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  1. Update: I received my order yesterday. I assumed I would never get it and the money was gone. I wasn't too concerned about it, getting invaded by Russia is a valid excuse to not fulfill orders. I was very surprised when I found the box on my doorstep. I ran all 3 aluminum molds today and they shot perfect. I might place another order just to help the cause.
    4 points
  2. This is what has worked for me. I wrap the joint hardware with 1/8-1/4 inch wide rubber bands, wrap it tight enough it'll pin the joint and the body segments won't move. Try and spread the bands out to cover while wrapping Some small paint/clear touch up may be needed if the rubber band covers any part of the bait body near the hardware. After it's dried/cured, just cut the bands with an exacto and dig out them out with forceps or tweezers. I'm spraying auto clear now, but have dipped 2 pc baits, half a bait at a time and put on a turner with decent results, 4 oz baits and under with the dipping. When dipping I kept the product off the hardware/bands as much as possible, even using a small brush to fill in tight spots. Hope this helps...
    3 points
  3. Probably, though I have yet to get flexible filament to work for me (yet), it's sort of like playing pool with a rope.
    3 points
  4. There are a lot of good spinnerbaits out there right now. For me, a good spinnerbait should perform the duty it is meant to do. For example, if you have a spinnerbait mean for burning then it should do that well. That means it should be able to handle high speeds without rolling over or leaning heavily to one side. If it is a slow rolling model, then the blade should spin at very slow speeds without causing much lift. I should be able to crank that lure at least 10 times or more before having to pause slightly for the bait to get back down. An "all-purpose" type bait should be stable at moderate speeds and the blades should spin at relatively slow speeds. Good components, and doing its intended job is what makes a spinnerbait good. If it does all of those things and if used in the correct situation, a good spinnerbait will always catch fish.
    2 points
  5. I just spray one squirt into the bag before I bag the baits. Makes them easier to bag and the baits absorb it.
    2 points
  6. No sir. I mostly use the steel wool when recoating 2 part epoxy and when recoating or am going to repaint a hard bait to get coatings to stick.
    2 points
  7. I like to use fine steel wool as opposed to fine sandpaper when I need to scuff up the surface for a second coat. You can get 0000 steel wool and I think that if you just get the shine off it provides enough "bite" for the next coat. Sometimes if I use fine sandpaper, it takes off more than I want and has damaged my paint requiring me to start over. After the steel wool I use a cotton ball soaked with denatured alcohol to wipe it down before applying the next coat.
    2 points
  8. I buy the unpainted bodies from LurePartsOnline. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/King-Spin-Heads I prime them with Rustoleum Self Etching Primer, hand paint the heads with Createx airbrush paints, using an artists brush, add the eyes, topcoat with clear fingernail polish, and add the skirts and blades.
    2 points
  9. Any time I have had people get impressed by the lures I paint I tell them I am a slob compared to some of the builders out there
    2 points
  10. I take the baits apart, No matter how careful I try to be.... it was never good job finishing them. sticking joints, missed finish areas, poor clearance, which turned out to be... at best...to be a learning experience. So now I take everything apart. My .02
    1 point
  11. The ball bearing swivel is held in a small square. I was tired of the pike pulling the willow leaf off. Note never put a black dot ⚫️ on a white blade, a blade doesn’t have a hook. I have had pike and musky hold on to a blade all the way to the boat and let go at the last minute. 86 strands in the skirt, chartreuse gives it a lateral line. Speed up and slow down disrupts the line and causes a strike. The skirt length is long enough to hide the stinger hook. Slide the stinger on and place the plastic tube on after to keep the hook loose in the skirt. A three inch twister tail sticks out the bottom and provides movement when you slow down. The ball bearing swivel allows the willow to spin on the way down. Bend the blades so they propeller easily, another trick. Fish this fast or slow. The modifications work best on a slow retrieve. You can fish this like a jig, the bait will start to have movement as soon as it hits the water. The skirt strands flex on slow jerks and resemble a fish in distress. Worked on this lure and the modifications for ten years, it was always my secret but I am sharing it with you. The original started with an old man in the Kalamazoo Michigan area were it was used against Kevin VanDam when he was a young man. On some evenings this lure beat Kevin in his own backyard. When the man passed, the lure was no longer available so I was forced to purchase the parts from Jann’s Netcraft and started to build my version and make modifications. The skirt with 86 strands was changed when the white rubber changed, originally it was 96 strands of flat rubber. The outside diameter is the same now but the round rubber is stiffer. Food grade silicone will soften the skirt especially after it’s been fished with. so that’s it, everything I did for ten years to take something that was good and made it a little better. This lure will catch fish! I have been known to cut the skirt back to the short length of the original lure and remove the stinger. I have also tied the skirt with chartreuse on top and white on the bottom the two tone works well in murky water. Hammered copper blades work well in the river water. Copper resembles crayfish. so my question is, did I miss anything when it comes to spinner baits?
