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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/03/2022 in all areas

  1. I like to Texas rig a square of toilet paper on the line ahead of the bait for realism . Big Bass usually slam this rig up as soon as it hits the water with strikes that sound like a toilet flushing .
    5 points
  2. This is my version. This is the first bait I painted after getting an airbrush a bunch of years back. Never thrown it, was just for fun.
    4 points
  3. Yes, that is the plan. I am working with all the same suppliers that Dinger did, and plan to carry all the same products and maybe a few others if they prove worthy. I paint as well and have been a customer of Dinger for several years, so I know the quality is better and that is one of the reasons I wanted to keep the company going. It will take some time for me to have the full lineup in stock but I will get there. Eric
    3 points
  4. Thanks for all the feedback guys. My first attempt came out amazing, just couldn’t capture it in a photo. In person you can see it clearly as you rotate it.
    3 points
  5. Get A Harbor Freight oilless pancake with a regulator. Probably $70 - $90. The hose the powder sprayer comes with should attach directly as the fitting is 1/4NPT.
    3 points
  6. I totally understand. I haven’t done it in a long time. I have gotten too lazy.
    2 points
  7. I found a guy at one of our local tackle shops that is going to be putting some on the wall this week. He said he's making a small run and setting a couple aside for me. We'll see how it goes!
    2 points
  8. "Moo Gloo", it's on amazon.
    2 points
  9. 2 points
  10. MF & Lurecraft make a floating plastic. BP/Polysol soft formulas float as well. Everything else we've tested is either a neutral buoyancy or slow sinking. Chemionics advertises a floating formula but it's more neutral & complete junk like the stuff they produce for Dead On.
    2 points
  11. Instead of glitter...they should use corn.
    2 points
  12. I love it when we can find good local connections!
    1 point
  13. wow a lotta history. i started from watching my dad,in the 1950,s.after chasing girls and marriage i started.my passion soon became a job..from buyouts,travelling fom canada to bagley bait co. we did re-paints and building baits for the toothy critters up here on l.st clair..life now is slower near 70 still building and passing things on to my son and the younger folks.remember every failure becomes a learning curve to succsess.this site is an awesome curve for the future and present builders.
    1 point
  14. This guy on etsy has a Squarebill called "Sunrise" that looks pretty similar: https://www.etsy.com/shop/Barebassbaits?ref=shop_sugg
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. They spin because there isn't enough weight to counteract the inertia of the blade. You may try using a heavier spinner body or and offset-weight spinner body that's crimped to the thruwire. There was a spinner made a while back that had a body similar to a rooster tail, but the wire went through it at a slight angle resulting in a 'bottom weighted' style spinner.
    1 point
  18. Maybe you could try to add transglutaminase. It is an enzyme that binds proteins. It is available from those molecular cooking places. Also known as "meat glue"
    1 point
  19. So I was browsing here and I saw a lot of posts talking about there if resin being tacky after curing. I don’t have any experience using it as a clear coat( I literally have my first test piece in my uV box now) I do have some decent resin printing experience. Sometime resin prints have the same issue being tacky after curing. This happens because oxygen inhibits the reaction that causes the resin to harden. The method in resin printing is to submerge the piece in water and then stick it under uv in a clear container of corse. This prevents the oxygen from contacting the outside layer and lets it cure. Obviously this would have to be done after it sets up. If I ever encounter this problem I will test and post back here but if anyone runs into that issue try that.
    1 point
  20. I tried a gelatin/glycerin base the baits look great and fill good but melt way too fast looking another formula
    1 point
  21. Hello! I would like to share with you the news that Dinger Baits is under new ownership, and now goes by Fishhead Custom Lures. I recently bought the company and am in the process of building up inventory. Website launched a couple weeks ago at www.Fishheadcustomlures.com I intend to carry all the same great, high quality products and provide the same great customer service that Dinger Baits was known for. It will take some time for me to have the entire lineup in stock, but I have a decent amount of blanks and eyes to choose from, with more on the way Feel free to reach out if you have any questions, please sign up for the email list for updates. I promise I won't spam you, I haven't sent any emails out as of yet... Please give a follow on social media as I will post updates on there as well: fishhead custom lures on facebook and @fishhead15 on instagram Thank you! I look forward to hearing from you! Eric
    1 point
  22. 2 wraps of 20-22 gauge wire is perfect.
    1 point
  23. Are you using wire or thread. Wire is easier, as you only need to make two or three wraps. I put a rubber collar over the skirt I want to tie on. I then slide the skirt with the rubber collar over onto the jig. I start my wire all the way at the top of the jig head, wrap it several times, twist, cut and then slide the rubber collar off. No need to move the weedguard. If I were using thread. I would tie the skirt and then put in the weedguard later.
