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blackjack

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Everything posted by blackjack

  1. https://www.freemansupply.com/products/machinable-media/renshape-tooling-and-high-temperature-work-boards
  2. Just finished cutting a master with the P/U board; stuff is tremendous for making a master
  3. 3d printers are great for prototyping, you can have a lure in your hand to test in less than an hour or two. For molding purposes I design the lure and mold as one process and create masters to create molds for resin and foam lures. The mold masters pictured were designed in CAD and printed on an SLA printer. SLA printing is expensive. A decent build volume for a SLA printer will set you back close to 10K just for the base model. Im not sure what CAD program you are working with but I have switched from Fusion 360 to Vetric Aspire and the design and build process is the bomb with Aspire!!
  4. I have been playing with a stencil project for the baits that I make and for repaint purposes. first test prints so I am getting close, gotta thin the shell down and make the alignment tabs a bit thicker. What baits are you wanting to make stencils for?? K/O baits or for your own baits?
  5. Depends upon how deep your pockets are. If you are willing to put the time and effort in there are kits available that will cut wood an aluminum all day long http://www.cncrouterparts.com/pro4824-4-x-2-cnc-router-kit-p-250.html
  6. Personally I would pass on the duplicator unless you are doing production work. I went with a CNC and have never looked back. The cnc gives me the freedom to cut all of the jigs necessary for drilling operations, lip slotting, and cutting lure bodies with minimal sanding. Want to change your design? No problem, a couple of mouse clicks., wider,thinner,longer. shorter all in a couple of clicks of the mouse. Design to a solid body prototype in hand in 1 hour!! Need lips cut, cut them on the cnc. Need belly weight molds, cut them on the cnc. See the pattern there! J.M.H.O.
  7. Radial arm saw and a jig to hold the bait while it is being cut
  8. Personally I would build a wooden bait to completion,test, test again, and retest, then mold. Kinda hard to make changes once you do the molding
  9. I think the plastic idea is an excellent one . I will be experimenting with solid garolite rod in 1/8" and 3/16" and will post my progress this coming week!
  10. I have been working on a jointed bait as well. There are a bunch of solutions that I modeled up. I am going to make some of both styles and the bait with the better action will get the nod! PonyFoot123, if you look at the picture of the top profiles you can see that the angles are different on each side of the cut. This strategy will give your tail section a make a much wider swing in the movement in the tail of the bait
  11. If I were going to attempt something like this I would design a body profile with the head(or front of the lure) that pushes water to create the action that you are trying to achieve. As far as joints go, depends upon what you are building with, wood, resin/foam etc.
  12. I have been honing my crankbait skills in a deep ,dark, dank cave. I have alot more time these days as I retired from my day job. Its good to see the O.G. crew is still around. Also thank you Mr Hughes for you compliment!!
  13. I have tried many of the various manufacturers chrome paint and have used the Alsa MirraChrome. It is expensive and it does work if the directions are followed to a T and you use their clear coat(also expensive), It must be on a glossy black base or the effects are muted. I prefer good old aluminum foil tape. As you can see there are many ways to manipulate the foil to create interesting patterns.
  14. Thank you. that means alot to me coming from you!!
  15. I have been using Fusion 360, MeshMixer, and 123Design, For about a year know. I transferred all of my designs over to CAD/CAM and now have quite the library that are all set-up to cut in a matter of minutes, Last pic is the design I did yesterday for the jig that I am going to use to cut the lip slot and drilling operations. The more you use the software the easier it becomes. I had no previous CAD/CAM experience before starting last fall
  16. blackjack

    BJCBPunisher

    Just a little Punisher skull foil job
  17. Just read on another site that long time lure builder "Coley" passed away in August. Coley contributed alot of very useful information concerning making molds to pour foam crankbaits here over the course of many years. He was using foam for hard lures way before it was fashionable to do so. He will be missed!!
  18. Dont need to sell you any I'll give them to you. I have a bunch that are already stripped down to bare plastic. Your mold guy should have no problem duplicating these. Just PM me your contact info and I will get them out in the mail monday morning!!
  19. WD wiggle Wart= deep rattling flat wart- dives to 13'(a larger version made by Rapala, Rapala also makes a similar sized version as the original flat wart ) , If you are looking to get another mold made the original flat wart is just as a productive bait as the original wiggle wart. It exhibits the same erratic action as the wiggle wart but with less woble.In the early Spring I have both tied on and let the fish dictate as to which one they prefer.
  20. i would bet my last dollar that at least one of those baits is not wood at all and was made in a 2 part mold, Looks like a carolina killer. Mark Collins who used to frequent this site was remaking the old killers
  21. The oldest wiggle warts retailed in a yellow and red package and were made here in the USA, the molds were not the CNC cut molds of today so there was a bit of flash left over when the halves were assembled. Some were slightly out of alignment when glued as well. The plastic used was a softer plastic than is used today by manufacturers and the weighting system was soft lead which gave the lures a unique sound in the water. Storm moved the production of the baits to Mexico to cut expenses and hence the Yellow and Blue box warts were introduced These baits are still catching fish today. Enter Rapala, Rapala purchased Storm and let the molds of the originals that were in Mexico disappear. Rapala reverse engineered their new version of the Wart that had a 2 piece body, a lip, and a body . This bait was a total flop. So Rapala once again reengineered their version of the Wart which is very close to the originals is a pretty decent bait. The only difference I can tell is that the plastic is a different density and hardness from the Storm originals so it has a sound that is much more metallic.
  22. Razor blade and some elbow grease, The lip is probably loose already, Bagleys and old Poes are notorious for that!!
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