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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/27/2022 in all areas

  1. Here are some of my old rattle cans paintjobs. I think I might need to go back, I suck at airbrushing
    4 points
  2. I don't have a pool, but i'll use my brother inlaws. I put the mask on and watch the bait as he drags it through the water. He can't complain either unless he never wants to be invited to go fishing with me again.
    3 points
  3. I've only done this once, but I have some gold powder paint that I mixed into epoxy. I had some in a cup for coating some jig heads, and when I poured the cup back into the main container there was some left in it. I added epoxy and coated a couple lures. It looks good so far!
    3 points
  4. I get that! I bet we could do some really good work, it's just a matter of time and priorities. The small crank is the lure I tried the wash technique on, and the bass is a 7" glide bait I made a couple years ago and is all hand painted.
    3 points
  5. As a kid, I remember the arguments my mom and dad would have when he'd test a bait in the pool. "They're disgusting and they have nasty oil on them. No one wants to swim in it after that!!!" Good times.......
    2 points
  6. for most of my baits I use MF soft. Tried other brands, and I keep going back to MF. I use medium as well, and I think when I get back into production after the holidays, I will use medium, which I use for some things. I can always add softener. Making single and double tail grubs, I found using soft sinking, the tails don't have any action. I'm thinking the same will happen with swim baits. Can't test them now. Too cold, and I doubt if lifeguards at the local YMCA would be happy if I tested my baits at the pool. So guess I'll be testing tail action in the bathtub. And for any pervs that read this I meant swim bait tail action.
    2 points
  7. Yes, this is pretty common. At least for me it is. I'm sure others do it as well. After dipping I space them out on a piece of stiff wire. I have hooks hanging in my oven and the wire just rests on that while they cure.
    2 points
  8. Just a word of caution when adding pigment. Do so just a little at a time. Its been my experience that you only need a little. Its also been my experience that the epoxy doesn't set up right if there is too much pigment.
    2 points
  9. I would do basecoats with a rattle can and most other detail work with acrylic paint and brushes, and sharpies. But, thank goodness for airbrushes! I'm not going to give up on mine soon! Lol It would be kind of cool to see what everybody could do without using their airbrushes.
    2 points
  10. I hate glitter over the eyes...
    2 points
  11. Anyone by chance have an old Strike King Short arm spinnerbait that came with a weed guard they could post a picture of? Can't find any on the web. Thanks
    1 point
  12. Idiots with too much time on their hands. No joke when I say I personally ban at least 3 to 5 "members" per week. It's ridiculous! Go spam Pinterest or something!
    1 point
  13. Cool idea, but I'm too lazy to do it.
    1 point
  14. When I first started using Elaztech, I was making my own screw lock shaky heads. I ran into that same problem. My fix was to heat a small drill bit and melt a hole in the end of the bait. Then the screw was easy to get in. I even did it in the boat with a tiny pair of channel locks, the drill bit and a lighter.
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. Thank you all for your help! I have ordered Frankford Arsenal spray and it will arrive next week. I also ordered a Lee production IV Pot. Cadman, I will try the suggestions that you gave me when I receive everything in the mail next week. Basskat, when you talk about venting are you placing a piece of tape inside the mold?
    1 point
  17. I haven't found a Z Man bait that isn't made out of the stuff. Sure wish their swimbaits weren't. I use a screw-in weighted hook and it's nearly impossible to screw into that crap.
    1 point
  18. Welcome to TU , Seems I can see ridges or bumps , I think they are 3D printed parts
    1 point
  19. Very entertaining post. I have used swimming pools a few times. You would be surprised how accommodating the pool boss can be if you ask. It is such an outlandish request, it will give him something to talk about next time at the bar with his mates. Dave
    1 point
  20. Heat the rod that forms the hole. It will cool the lead before it fills the smaller sizes.
    1 point
  21. Randy, Welcome to TU. I always tell everyone that pours, first buy Frankford Arsenal "Drop Out". It is a mold release spray. To use clean all your lead cavities with Mineral Spirits or Naphtha. Let dry or evaporate, then spray the cavities lightly with the mold release. A little goes a long way. Just make sure you get all the spots. Your cavities will turn a light gray color. Once its sprayed it will dry in about 5 to 10 minutes. Then heat your mold and try it out. That should solve 90% of your problems. You can also gap your mold a little to release any trapped air. Going to a bottom pour pot is definitely a plus, because you can stick the pot nozzle into the cavity hole and it will be similar to injecting lead into your mold. Some things to try.
    1 point
  22. If you're using MF super soft, my guess is it's way too soft for a swimbait. Seems to me most of the swimbaits I use are made with regular or even the tougher plastics.
