benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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Ken, are you looking for baits ready to paint?
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Right now I have 8 baits primed and ready for paint, 8 on the spinner just sealed, approx. 14 on the work bench in different stages of adding hardware.
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I suggest 1/32 lexan for you bills, I use it on tiny ul balsa cranks and it works well. You can order from Micro Marc.
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You will end up with a bait that doesn't work. Those line tie positions will work for lipless baits but not on a lipped bait. You need to move the line tie to the lip to get a little more depth. I would start by placing the line tie 1/8 of inch from the nose.
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I use a pair of tweezers for that job but that is great idea.
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my own research showed for 1 inch of bill length you get approx. 7ft of depth. I find lexan bills run a bit shallow and circuit board bills to run a tad deeper than the projected depth.
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When You Think You've Done Everything Right And Still Get Fisheyes?
benton B replied to MarkNY's topic in Hard Baits
Sometimes you can brush the epoxy too thin in one area and it will leave a spot like that as it cures. Another coat will fix those spots. -
You may want to try a round body design to get the wide wobble. You can also try moving the line tie under the nose, right on top of the lip. That position gives my baits a strong wobble.
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all the on-line retailers get their bills from the same source. I will make a guess and say the source cannot keep up with demand or something like that.
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I only use the hard balsa for my baits, so I'm not sure if the really soft balsa would hold up. Should have mentioned that in the first reply. For my minnow style baits that float, I use 1/32 at the front hanger to get the nose of the bait down in the water just a little.
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No need to thru wire the bait, just use twisted wire and it will hold just fine. I've never had a wire pull out of my bang-o lure style baits. Good luck with the build.
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Here is how I would try to paint this pattern. Pearl white base coat, light smoke colored scales over the shoulders and back, transparent brown over the back and shoulders, light orange on the throat, and then take an artist brush to dab the lat line in black.
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Nathan, I think that is a pre-bent wire look made from .040 soft stainless. I don't know the exact definition of annealed but it makes the wire softerfor bending. I like a 1/16 x 1 inch brass cotter pins for line ties when I put the line tie in the bill.
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What Is Your Favorite Crankbait Pattern To Paint?
benton B replied to Matt Moreau's topic in Hard Baits
I suck at painting my baits. Nothing worse than building a master piece and then think crap I've got to paint it. My hats off to the guys with theairbrush skills. I'm with Bob and Ben, simple colors laid down clean is about all I can hope for when it comes to painting. My fav pattern wouldhave to be a simple shad or citrus shad. -
Thanks for all the info guys. I'm not going to name the company that I'm having problems with but they are suppose to hand select my wood but I keep getting very soft balsa in my orders. I'm tired of paying extra for the sevice and not getting the said service. By the way I have a load of med density balsa if anyone is interested.
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I'm having problems with the company I curretly use and need suggestions for a new company to order wood.
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That was a very nice tour of your operation. Your price is very fair for balsa cranks. From someone who still does it in the corner of my garage I say thank you for showing me the next level. I have to work my butt off to make 500 baits a year but it's fun work.
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I've used the wicked paint over regular c-tex colors and wildlife colors without any problems. I've been slowly moving to wicked paints over other brands in certian colors and like Mark said it seems to dry faster and can be sprayed on a little thicker.
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Nice bait Mark. I used tungsten balls to weight my version and it has a slightly tail first fall. I used 1/2 stock but if I build another bait it wiil be from 3/8 stock.
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I've made one but only tank tested so far. It's made from balsa so weighting was the biggest issue but with props it was not hard to get a sinker. I did a plain shad pattern with foiled sides and used #2 dumbell props, 3.5 inches long and weighes a light 1/2oz with a moderate sink rate. A heavier material for the body would work better with weighting in my opinion. On day I hope to test it fishing.
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Bob is right, most two part epoxies yellow, some faster than others. I've been using flex coat ultra v for awhile and I'm very happy with the results.I was using devcon but I noticed the yellowing on white/pearl baits and switched. I like the flex coat for two reasons, the uv filters and it's a softer finish so it's more impact resistant than devcon. These are the only two products I can speak about, all I've ever used.
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What Should I Seal Balsa Wood With Before Applying Acrylic?
benton B replied to CajunBlade's topic in Hard Baits
1 coat of ca glue and 1 coat of epoxy, this is my method. Like everything else with wood cranks, find a system that fits your style. I prefer flex coat products for my sealer and clear coat but others prefer to use different products. -
I install lips before painting. For me it's to insure the lip is perfectly straight in the bait, sometimes I have to some extra work to fix the lip slot. I think it's a personal deal and each builder has to find the method that works for them.
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I have both the Revolution and Eclipse gravity feed brushes and I never have to thin my paint. Wildlife colors, polytranspar, and createx all spray just fine thru both brushes.
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I've used candy foil for several yrs now and it's pretty simple to apply. I like a thin foil and the selection of colors. I coat the bait with epoxy before painting.
