benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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You can post pics on FB in Wood Bait Nation, those guys will know for sure.
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Are there 3 ink pen marks on the tail by the hook hanger? If so those are originals.
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My compressor is from Sears and has a 20gal tank so I can paint like 10 baits before I refill the tank. It is very loud when running but I only need to fill the tank maybe once per painting session.
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My method is 1 coat of super glue, 1 coat of epoxy, 1 coat of primer
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Look at house of kolor paints, several guys here used that paint back in the day.
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I like my prop baits with just a hint of tail down in the water. You should look at the old devil's horse for a reference. I've never built a prop bait as big as you are planning.
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I don't use etex but I do use a coat of flex coat rod builder's epoxy over every bait before I paint. Never had a problem with water based paint not sticking to the epoxy coat.
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I use 1 coat of super glue to make a hard outer shell and then a coat of epoxy for smooth surface to paint.
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Blue painter's tape works well for me and does not leave the residue behind.
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If you have the room get a compressor with a 20 or 30 gal tank. I fill my 20 gal and paint for approx. 3hrs before it needs to be filled again.
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Balsa USA is another company but I've never done business with them.
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National balsa wood co
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Let e-tex sit for about 8 min and it won't be so runny when you brush it on your baits, brush off the excess also. You will need 2 coats anyway.
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If you want to harden the balsa use runny superglue it will give the bait a hard outer shell. Cut the lip slot deeper and maybe just a tad lower on the chin of that bait in the pic. I would also twist screw eyes from 20ga ss wire, less chance of cracking the wood.
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Flex coat makes a glitter to mix with the rod finish and it's ultra fine. I mix in the first clear coat and it's pretty smooth when cured but then I do a 2nd coat and it's perfectly smooth. It might be the size of glitter you are using.
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Belly weight for 2 1/4 flat side balsa bait
benton B replied to gary armstrong's topic in Hard Baits
I would start with a 1/8oz and test. I build baits that size and that's the ballast weight I use. I use xps finesse weights from bass pro, cut to the size I want and then add a 1/16 brass cotter pin for the hanger. -
Mix 1:1 do not add more hardener it will affect the mixed batch. Let the mixed batch sit for 8-10 min before brushing on your baits.
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taxidermy sites will carry wildlife colors, the one Hughesy posted is the company I deal with for paint.
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I had the same issue using flexcoat with a fast lure turner. I now use a turner that rotates at 6rpm and no more problem with pooling.
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Your turner is moving too fast for a thin clear coat. Let the mixed batch of etex sit for about 8-10 min before you coat a lure so it's not so thin.
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I install the hardware before sealing. 1 coat super glue to harden the wood, 1 coat epoxy to seal the wood.
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I use a cordless drill with a small allen wrench chucked, I think it's 5mm. Bend your wire into a U shape grab the tag ends with vise grips, slip loop over the allen wrench and slowly twist.
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I'm in the camp with Bobp, very good notes are keep on each body style I build. Each body style has it's own formula for ballast weight, line tie position, lip angle, lip depth, line tie and hook hanger weights, and finally the wood blank weight. When that bait is finished it will be within of .010 of the finished weight in the formula or that bait does not make the cut. This is the process I use and it works for me. I do all my field testing in the warmer months.
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I've been building the same models of cranks for years now and never put one in the water to see if runs. If you follow a repeatable formula for building your cranks then there should not be any problems from the 1st bait to 100th bait. If you make a change in the formula then you might run into problems.
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Wildlife colors has a blue/red flip flop paint. That might give you color change you are looking for.
