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Senkosam last won the day on October 28 2017

Senkosam had the most liked content!

About Senkosam

  • Birthday 05/09/1949

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    lurecraft and lure design, fishing for most freshwater species

    Contact: senkosam@nybass.com

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  1. Just can't help myself. I the weather is uncooperative, I'm down in the basement with the candle and soldering iron making new and unique designs. The challenge is finding new lure actions that incite the strike. When we fish various lures, hard or soft, we take note (or should) of a lure's actions we see beneath us in the water. Those that consistently catch fish may have actions that are obvious, some not so much. Take the Kut Tail Worm for example by Gary Yamamoto. Rigged on a light 1/32 oz jig with a #2 hook, the action is incredible as it whips from side to side mid-depth. The plastic he uses is unique, pretty much what he uses to make the Senko and the worm/stick is tapered from front to back. No other worm has that action nor can be used as a mid-depth jerk worm. The Kut Tail Worm: Sometimes a lure's fish-catching action is not obvious but still catches fish via it's shape/ size/ speed and type of retrieve (presentation). It doesn't take much for a lure to affect a fish's senses - especially fish that are irritable to begin with, but isn't that what makes fish strike - stimuli sensed by the lateral line, confirmed by sight and the ear as to a lure's vulnerability coupled with an annoying confusion (?) what that weird object is doing trespassing in its space? Better yet is when the lure turns on the school resulting in one fish after another. Modified lures that catch fish are proof that fish don't and can't think about what a lure might represent. Most important is that the lure evokes a temper tantrum resulting in an attack of the mysterious object - sometimes multiple attacks by the same fish. The nice thing about soft plastics is the infinite lure designs you and I can discover that catch fish - many that are far better than those sold. Here some that have done well since I posted last: The French Fry stick that hasn't been to successful (at least not for me), turned out to be valuable when cut into segments and attached to various tail shapes. The original: The Claw: Note: crappie, bass and perch Straight flat tail: Curl tail added: Joker tail with Fr Fry: So why the all-flat sided body? I've used Mr Twister Grubs for decades never once wondering why curl tail grub bodies were always round. Granted they caught fish, but since when were they the only shape? Course when you thing about it, many fish have flat sides and present larger profiles when seen laterally in the water. In any case, no more round grub shapes for me! (unless tail shape calls for it) Another hybrid design I call the Club Tail : Notice the almost clear tail and species : white perch, crappie and sunfish. You might wonder what kind of action from nothing more than a chubby mini-stick-no-tail. It waddles with rod tip twitches and catches everything! Reminds me of the waddle of the Zara Spook waddling back and forth on the surface except now subsurface. Remember one thing: the above lures each have unique actions and all catch fish in all likelihood due to action and shape. All are rigged on light ball head jigs 1/32, 1/24, 1/16 oz. and hook sizes to match lure body length such that the hook comes out half way or a bit less. 8# test braid line and light action - medium action rods are used. Can't delete these two photos from this spot.
  2. I've added American Fishing Wire (AFW) Tooth Proof Stainless Steel Single Strand Leader Wire to small jig heads for around 10 years. The guard is a narrow loop attached to the base of the line tie by wrapping one side, bending the wire such that the rounded tip is just before the barb, bent just a bit and the other end completing the wrap in the other direction. The wire comes in many gages rated by pound test. I use the thinnest and it allows me to slowly work a fallen tree branch without getting hung up as well a lily pads. You might consider using the wire in your jig making process. A little goes a long way.
  3. Most times I keep the temp below 300, stirring to see of the plastic can be injected and is free from inconsistent smoothness. I've seen the bubbling,, stir the plastic and reheat it and it usually disappears. But thanks for the tip.
  4. I think I still have some and when I find it will add it to see if there's any difference. Even a slight yellow tinge in my clear baits is no big deal considering the fact that clear lures aren't colorless underwater.
  5. Bought it. like it ! Question: I still have plastic in jugs at least 6 years old. Is it normal for some of it to yellow a bit before color is added after heating to 325 degrees? No problem if dye is added which covers it.
  6. Use the boiled water method to straighten out warped bodies. Never knew it made them softer but will check that out. Thanks for the head up.
  7. Melted plastic will always produce vapors - the higher the heat the more. Whether it causes serious chronic respiratory problems is dependent on how much is melted and how often. Producing a good amount of lures to sell seems to be a sure way of upping the odds of that happening. Ventilation is key meaning the use of a fan to ventilate fumes upward into a ceiling vent or horizontally as in my example. Like I said, I inhale second hand smoke from my pipe daily but not enough that I can't run up and down stairs a few times or jog 40 yards at a clip. If you can't do that without breathing difficulty, future lure making in quantity is in doubt. At most I only heat plastic 20 minutes in a 24 hour period and most times only a few times a week - if that. My melted plastic has no smell but will if I heat it beyond a certain temperature.
  8. I heat plastic in the basement. If I plan on heating a lot to pour the same color plastic in different molds I open the window above and put a small fan facing outside. If the smell is a bit too much, I take that fan out and use are very large, circular floor fan directed toward the window. Never have found the need for a face mask. (Of course the wife bitches about my pipe smoke and I have to do it anyway at least 5 minutes every 30 minutes.) One thing I found extremely important was to NEVER overheat plastic and to accomplish that I heat 30-45 seconds at a time until injectable which is usually 300 degrees or less. Even once a good temperature is reached doesn't mean the plastic won't yellow especially when over 5 years old or crap plastic to begin with. I don't sell lures and don't have to worry about keeping stocked up on different designs in different colors. Besides, I use parts of plastic lures to make totally different lures fusing the parts together using a candle flame. Been doing that for over 10 years or more and happy knowing I can reproduce them at any time.
  9. Medium soft is fine for micro lures and larger swimbaits.
  10. Some more: Here I added a Mann Augertail worm tail to a grub body:
  11. No bubbles indicating moisture. Just yellowing.
  12. To buy that much plastic you must be selling ! I admire those who do sell lures in that they must have the discipline to consistently reproduce the same exact colors and lure softness for every order. Not me which is why I don't sell lures - only glitter. I can't only use a few lures that I know catch fish when fish are found and active. Variety is the spice of fishing as I've said many times before where color variety is secondary to the combination of design, action and size - at least for me, soft plastic being the most versatile material of all. When I look at many of the soft plastic lures sold on Ebay, I shake my head knowing that they don't have what it takes to catch the most fish most of the time and with different presentations - another part of fishing variety. I'm fortunate having local waters I can test lure designs/presentations and record the best of them on my pc via photos for future reproduction.
  13. Don't pour nearly as much as I used to. You must sell lures. I never did - personal use only. Now with a candle flame to fuse lure parts together, hand poured or store bought stored for decades, I come up with much better designs for catching all freshwater species. Last year I bought molds off Ebay cheap and use the parts from those pours not found on the usual mold sites. Guess I'll have to buy new plastic for clear lures or lure parts. BTW - M-F never responded to my voice recording asking the question about yellowing.
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