    1 point
  23. I just started making inline spinners and I thought that this would be a cheaper option. thanks!
    1 point
  24. Thank you guys. I will give these a try.
    1 point
  25. Just showing all of the hook sizes in comparison....
    1 point
  26. I have used the Proberos hooks from China off aliexpress. I have only used the model 35647 1x hooks. Those hooks are good for the price. You may get a hook or two with a damaged point in a 50 pack. With their price being cheap for big hooks, I can tolerate a couple of bad ones. Proberos also makes 2x , 3x and 4x hooks. The 3x and 4x hooks from there are tinned and not black nickel, if that matters. There is a price jump from the 3x to the 4x. I don't know about the quality of those heavier gauge hooks. You could order a 10 pack to see if you like them. The 10 packs are in stock. You can also search for the model numbers to see if other vendors have them in stock in the bigger packs. You can also ask them if they would do a bulk wholesale order. I know they sell some of their normal gauge treble hooks in bulk 500 packs. Model 8003-2x. 2x- black nickel. 50 packs are out of stock now https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801658561810.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.683938daF0pN7x&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US Model 8008-3x. 3x tinned. 50 packs are out of stock now https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801658142325.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.683938daF0pN7x&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US Model ST66-4x. 4x tinned. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804805648298.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis!USD!US %241.25!US %240.69!!!!!%402100bb5116698240472802540eb687!12000031266462473!sh&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
    1 point
  27. vmc 7239bn from gerrystackle.com size 6
    1 point
  28. Using the fine Black Diamond glitter can really make your paint jobs pop. I like to do it on most of my topcoats. It's fine enough not to make any problems with the clearcoat, as long as you use just a little. One thing is to know what color glitters go with certain paint jobs. Like the more silvery glitters are good for a shad or maybe a trout. If you get the wrong color it really looks depressing, Lol. https://amzn.to/3imvMsZ This stuff works pretty good, just remember that it is good as an accent and not a colorant. I'll have to get some pictures of ones I've done.
    1 point
  29. yeah a 9oz single or 6oz dual is plenty to fill 8 cavities, i can do 10 3.8" BA shads, 4 3.75" hammers, 8 3.5" rip shads and probably have some plastic left from a 6oz dual.
    1 point
  30. Here's one that is close. Search swim worm and swimming worm and you'll find others that are out there. Seems like a nice combo.
    1 point
  31. That's good to know. I didn't know there was a difference. Thanks for the info.
    1 point
  32. I use the poison tail mold and really like it. I made several to use as swim jigs with no modifications and they worked great.
    1 point
  33. Try "Saltwater plastic?"
    1 point
  34. The poisontail jig has always used a 30* hook... Yes they take round bends. I use the EC 3886 BP.
    1 point
  35. This is how I do it without an airbrush. A combination of brush and various markers. It probably takes a bit more time than the airbrush but I like the look
    1 point
  36. When it's back in stock, or try Zeiners. https://barlowstackle.com/do-it-poison-tail-weedless-jig-mold-starter-kit/ https://www.zeiners.com/doit/do-it_poison_tail_jig_mold.html
    1 point
  37. Nice "Flaswimbaiter " & Marc, I might try those hooks, it looks "weedless" too, especially on a surface lure. Pete.
    1 point
  38. The magnets are working……so far. The hook moves freely, the magnets are in the bottom of the slot. when you retrieve it, the nose rises and the hooks drop. Just a proto plan on making something larger and more detailed.
    1 point
  39. I guess I don't see you saving a lot of space. If you are taking paints and such to do washes or hand paint etc.. an airbrush takes up very little space. The compressor is the only real space eater and several pint size offerings that will do just fine. I have on I picked up for kicks on clearance years ago. I would rather save time painting a lure to enjoy other stuff later than messing around personally. I think I could easily get everything I needed into a small plastic tool box (compressor, brush, paints, coping saw, knives, dremel, sand paper, glue, paint, wire for line ties, etc.. .
    1 point
  40. I certainly wouldn't use my flush cut nippers for tiles. Not sure what you're referring to there. I have a pair of flush cutters that I bought from Barlow's they call them gate cutters. https://barlowstackle.com/gate-cutter-575-p2681/ But I also bought a pair of these from my local hardware store. They're similar to a pair of regular wire cutters except they cut flush to whatever you're cutting such as a jig head. Any halfway decent hardware store should have a pair of one brand or another. https://channellock.com/product/758/
    1 point
  41. Not to take anything away from TJ, but I bought the fluid discs from him and they did not work with my powder. With that said, all powder will not work in all media. I have seven dedicated powder cup colors. Out of the seven 3 of them have Tyvek media, 3 of them have vacuum cleaner bags and 1 has a brown bag. So this tells me and I have been doing this for along time, that all powder pigments are not created equal. I found this to be true with not only my powder but CSI (Pro-tec) powder as well. On another note, vibratory movement as mentioned above is the key to a lot of problems. Since you are using an air source, let your air pump touch your fluid bed, the vibrations may help. Also you can build a small stand on your fluid bed that can sit on top of your air pump which will vibrate as well. A little ingenuity will solve many of your problems. Good luck.
    1 point
  42. Sometimes I use my sawzall just tape a bottle to a blade. Wayne
    1 point
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