woodsac

User Tubeman makes some high quality monster tubes. http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=3&pos=123

The paint should withstand the temp, but you have to let it cure for about 4 days before you can pour on top of it Go to Wal-Mart and buy some Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. Mix up little batches at a time and spread it on thin and even. Wait for a day or so to let it cure.

OK....everyone has had enough! Myself and the other Mods have received several requests to end this post. Well now is the time. It's no longer a friendly discussion. It's individuals taking cheap shots at each other over the internet. If you have any questions or concerns about the quality or availability of Calhoun Plastic, please direct them to the provider: www.del-mart.com

I'm flattered I wouldn't mind comparing them side by side...just to see how my quality compares to the *big guys*

It's only a matter of time... Here in CA, we have several lakes that only allow 4 strokes. At Diamond Valley, you even have to have your motor inspected, and present a fuel receipt from a station that sells gas without MTBE's in it, before you can even get on the water!!! Then you have to pay a parking fee, and a launch fee

Glad to see you were able to get those done. I know the plastic will be a little expensive at first for you because of shipping, but at least you won't have to pay to have the original baits shipped to you from Japan And you'll be able to make your own colors!

When it comes to pearl white powder, I prefer MF. Just seems more vibrant? To really make it *pop* try adding 1-2 drops of white per ounce of plastic.

Set it on top of your washing machine and throw it on spin cycle for about 15 minutes.

That's not a bad thing. Around here we call that 'Creative Texture' Try mixing slower. Also, which did you add first, the water or the plaster? This is a great thread to get you pointed in the right direction: http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4782

Well it seems to me, that the people who are most concerned with the ratings system are concerned for themselves. Because they are afraid that they will be rated as other than expert. So let's forget all the *ratings* talk!!!! It was just a suggestion. Let's discuss the other benefits. Let's assume that there will be no ratings system!! Does that change the minds of anyone that was sceptical? Global discounts on manufacturing material, member discounts to certain angling related events, your anem/website listed as being a knowledgeable and dedicated tackle making enthusiast. Those are great benefits to anyone in this game! Again, forget about the rating issue and try and focus on some things that could benefit a HUGE group of tackle makers. Think about places like AAA, Sams Club, Costco, NRA. None of these organizations are any different. They all specialize in a field that appeals to the general public. As paying members, they are entitles to certain benefits and luxuries. And we, the general public, turn to these organizations when we are looking for information that relates to their specialty. Someone jumps on line and looks up "tackle". The 1st return from every engine is NTMA (National Tackle Makers Association) or something along those lines And once they visit that site, they then have the option of being directed to your services! Now that's smart business.

Who sets the ratings? I have seen lots of work that I consider sub-par, but the designer might consider himself an *expert*. And in areas with little or no competition, he might be an expert

Another trick is to soak you spool in some warm to very slightly hot water. This will *relax* the line. Leave it in there for about 20 minutes. It will lay on your spool alot smoother

It does make a difference. Make sure that you are feeding the line onto your reel spool the same direction it is coming off of the line spool.

I don't use plaster But I've been told to use WD40! This shouldn't affect the texture at all.

Make sure you seal it, regardless of the mold medium you choose. I don't recommend resin for molding hard masters. Resin molds very tight. It shrinks around it's subject and doesn't have any flex to remove your master. If you did get your master out without breaking the mold, you would almost definately have to destroy the master