcrg.com/2023/02/24/cedar-rapids-Tuna-improve-his-lures/
    1 point
  32. Thanks for all the n input.
    1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. Not a fan of their plastisol, never had good luck with it. I'd suggest a gallon of Bait Plastics 242, low bubbles and REAL forgiving to work with. Heat to 350-360, add colorant & flake, then make sure you are injecting around 315-330 deg. After you get your color & flake right, if you dont re-heat you may be shooting at too low a temp & the plastisol is too cool. You dont have to hold too long on your injector either, a few seconds is all thats needed. Top off the sprue and move on to the next one. I always put the cup back in the micro too, keep it warmer longer and allows any leftover bubbles to go away.
    1 point
  35. I shipped 2 dozen bottles of colorant I never used from NY to MI via USPS. I electrical taped the lids, put the bottles in plastic bags and left the air in for a cushion. I also lined the box with bubble wrap and paper. Never had an issue. I'd also be interested in what you have to offload. Praying for your health man.
    1 point
  36. Big scissors or a hand crank grinder. Hobo Freight & Wally world should have something cheap.
    1 point
  37. I'm just a hobby bait maker making about 500 baits a year for myself and friends. I use just plain every day 1qt. slide lock bag from Walmart. They come in boxes of 75. Never had one leak or dissolve, disintegrate, or whatever. I've got some with salted oiled and scented baits going on 4 years now without any problems. When I was buying commercial bags I believe it was from either LureCraft or Barlows.. There is a big seller out there of all types of packaging materials. ULINE. Check them out Send for their catalog ( it's huge ). You should be able to find something in there. Otherwise most bait making suppliers have bags of all sizes, double laminated, with tabs for hanging on hooks. https://www.uline.com/
    1 point
  38. BP sells crushed glass. Works good for me and doesnt weaken the baits as bad as salt.
    1 point
  39. Never mind. I finally dislodged the obstruction.
    1 point
  40. This. But be aware the more color you'll need and even though the blend may be a "super soft", you'll still need to add softener. If you really want to get to know the weight of your baits get yourself a cheap digital scale from Amazon. One that can be set to weigh grams. I use MF plastic, and I find that I use 6oz of plastic, and add enough salt to raise the volume to 8oz. And remember to write your recipes down.
    1 point
  41. I've found that decoupage epoxy, like what is used for bar tops, works best for my wooden baits, because it is designed to move with the wood's expansion and contraction. For small plastic baits, Devcon 2 ton, which is a glue epoxy and designed to be rigid, will work, but it cracks on bigger wooden baits.
    1 point
  42. A agree with Big E. I use Tupelo for floating swimbaits and poplar for sinking ones because of the buoyancy. I just made a 7” three piece floater with Tupelo and it’s taking a crapload of lead just to balance it.
    1 point
  43. You should be able to click on My eBay (on the top ) and click Purchase History.
    1 point
  44. Another is duck feathers. They are not legal to buy sell trade for adornment/jewlery/clothing, but legally harvested they may be for "fishing lures." There are some interesting natural colors available in duck feathers. A neighbor who hunts may be willing to give you some. Especially if you help clean. You may even go home with a couple ducks for dinner, but don't count on that last part.
    1 point
  45. I've seen a lot of people use maple or poplar for swimbaits. Something very buoyant like cedar, redwood, or basswood will take a ton of lead, whereas something more dense won't need nearly as much. A tradeoff is the maple is much harder to carve than basswood. A lot of people will use different types of wood for different types of baits, and wood density can have a significant impact on lure function. The buoyancy of the wood works with the drag of the lip on crankbaits to impart action, gliders use the mass of the bait and the hydrodynamics of the profile to create a good glide, and so it goes.
    1 point
  46. M-F has been a supplier of my favorite plastic in different grades for 20yrs. When a good product become unavailable, for whatever reason, I watch for its return. A popular company that has supplied thousands of gallons over many years should be given a break -no questions asked. When a good company + products is back up - for whatever reason sevice was suspended - I'm ready to resume ordering and relieved that I can. There is a need to stay with what fulfills one's needs and M-F has always done that for me. Bad companies on the other hand, due to inconsistent quality either in service or product, I will not recommend and in fact will warn others about MY expericences. Two strikes and they're out! To each his own. No argument necessary.
    1 point
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