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benton B

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Posts posted by benton B

  1. super glue is not a good sealer by itself, need to do a coat of devcon before painting and clear coat.   I've used just super glue on baits I've wanted to fish and the same thing happened.    What super glue does for a wood bait is give the wood a good hard outer shell to resist dents and dings.

     

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  2. The way I seal balsa wood cranks is as follows, 1 coat of super glue then lightly sand, 1 coat of flex coat rob builder's epoxy, scuff with 320 grit, prime, paint, and clear coat with flex coat ultra v high build.   I have foiled baits over 10yrs old that have held up.   I've been building since 2002 and never had a issue with my seal coat peeling off of foil.

     

  3. 22 hours ago, Chris Catignani said:

    @RiverSmallieGuy

    The have an epoxy that called Rod Builders epoxy that does have a faster set up time...its not 5 minute...but more like 30 minutes to set up and longer to cure and get hard.

    rod builders epoxy is good for sealer coat but I would not use it to clear coat, no uv additives in that porduct

     

  4. I use a long cotter pin that runs the length of lip back into the bait.  I drill a small hole at the bottom of the lip slot for the cotter pin to fit under the lip slot.  Once the lip is epoxied in place the cotter pin is set and will not come loose.   Circuit board material will wear down in time if you are cranking rocks.  

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  5. Tally, I started here in 2003 as well and Skeeter was my mentor thru the early learning.   I spent many hours on the phone with that guy getting grilled on the proper way to build a bait.  I still use the same methods today and I do consider myself a custom builder.   I'm still hand carving all my baits and can build about 30 different baits from top water to true deep runners.   I answer questions on here from time to time but seems most guys now only paint plastic blanks.   I hate painting so I have nothing to offer most of the new guys paint better than me.

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