    1 point
  12. It's a 3-piece swim bait I wonder if spraying would be better and brush around the sections using KBS, I am worried about bubbles, generally dip but this is my first swim bait. I will use rubber bands and see how that works. Wayne
    1 point
  13. Dang that wouldn't be good then. I just don't have any confidence in a spray scent. I feel like the stuff is gone after a couple casts. I have always wondered this about Googan stuff, guess I'll continue adding my own scent. LOL.
    1 point
  14. Yesterday, I sat in front of the computer, instead of venturing out into my 100+ degree garage. I was looking for something to keep me inside, so I went online to TU. I looked at the Hard Baits Gallery for the first time in a long time. Big mistake! You guys are real artists with an air brush. By comparison, my baits look like I used a foam roller. It's a good thing my garage is attached, or I'd be tempted to burn it down, and take up knitting. Hahaha Thanks for sharing some beautiful work.
    1 point
  15. Bang anise in the spray bottle, not the can.
    1 point
  16. andy- Recently curiosity and idle hands has got the better of me, so in earnest I have started making lures again (also my tackle box is low) and its time to get the copy machine going (needs a new transformer). So I just Googled "copy lathe" and up came TU and this thread ... I also looked up YouTube to see what was the latest on "copy lathes" and up came this interesting, eccentric character (English of course) . Here he is explaining in simple terms how a copy lathe works (2 x dimensional) while he is building one. Beside myself, I thought you and others may be interested : Enjoy Pete
    1 point
  17. Hillbilly, I think many of us are at least a little strange... I had one of those when I was a kid (before my folks trusted me with a knife) and it was my favorite tool! I loved how I could shape wood with it. Seeing it on here, maybe I'll pick some up for my kids (and me) to work with. Great start! Keep us updated as you progress with this lure.
    1 point
  18. Good call @mark poulson! Here it is sealed, with hooks and hangers dry-fit, and ready for the test tank.
    1 point
  19. Well I did some experimenting with the advice and got the problem solved Reducing hold time to 10 seconds and lower the temp on the mold itself did the trick thanks
    1 point
  20. Nice scent, can't really call it other than it's a HEAVY anise base.
    1 point
  21. Drat! Now where will I get all my illicit male enhancement product? ;O)
    1 point
  22. Erick, here's a picture of one that's been eaten a lot.
    1 point
  23. I'm sorry if this is the wrong forum for this, but it is wire bait related. I fish spinnerbaits on the CA Delta a lot. Even though I wrap wire around the R bend, they do eventually get weak and bend out. I've figured out how to salvage them, because they are still good enough to fish. I cut the weakened wire at the R bend, grab the remaining wire about 1/4" in front of the head with a pair of round jawed pliers. I hold the wire near the cut off R bend with needle nosed vise grips, and wrap the wire back down over the round bend pliers, forming a loop that's in line with the hook, and just beginning down past the wire. I put the wire loop that's formed into the sooth jaws of a bench vise, and then use the wise grips to wrap the wire tag end around the wire between the loop and the head, forming a closed eye loop. I try and wrap it twice around, just to play safe. Once I've removed the vise grips and made sure the eye is straight, I use a dremel with a cut off wheel to trim off the excess close to the main wire. And now I have a swim jig! Since I wire wrap my skirts, and the head's paint job is seldom damaged, it's ready to fish, except for the weed guard, which I make from weed whacker plastic wire that I super into into a hole I drill in the top of the bait's head. I can also put a chatter bait blade onto the wire once the loop is started, but not yet wrapped around the main wire shaft. Just stuff to do with old, tired spinnerbaits.
