woodsac

User Tubeman makes some high quality monster tubes. http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=3&pos=123

The paint should withstand the temp, but you have to let it cure for about 4 days before you can pour on top of it Go to Wal-Mart and buy some Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. Mix up little batches at a time and spread it on thin and even. Wait for a day or so to let it cure.

OK....everyone has had enough! Myself and the other Mods have received several requests to end this post. Well now is the time. It's no longer a friendly discussion. It's individuals taking cheap shots at each other over the internet. If you have any questions or concerns about the quality or availability of Calhoun Plastic, please direct them to the provider: www.del-mart.com

I'm flattered I wouldn't mind comparing them side by side...just to see how my quality compares to the *big guys*

It's only a matter of time... Here in CA, we have several lakes that only allow 4 strokes. At Diamond Valley, you even have to have your motor inspected, and present a fuel receipt from a station that sells gas without MTBE's in it, before you can even get on the water!!! Then you have to pay a parking fee, and a launch fee

Glad to see you were able to get those done. I know the plastic will be a little expensive at first for you because of shipping, but at least you won't have to pay to have the original baits shipped to you from Japan And you'll be able to make your own colors!

When it comes to pearl white powder, I prefer MF. Just seems more vibrant? To really make it *pop* try adding 1-2 drops of white per ounce of plastic.

Set it on top of your washing machine and throw it on spin cycle for about 15 minutes.

That's not a bad thing. Around here we call that 'Creative Texture' Try mixing slower. Also, which did you add first, the water or the plaster? This is a great thread to get you pointed in the right direction: http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4782

Well it seems to me, that the people who are most concerned with the ratings system are concerned for themselves. Because they are afraid that they will be rated as other than expert. So let's forget all the *ratings* talk!!!! It was just a suggestion. Let's discuss the other benefits. Let's assume that there will be no ratings system!! Does that change the minds of anyone that was sceptical? Global discounts on manufacturing material, member discounts to certain angling related events, your anem/website listed as being a knowledgeable and dedicated tackle making enthusiast. Those are great benefits to anyone in this game! Again, forget about the rating issue and try and focus on some things that could benefit a HUGE group of tackle makers. Think about places like AAA, Sams Club, Costco, NRA. None of these organizations are any different. They all specialize in a field that appeals to the general public. As paying members, they are entitles to certain benefits and luxuries. And we, the general public, turn to these organizations when we are looking for information that relates to their specialty. Someone jumps on line and looks up "tackle". The 1st return from every engine is NTMA (National Tackle Makers Association) or something along those lines And once they visit that site, they then have the option of being directed to your services! Now that's smart business.

Who sets the ratings? I have seen lots of work that I consider sub-par, but the designer might consider himself an *expert*. And in areas with little or no competition, he might be an expert

Another trick is to soak you spool in some warm to very slightly hot water. This will *relax* the line. Leave it in there for about 20 minutes. It will lay on your spool alot smoother

It does make a difference. Make sure that you are feeding the line onto your reel spool the same direction it is coming off of the line spool.

I don't use plaster But I've been told to use WD40! This shouldn't affect the texture at all.

Make sure you seal it, regardless of the mold medium you choose. I don't recommend resin for molding hard masters. Resin molds very tight. It shrinks around it's subject and doesn't have any flex to remove your master. If you did get your master out without breaking the mold, you would almost definately have to destroy the master

Check the "sticky" topics for suppliers with links to their websites.

Eric, welcome to TU I have looked at that bait several times. Because of the geometry of the bait, I really think you will need to make a 2 piece mold in order to have the swimming action stay the same. By making a 1 piece mold of that bait, you will be loosing the curvature of the back and the tail will be perfectly in-line with the back. There is an ebay user that sells those baits on occassion. user id: ginrinpeche If I were you, I would practice making some 2 piece molds out of plaster on a bait that you have plenty of. Once you are comfortable with the plaster, then attempt to make one of the Javallon.

There really are only a few subtle differences between the two. Remember: Flipping - Close presentation for very precise placement of the bait with little to zero noise when the bait enters the water. There is no need to open the bail when doing this. You are using the length of the line that you already have out. Pitching - Further presentation used to keep the bait close to the water to give it a soft entry into the water, making very little noise. Great for getting under branches and limbs that you could not cast normally to. I had a hard time remembering which one was which. I thought of it this way. Think about flipping like flipping a quarter into a glass. You have to be close. Then think of pitching, like a baseball. You are further away, but you want to keep the trajectory of the ball low enough to squeeze by the batter. There are a couple of videos on the market that can give you a great visual! One is with KVD and I think the other is with Skeet Reese. Both are on the subject of pitching and flipping.

You can find links to all the suppliers in the sticky at the top of the forum. I would recommend Del's tube plastic for salt water baits. You could always add softener later for softer worms. That's easier than adding hardener.

About 98% of the time, the glitter you buy from the craft store will not withstand the heat of hot plastic. At the top of this forum there is a sticky with suppliers that sale glitter designed for making soft plastic baits. Welcome to TU

I'm interested in 1 each...Hula Girl. But I'd like the cheap model, the one without the coconuts

BB - take a shot and post a pic Even if it's not great, we might be able to give you some ideas that you haven't tried. The neat thing is that 10 different guys might come up with 10 different combos to make the same color! Maybe one of the combos suggested, will have that 'magic' color you haven't added yet?

Kim, thanks for taking the time to comment If you do a little research here, you'll find that LC is either loved or hated Just the fact that you are addressing problems shows a huge improvement in customer service and your desire to want to support them! As a LC customer, thank you

Hopefully, in the near future we will have member stores But for now, the best thing to do is just go into the photo gallery, find some baits that interest you and send that user an email or PM. Also, a lot of guys have their web site address in their signature if you read through some posts.

Welcome to TU For a worm that size you might have to go to LureCraft. But they don't make aluminum molds, only rtv But once you have the mold you want, you could make your own mold. Or...if you have a worm that you want to copy, you could make your own mold from the start.