    1 point
  24. They stuff feathers into the tail ends of the molds. Open pour molds make this easy do do with a little modification. Some make their own molds with the cavities for it.
    1 point
  25. One of the reasons I use a small swivel when fishing in-lines is because they all spin around. The only in-line I ever used that didn't completely turn much during the retrieve was the Mepps Comet with the minnow. While it didn't spin a lot the fact is that it still did. I think you did the right thing in using a buoyant material on top of the hook to keep it riding up. That is probably the best way to keep the fly oriented the right way but it will still spin sometimes, especially in current.
    1 point
  26. Line tie might be a little too far back.
    1 point
  27. Looks good on paper, doesn't it??
    1 point
  28. I will look around and see what I can find. My current catalogs don't mention the wt version so I would have to ask the suppliers. The delta is an amazing place! I need to get back up there, it's been about 15 years since I last fished there
    1 point
  29. Thanks! I’ll try this method. I used some Chinese craft UV resin to clearcoat a few baits and results were not good. First, it took a long 20 min to cure and then I had to set them out in the sun to get reasonably hard. Stored them in a plastic box for a few months and then found they had become sticky. Eventually I coated them with D2T epoxy, which fixed the problem. But the experience was not promising.
    1 point
  30. I’ve never attempted it I think the heat deflection temperatures of most resins is pretty low. I use petg for mold on my fdm and that works decently well. It’s deflection temperature is much lower than that of the plastisol but I’m not sure resin would compare. Plastic is a bad conducted of heat. I’m assuming your just trying to save on resin and money right? You could prototype single cavity molds or print out just the lure out of any resin so you can see it and judge if it will work or not.
    1 point
  31. You could also give it a quick heat with a hair dryer to give a custom fit. But a flex filament is still the best option. As a side note I am a bit closer on using flexible fillaments
    1 point
  32. Is littleriver still around? I sent him a message but looks like he hasn't been active in a while. I have some questions about some Tennessee Shad baits I've found. Thanks!
    1 point
  33. That's a great video! Thanks for sharing.
    1 point
  34. The Ika has been mentioned a few times now and I've never used it. That will have to change!
    1 point
  35. I pour and fish the fat ika. It skips awesome and catches fish .
    1 point
  36. I took over Dinger baits, and have some of the 0.5 squarebills in stock. I also carry 1.5 and 2.5 squarebills. Don't currently have a 1.0 size but I can get that if it is something people would be interested in. https://fishheadcustomlures.com/point-5-squarebill/ thanks Eric
    1 point
  37. For years I fished the Fat Ika for the same reason. Berkley said the most hit bait was a cylinder, which is like a craw without claws.
    1 point
  38. Fully prototyped and tested, the Small Water Customs "Pond Special" wakebait is being produced to be sold. $25 shipped. Msg me on Facebook @Braden Webb to place your order. These are a custom, hand carved lure that are hand painted and clear coated. Available in extremely limited quantity.
    1 point
  39. There is an easy solution for this. After you pour the jigs, take a look at the hook point in relation to the hook eye or weedguard hole. If they are off center, take a pair of pliers and twist the hook bend to center. This doesn't damage the hook. I notice this many times when pouring spinnerbaits. Sometimes the hook lies too low in the mold and once poured they are off center. You can also do this when you finish painting and or finish skirting a jig. I always look at my jigs once they are complete skirted.
    1 point
  40. What Mark said. Pool noodle works great and is pretty cheap. I make up a lot of salmon leaders before the season and store them this way. You can also make two lines about 2 inches apart along the length of the section of noodle you want to cut and then score each place you want to put a leader except for the part between the lines. This will tend to hold your leader material a bit better but leave a small portion visible. I just use a sharp knife and roll the noodle while holding the knife stationary. Start at one line and roll to the next leaving between your lines uncut.
    1 point
  41. I used to keep mono leaders on a piece of styrofoam with slits cut in the ends.
    1 point
  42. 1 point
  43. I just looked on the first page of the hardbaits forum. I counted 14 top coat or related threads. That is almost 50% of the posts are top coat related. Do you think we are obsessing? Dave
    1 point
  44. Here you go- back- light watermelon with 015. moss grn flk middle- light pumpkin(no flk) small amount of copper highlight- you want a bronze highlight or neon effect here belly- let me stress, this is the smallest amount, or the color that covers the bait the least.....just a tiny bit of pearl.
    1 point
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