    1 point
  24. Catches my eye. Unique with 2 line ties so I guess you can vertically jig this one. Also note worthy is you unique foil job. Not sure how you achieved that mottled foil. Beautiful.
    1 point
  25. Very interesting bait. Looks like it will wake great and really move some water when it does. Nice work.
    1 point
  26. The good part, when the spinner was reeled at the normal speed it ran very well. To my eyes I believe it spun faster than any other lure I tested. But it has many negative's. At a slower speed trying to just roll the blade over it would not start. Blade stayed close to the wire. Tried to jerk the spinner it would not start. Only fast speed made it work. Well nothing ventured nothing gained. Learned a great deal from you posts. Thanks for everything.
    1 point
  27. ill try to put a pic up later if this does not make sense. if you are thinking a jointed bait like a wiley or what not, you can make open loops that the tag end goes back into the bait and tight wrap the other end to pull the open end tight into the bait. Then do the opposite on the other body part. There are a couple of good videos on youtube that show this. try searching saltwater lure building. This make a solid tight thru wire joint.
    1 point
  28. My friend Barry Sterud (Barry's Baits) makes and paints some beautiful baits. I always look to his work for inspiration.
    1 point
  29. So true Mark, I have good intentions when I paint, but these guys are just as said ARTISTI Wayne
    1 point
  30. Now THIS.......is pretty much dead on. Every word of it. Grubs were one of very few baits that I amped up the plastic. I used MF super soft back in the day. Don't know what "soft sinking" is? Here on the west coast, guys wanted stuff SOFT.........but my grubs would tear up too easily......and they let me know it. Once I went to medium, problem solved. If Epic molds looks like Kalin's, buy it. THEN mess around with the plastic until you get the action you need. Oh and nailed it with Lure Craft. Tons of awesome single tail grubs. And Del's stuff was unmatched. Peace :-)
    1 point
  31. No need to buy gallons I’d you’re just starting out. Quarts are available too. some suppliers also sell sample packs of three different types. Been a while since I bought one of those so the company name escapes me. Maybe another member can help? FWIW… after a number of years making baits and trying at least a gallon of most of the brands, I keep going back to MF plastics.
    1 point
  32. Each of those companies have product line-ups in regards to density starting from super soft plastic (think ned worms and stuff you want to have a lot of wiggle) to hard soft plastic (think saltwater soft plastics that can handle the bite). using super soft will give you a lot of action but they will be ripped up easily while a harder density plastic will have less action but will be more dense and not get ripped up as easy. all plastic manufacturers will have a soft, medium and hard grade plastic. The plastic formulation is what varies from company to company. some companies like MF provide really clear plastic, however you pay for that in cost per gallon while other companies like dead-on offer the gallon at a cheaper rate but some might say the quality isnt there, however some like that it is phthalate free. I personally use MF and Bait plastics Saltwater blend as I need a more durable plastic. Bait plastics has been an all around great plastic to work with but some might say that the odor/fumes while cooking it is too strong and the plastic when creating a clear bait tends to fog up some while it cures. I would recommend you try bait plastics medium or saltwater blend to start with and as you have time and money, get a gallon or two here of the other guys stuff and see what qualities you like best of each plastic. You can see my experience with dead on in one of my previous posts about my tubes ripping up constantly.
    1 point
  33. I have found in fishing inline spinners that I have a lot more bites at the bottom end of the blade speed, almost to the point that the blade will stutter/shimmy or just stop... I would say 90% of all my fish come from the unstable slower speeds. You need to figure out what works for the fish and area you are fishing.
