robalo01

Do you mean Bullet-nose Jig? Can you list the Model Ids?

I have been pouring Do-it molds with Lee pots for about 25 years (yes I am old). I stopped using the bottom pour spouts about 8-10 years ago (I think). I find that fiddling with leaks and having to clean the spouts is just not worth the hassle. Here are my top 4 factors for pouring that if each are addressed will eliminate 99% of pouring failures (in order of importance). 1. Temperature. About 80% of the time that the mold doesn't pour properly, it is because the lead is not hot enough. The proper temp can be different for different alloys, but usually increasing the temp by either turning up the thermostat, giving it more time or reducing the amount of lead in the pot will correct the problem. 2. Alloy. The purer the lead, the easier it will pour. When turning up the temp isn't enough, lead purity is my next troubleshoot. 3. Flow. I know bottom pour seems convenient, but I have found that a 2-3 oz ladled in the right shape, filled no more than halfway will allow you to pour the lead in the very center of the gate AND you can see what you are doing. In my experience, the flow from a ladle is superior the valve on a Lee pot. Can't speak for the more expensive brands. 4. Mold Design. I have not found an unmodified Do-it mold that I could not pour (I have over 100 of them, granted all in the 1/16 to 4 oz range). I used to wonder why my older ones poured more easily than the new ones. I have come to believe that when molds are newer and tighter, the air doesn't escape as easily and can make the harder to pour than "seasoned" molds. One trick is to hold them a little "loose" in your hand. Don't clamp down too hard. I have an old Arrow Head mold that I had almost given up on until I learned this trick. Now, once they are modified, they can be troublesome -- particularly using larger hooks than originally intended. Note that I never preheat molds and have very little faith in "fluxing". This is just my take. i am sure others have different experiences. Stephen

I use molder's clay. Before you mold put a light coat of Vaseline on it with your finger, hit it with a hair drier until it is shiny, then put it in the fridge for 8-10 min before molding.

I have been looking for that mold. Can you share?

Hi, Are there any good tube making videos out there? I can seem to find much on youtube. Especially looking for tail cutting. Stephen

I took a swallow gasoline once while cleaning my fishing reel. It actually doesn't taste anything like a Diet Coke but for a minute it wasn't bad. I also went to work one early morning a couple of months ago and the door was locked!!! I started to get really angry thinking everybody was late until I remembered we moved to a new building 2 years ago. Please don't mention this to my employees.

Reviving this thread. Line tie placement is also really important. As I am tinkering with design, I made several baits of the same size (3.25" Poe-like design), shape and ballast (3/16 oz in front of the front hook) and will be installing the same lip and line tie placement with different lip angles to test the difference in performance/action. There is a Bagley design that I really like with about a 30 deg lip angle. I will let you know what I found.

I tried the lacquer and really liked it. I did find out that you have to wait until the lure dries well before re-dipping (light sanding in between). All together 3 dips did the trick.

Anybody know if LPO is having a Black Friday sale?

I have been sealing with super glue, sanding and dipping in an acrylic sealer. Then sprying on 1-2 coats of acrylic primer, sandin in between until smooth enough to paint. I just wonder how people who do a lot of baits manage it, I have a felling they don't do a lot of hand sanding.

Hi, I am tinkering with the idea of making wooden baits in moderately large quantities (30-50 per day). The one thing that stumps me is the primer. I am looking for something thick to help cover imperfections. I saw a guy on Youtube (Toxic Baits) was dipping in white enamel. I have never had much luck with that method the paint seems to drag while it drags. Turning it doesn't work. Maybe I should work on thinning it? I saw Stamford Baits dips in some kind of white primer. What do most of you guys use? Anyone pigmenting epoxy and turning? Stephen

I used a floating additive (locally sourced) a few years ago. It wa kind of like adding water to the plastic. It foamed up. I used it on Craw claws. Looked neat. Didn't sell.

Anyone ever successfully made their own injector?

Can you make an Eagle Claw 413 hook fit a Trokar Weedless Football Jig Do-it mold?

I have about 100 do it molds. I never coat them with anything. When they don't work, I find that about 70% of the time the lead is not hot enough, 20% it is due to pouring technique (ladle vs spout, size of the stream) and the other 10% is due to the composition of the lead.

I think is called a Ladyfish. Nobody?

Trying to find an injection mold for this lure. 3.5" and 4.5" https://1drv.ms/i/s!Ag2OzosEpafZhKQLgk5hC8UZT8A5TQ

I have never understood what the GY jig was trying to accomplish. Isn't this just a very line-twist-prone jig? Why would one put the line time in the very nose? What keeps it from just spinning all the way to the boat?

I recently modified a Poison Tail mold to take Eagle Claw 635s for salt water jigs. I just filed down an aluminum pin (the ones Do-it sells to make the hole for the weadguard) so that it makes a smooth surface where the weedguard went. I left the mushroom head on there, I just have to be sure it is straight when I poor.

Well, at least for mine, Bears injectors tips fit tighter than the BT. I am more concerned with the BT tips to slip out if I don't lock them than my Bears injectors. Just me, maybe.

Is Mek the stuff used as hardener for Poliester resin?

I would add that I also have a threaded injector. I never use it. I would sell it, except if I sell it to a friend I risk losing his friendship.

I have both with (BT) and without (Bears) the pin. Whether or not you use the locking pins depends on how you are heating plastic. If you are pulling from a mic-heated pyro, the pin is a must because if you are pushing out the left-over plastic back into the cup, you can't push against anything -- without the pin, you can cause a mess. But, if you are drawing from a presto pot, you can push against the edge to empty the plunger. I only use the BT ones when I am shooting samples. For production with presto pots, Bears gets the nod all of the time. I have had two of the larges for 4 years with 2 extra tips. I only have to change the o-rings from time to time. Punching out the tip and replacing it quickly increases production. I have gotten burned a couple of times, but it has always been due to carelessness while stirring hot plastic. Wear Gloves and long sleeve shirt. Respect the plastic. Stephen

I would make an Epoxy Resin mold of the mold you want to replicate. Then pour as many silicone molds as you want. I use this method for all of my molds. For hard molds, I make a soft "template" for soft molds I make a hard " template".

Smoothe'on MoldMAx 30 will work