overkill

Do a google image search of "nile perch" thats what most of the tilapia are called by the locals in the south.

Hey guys, I haven't been on here for a while but I'm back. I would love to get in on the get together if its not too late. I would just drive down I'm only about 40 mins away. If you guys are planning on booking hotel I would do it in a hurry. That is right in Turkey season and hunters "flock" in to Truman that time of year. Also crappie fisherman are hitting the lake pretty hard. And I believe thats about the time of the white bass run. If you are looking for civil war history. I believe there is a lot of stuff in Lone Jack which is not far away from Clinton at all. One of my friends mother runs the website for the Lone Jack history Website www.historicLoneJack.org I could find out if there is any thing worth checking out. Do you guys have schedule of things planned? .org

If you do a search on this, I did a major fact finding mission about this time last year. I brainstormed many ideas and tried lots of things. I finally found the answer. I used a spray can of SEM Color Coat on a large shad body I had and it worked perfect. I did not experiement any more after that. SEM Color Coat is used to dye or repair vinyl and leather seats. It comes in many colors in spray cans, Or it can be bought in regular paint cans to spray yourself, with an airbrush. The real answer is in the fact that it can be bought in clear either matte or gloss finish. The clear can then be tinted any color you want with your own tints. I believe you could use the worm colorants but did not test that out yet. There are also many other brands out there besides SEM, but it seemed the easiest to find. Try talking to someone at an auto vinyl repair shop, such as Dr. Vinyl and the could probably give you the best scoop on all the products available.

I have found that if I mix some regular Bondo body plastic with some Bondo fiberglass resin I get better results. It makes is just a little more soupy than regular body plastic, but doesn't shrink as bad as plain resin. It also makes it easier to replicate detail without air bubbles. It seems like it should last a little longer also

what you are seeing is the glass microspheres that give it its bouancy. They float to the top and "cake" together. If you poke though it you will find a very viscous liquid underneath. Its the only part I don't like, but the good out weighs the bad. I use a mixing rod attached to my cordless drill to mix.

Blisters.com

I like Automotive primer in a spray can for a base coat. Sprays easy, dries fast, and adheres good. I don't like latex base coat because it takes forever to dry and it is thick and spongy feeling after drying. For you guys who want to use a latex primer and have it dry faster, I think you can thin with alcohol.

Also, I don't know if any of you bought or saw the Rapala fishing DVD. In there were snippets of there lure making process, and there lures aren't made that different than many of you guys here who make wooden baits. I saw that there hook hangers had huge globs of clear coat on them, so they must clean them of with some kind of brush or something?

I think most of us don't worry about getting clear on the hangers. Coat the whole lure, put it on drying wheel if you have one, and then after the clear sets use a wire wheel on a dremel tool to clean it off.

I shoot the regular Createx and "Auto Air" If you can find a shop that sells auto body repair and auto paint supplies see if they carry Auto Air. Go in and look and the color book. Its freakin ridiculus. when you pick up a bottle to try, purchase the siphon tube cap with it. No mess, no mixing , no cleaning paint jars or cups. The color selection is just sick man.

I don't thin them, in fact I tried and I didn't like the results. I use the smallest tip on my VL and like the results. I am by no means a master. I have spent much more time learning the art of mold making and lure design over the past few years. I am just now focusing on perfecting my paint jobs. Also The Auto Air paints seem to be a tad thinner. I love using the Auto Air paints with the siphon caps on them. It really saves alot of time, mess, and conserves alot of paint. It also keeps foreign particles out. One other thing-The Auto Air reducer works great with other acrylic craft paints that come to thick, but hopefully I will switch completely to Auto Air and not need to use it anymore.

I just finished spraying a bait with my pasche vl. I always set my regulator to about 23-25 psi. I use the bottle tops to spray directly out of the createx bottle. I don't thin. I think at 45 psi you would have so much air blowing around it would be hard to control and not make a mess. Just a note, but my I like my air tank to have close to 100 psi in it and have my regulator set to 25psi. this way the air flow is steady.

Aspen is a poplar wood. Although it is in the hardwood category of trees, the wood is soft. Poplar wood is a water logged wood, and because of there rapid growth rate it has little integrity.

I just read that today, keeps me pumped about lure making

Rico, If your molds are of the right kind of silicone, that may just work. I am sure that silicone molds can take heat, but when dealing with a microwave you are not talking about heat. You are dealing with molecular vibration, and I don't now how silicone reacts to that. If the silicone is unaffected then that would be great because only the plastisol would heat up. Only one way to find out though, but remember safety first.