    1 point
  34. William yes I understand what you want to achieve . Metal beads provide a reduced contact surface area between components and that is why they are usually round for our purpose. On a wire shaft lure the clevis holding/ supporting the blade moves back and forth along the wire shaft until the lure is retrieved. At that point drag pulls everything along the shaft toward the back of the lure putting load or pressure against all the components. The more weight that each component is subjected to is different as you move from back to front along the shaft . Certain key bearing or bead surfaces do more work for you than others . If the front bead ahead of the clevis has no real weight forced against it, dose it actually do anything to improve rotation ,How can it reduce friction if there is none to contend with ? The bead in your example is between the clevis legs and sees no real side load or weight pushing on it. I certainly recommend a bead down stream on shaft contacting the clevis and up stream of it if your mounting anything else that would directly rub against the clevis surface. A bead between clevis legs can be decorative and dose not need to be heavy ,metal and as it has no side load imparted to it , it is totally up to you if you want to use it or not .IMHO.
    1 point
  35. I'm still stuck trying to figure out 3D glasses!
    1 point
  36. Hey now I have a use for a 3d print that fails and leaves me with a build plate full of noodles interesting idea regardless
    1 point
  37. Here is a simple method for making some stencils I came up with I lay down a sheet of aluminum foil , sprayed with butter flavored Pam ( that was all I had , I suspect regular Pam would also work ) Drizzle hot glue randomly , about 10 " above work surface . If you want thick lines you can let the glue spread before cooling down or the thinner lines cool down quickly - I just blew air on them to set at what stage I wanted . Clean with soap and water . They are soft and pliable and can be clipped around lure like tulle or laid down as usual . I am going to try doing this method on blank square bill ( sprayed with butter Pam first ) to see if it will hold the shape once cooled down , more ideas will have to wait till next weekend
    1 point
  38. So far so good, poured two pieces after heating with the blow dryer and they hardened. Hope it wasn’t a fluke. Thanks!
    1 point
  39. For shaping I only rough things out with a knife then switch to a rasp with a coarse/fine combination. You can remove a lot of material with the coarse side. The fine side it eliminates a lot of sanding and removes the ridges The one I use is double sided. One side curved the other is flat here is a pic of one but the fine side is getting worn down because I have had it a long time By far my favorite shaping tool
    1 point
  40. However you are making your spinner baits, apparently they are working, based on the photos you attached. I wouldn't change anything. Fish them the way you make them. If it works don't fix it.
    1 point
  41. It was @fishordie79 that helped me with my own lure eyes. It just adds to the customization! and fun.
    1 point
  42. Go to the tutorial section of this form. There is some great information about how to make lure eyes. I forget who walked me through it. But I was able to use a version of photo editing software and make my own holographic water slide decals with eyes, then drop epoxy on the eyes to get that 3d shape. I'll see if I can find the links.
    1 point
  43. I wouldn't change a thing. If it catches fish you can't ask for anything else.
    1 point
  44. I tried making eyes with 1/2 hour and slow curing epoxy and still get bubbles. I just got some UV resin and did a test and it still seems cloudy. BUT, I may being doing something wrong. I even tried using a torch to pop the bubbles……and needless the say, that did not end well. I order clear plastic doll eyes from aliexpress. I cut off the stem and sand them level then paint the back the color I want. I am sure you could also use some type of reflective decals the same way I use paint.
    1 point
  45. Thanks Big Epp ! I will mess around to see how a scale pattern might be achieved , I think the clear glue can be used to make some cool walleye eyes so I'll make them and post pictures
    1 point
  46. Great idea man! The randomness of this pattern and simplicity of the process is really clever.
    1 point
  47. Piece of PVC with cap w/ bolt through...attaches to drill. I didnt quite get the hole in the cap exactly dead center...but this actually causes a little wabble. The tube is long enough to hold three bottles.
    1 point
  48. Sometimes I use my sawzall just tape a bottle to a blade. Wayne
    1 point
  49. I’m the original poster on this thread. Lost my login and haven’t been able to retrieve my password for some reason. It took me 14 damned years, but I FINALLY got around to recarpeting my boat. I’d love to post a photo but my phone isn’t giving me the option. mods, if you can help me retrieve or reset my password, I’d appreciate it! Otherwise, just wanted to check in and give an update!
    1 point
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