dlaery

I have something I have made, in fact I have made several of them and sold them. It measures the length of a fish. It is unique. What would I do to protect my idea? Thanks!

I am trying to pour plastics for the first time. I have done some searching and would like to ask a couple questions. I am using a cookstove to heat plasitc. What should I use to heat the plastic in? I have a pyrex cup but read somewhere where it said not to use on stove. What about a hot plate? Can you put the pyrex on that? If I continue to pour these, I guess I would use a Lee pot. Is this good? I have poured a lot of lead but wondering if there is something I'm not aware of pouring plastic. I not sure what to ask about safety. I know to have good ventilation. I have a paint mask I use for painting and also use an exhaust fan. Thanks.

My spray gun is gravity fed Cambell Hausfeld, Modle DH7600. It is called a touch up gun. It is smaller than a regular gravity fed, but bigger than an air brush. I bought it at Wal-Mart for about $50. At the Cambell Housfeld website it sells for $69.95 http://www.chpower.com/ I don't thin mine because it is thin enough to spray. I clean with laquer thinner. It cleans up about the same as paint. Barramundi what kind of epoxy do you use? It sounds like yours is thicker than mine.

The brand is Coronado. I get it a Dugan paints. Around $50 for a 2 gal kit, 1 to 1 ratio. Takes about 10 to 15 hrs to set up at room temp. I powder paint jigs (and bake), then some I spray with vinyl and put the epoxy over the top. I think the epoxy is just as durable as the powder. I think it is great for jigs and spinnerbaits. Component sells a 2 part polyamide epoxy that is the same as I use.

I spray a 2 part polyamide epoxy that I get at a local paint store. No thinning. I spray with a small paint gun, not an air brush. I am spaying painted leadheads. It puts a gloss on and is very durable. I don't have any trouble with running. It is just one coat, but it looks and covers good for what I am doing

I don't store any plastics but I package my jigs in bags of 100 and have mine in a garage and dust settles on packages and makes them look bad, so I use the plastic shoe boxes. They have a lid and keeps dust off. I buy these at a Dollar Tree store for $1 each and they stack good. The ones at Wal-Mart stack, but not a good.

I use a #0 Indianna blade on 1/16 oz pony head with a #4 hook. I usually buy my blades from Worth, but Hagens has them a little cheaper, but .... blades from Hagens are heavier: Hagens .68lbs per 1000 pcs Worth .40lbs per 1000 pcs Would the heavier blaces spin slower? Does this make any difference? OR What about willow blades instead of Indianna blades? Opinions?

I have a friend who use to use a Lyman and he said it never leaked. ?

Something to strive for to reduce filled eyelets is less heat and less dip time. Having the power loose helps also. I have a fluid bed and a single dip powder cup. I can't get the single dip to work. Its too dusty and dosen't flow and low air pressure. I use the fluid bed and the smallest hook I use is a Mustad 32786BLN 1/0. If I hold my mouth right, I can paint these without filling the eyes and the key is temp, dip time and how much air I have in my powder.

We started out with Lee Pots then switched to RCBS. They are the Cadillac, but they still leak eventually.

Here is one that I found interesting. http://www.globalspec.com/trebuchet/ On accuracy I got 750 My total score was 1877 the first time

I use a saws all to cut large pieces of lead. I use the wood/metal blade with bigger teeth. Smaller teeth clogs up. I have use a chain saw. I works good but you have to wear full face shield and long sleeve shirt because it thows little pieces of hot lead on your face and arms.

"Georgia Blue Fly"

You might try Shortys Hook Sales 800 723 8508 I would guess you would have to buy whatever comes in a box, like 500 or 1000. Sometimes the big hooks are packed 500.

