dlaery

thanks for that, I had a twistech a few years ago and didn't like it, I don't remember why. I have managed to make the Hagens work. I rig the wires before we cast them in the head. worked out good. Thanks!

after i re-read you post I realized what you was doing. I have printed some glide baits. Idon't think they had enough weight in the bottom, they wanted to roll over. good luck!

i'm curious, is the mold for soft plastic or hard plastic?

I am making some umbrella rigs I have a Hagens wire former, not fond of it for umbrella rigs because it spins the wire shaft to wrap the loop, the boggs looks like the shaft and loop stays stationary while the short wire is just wrapped around the shaft. can someone confirm or not if that is the way the boggs works? Thanks,

i would start here https://www.romanoff.com/floor-vulcanizer-tubular-heating-element-220v-white-metal.html i don't know anything about Romanoff, I have a tekcast and it looks a lot different than the one on the link above. i would make sure its bad, you can test them with a ohm meter.

i was working with this mold picture, I think i have it scaled close and the yellow hook is a mustad 32886-4/0 it looks like it might work with some modifications. I don't have the mold nor have I tried this.

USPlastic.com be sure to check what size you have. this is where I get mine

9" - 28 to 35 parts 12" will get about 30% more, not worth it me.

I guess I was wrong, i got front and back mixed up

Needs a couple beads behind the clevis?

sounds like you have the right tools, all you need now is practice. for the most part we use an exacto knife with a pointed end

i use 6% antyimony in spincasting. it will be hard (no pun intened) to break off the spru in hand pouring. when I have a difficult pour in hand pouring I will use hard lead because I think it casts easier. last time i checked, roto only sells lead with around 4% linotype runs around 10-12% andtimony. I have hand poured 6% and that is plenty hard, I wouldn't call it brittle but breaking off the spru can leave a hole where it breaks off.

a magnet will pick up steel blade, it will not pick up brass blades unless they are nickle plated and the nickle will be slightly attracted to a magnet.

brass blades do not rust, some blades are made from steel, they will rust. so if you buy nickel plated bladew you need to find out if they are brass or steel

i have used them for years. I love them because of the pistol grip. when they wear out i get a new one.

Thanks!

no, someone wants to buy some and i am trying to figure out what they are. i'm not use to dealing with those kind of hooks

thanks for the info. that's helpful.

Thanks Ted, I have an older Eagle Claw book, i'll see If I can find them in there.

anyone know what kind (Brand) of hooks these are? I am trying to figure out what they are, so I can buy some.

that is what I normally do and it work good enough for me.

I tried one and without the hook the pic is not correct to use to draw the hook. I traced the drawing, guessed the diameter, and as you can see the pic or the dimension in the pic are wrong. A lot of times this works for me but I always have the actual hook.

I agree completly with Fatman. I have had that problem before and it is usually because of too much talc in the molds. it also happend with some very old powder paint. the vinagar did fix the problem for me. I mixed he vinagar with half water, heated the water to 180F and then rinsed in clear water.

X2,

this is what I did, I don't have any pics yet. I took a pressure cooker, bought some door seal at auto parts store that had sticky tape on it and I stuck it to the top edge of the pressure cooker. then I had a piece of 1/4" poly carbonate cut round to fit the top of the pressure cooker. then I bought at harbor freight an air conditioner vacuum pump, https://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html took out the venturi air pump drilled a hole in the center of the poly, put pipe threads in to attach the air vacuum pump and waaalaaa. I used it to degass RTV silicone to make molds. when I put the silicone in the vacuum chamber it doubled in volume while pulling out the air bubbles and then when it dropped I took it out an poured it and didn't think it helped much if any. I was told it didn't pull enough vacuum that I needed a regular vacuum pump. I put a gauge on it and I don't remember how much it vacuum but I remember it was not as much as they recommend to vacuum out an a/c line, but I thought it was enough for the silicone but I don't know. If I remember I will take some pics when I go back to my old shop where my pump it at.