Hey Richoc, me too, finding information on buying one was like pulling teeth. We couldn't keep up hand pouring, so it was either quit or get bigger. Tekcast offered me training and everything I needed and then some. They were very knowledgeable. I was able to get started very quickly which was what I needed at that time. I also like the front loading. My friend I worked with in the machine shop, went with me to New York. Attened 1 day training and we drove home with the machine and everything that went with it. The real training came after we got home and got setup. After a while, I got tired of learning the hard way. But like my x-boss use to say "Cheer up, things could be worse, sure enough, I cheered up and things got worse"

I purchased mine from Tekcast because of the design of the front loading door. I use to work for my neighbor, (who I've grown up with) in a machine shop and I'm sure we could build a spincating machine, but I'm not sure that it would be cheaper. Mainly because of the time it would take to design and build one. It would certainly be easier now since I have on to look at. I could use another spincasting machine and would problably buy one instead of trying to make one. I try to lay out my molds when I make them so I can interchange hooks. Sometimes it works pretty good on small jig hooks 6 thru 1. On the bigger salt water jigs it works, but I have more trouble with flash. Buying mold materal cost $25 and up, per 1" thick mold. Different grades of mold material for different results. 9" and 12" diameter is all I have. Molds don't last forever. Heat is their enemy. There is a lot of work goes into making models and the mold. On several of the molds I have made, $400 is not too much. Some wouldn't cost that much.

About $15,000 would get you started. Make your own molds and then start spincasting.

Here are some of my numbers. I use a Do-It 16 oz Bank Sinker mold. My scale is electronic counting scale that has a resolution of 0.0001 That would be .04536 grams. My test was very soft pipe lead. 1.0110lbs Pure Bismuth .9238 75%Bismuth 25% Tin .8429 58%Bismuth 42% Tin .8010 94%Lead, 4%Antimony, 1%Tin .9607 Then I bought some printing letters. I melted it down into ingots. It seems very hard. .8918

Here is a pic of the bottom half of a gray silicone mold with a 2-1/2 oz shad head. I make my own molds with a vulcanizer. I'm looking for a way to make a mold of a single jig so I can make 20 to 30 jigs to use to make a production mold. I don't like to use the vulcanized molds for my models, because they shrink and then when I make another mold for production, they shrink again. I called miniaturemolds in Art Bush's message about the Quick-Sil. The guy I talked to said it wouldn't shrink. : It had a clamping frame to press the silicone around the part. That sounded interesting. I'm still trying to get the Durhans water putty to work.

I've had the same problem, I was pouring 1-1/2 oz shad heads with soft lead, with a RCBS melting pot, and it would have a crater in the side of the shad head. I lowered my melting pot temp and I think it helps, but I'm not sure. I don't think I tried a ladel. I pour lots of 10 through 16 oz Bank Sinkers with a ladel, with soft lead and don't have any trouble with those except I do have a little trouble with the 6 oz, it craters a hole down through the spru, so when you cut off the spru there is a hole down through the bank sinker.

I called a couple of places and they understood when I said MIBK. Thanks Richoc. They said "Oh, thats for vinyl paint" but when I had asked before for thinner for vinyl paint they didn't know what I was talking about MSDS sounds like Spannish MSDS Material Saftey Data Sheet.

It is polyamide epoxy. The brand is Coronado. I get it a Dugan paints. Around $50 for a 2 gal kit.

Does anyone use a different thinner for Components vinyl paint than what they sell? I have tried a local paint store and automotive paint place and they didn't know anything about vinyl. Thanks,

Hey Richoc, what is Etex? How do you apply it? I use an epoxy from a local paint store that is suppose to be the same as Componets , I mix 1 to 1, and its sprays great thru a small top cup paint gun. It seems to be as durable as powder paint. I havn't noticed any yellowing. How soon before you notice the yellowing? I have some Pearl colored lures that have been painted for about 2 months and they still look good.

Hi Jig Man, I have several Lee pots that have rusted. We switched to the RCBS melting pot with a stainless liner and they have rusted or something. They get this crusty stuff in the pots and you have to scrap to get it out. I had another pot that is 1/4" thick cast iron, and sets on a propane burner, it rusted also. I made one out of 1/4" hot rolled carbon steel and it has not rusted. I have had it about 2 years. I don't know why.