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WidowMaker's Achievements


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  1. I actually had purchased some of the acid brushes from Harbor Freight but never used them for epoxy coatings Im needing something smaller and with a finer bristle. I will check you guys sources.
  2. I did a online search but didn't have any luck...maybe I didn't enter my search info correctly. Im trying to locate some of the smaller plastic handle paint brushes with the metal ferrules. W-Mart used to have them but hasn't carried them for several years now. The reason I would rather use the metal ferruled ones is that the bristles are much finer than the ones on the brushes where the bristles are molded directly into the plastic handle. You can also use a pair of needle nose pliers to crimp and flatten the metal ferrule to fan out the bristles for easier spreading of epoxy and other clear coats. The finer bristles of the metal ferruled brush seem to do a better job in spreading out the epoxy clear coat. I mix my epoxy off the bottom of a aluminum can and when I add denatured alcohol for thinning purposes I can use the flattened bristle to pull the epoxy up off the bottom of the can for a better thinning mixture. You can crimp and flatten the plastic handle ones if you pay attention to the fold of the bristles and how they are inserted into the brush handle. If you don't crimp it in alignment with the fold of the bristle the bristles have a tendency to separate from and come out of the handle. But still the finer bristles of the metal ferrule brushes work better. Does anybody k now where to find them?
  3. If a fish sits there and ignores your bait pull it past him about two inches off his nose about ten times in row. And then pull it up to him and bust him in the side of head with it as hard as you can and he will be annoyed enough that he will take the bait.
  4. I don't know the exact temperature of the lead. I have never felt the need to know the exact temp of lead when I was pouring due to the fact that I have never really had any major un-solvable trouble with pouring lead. I always let the lead tell me what temp adjustments to make according to how it was pouring at the time. I'm fluxing with a high bees wax content candle wax. But I did check the outlet and the wiring was not connecting quite as tight as it should have been. Everything is working good now. Im stirring the lead during the fluxing and I'm getting good pours now.
  5. Thanks for the information guys and I appreciate it. I bought the pot from someone I know well and I remember when he purchased it. He is big on jig fishing and used it to pour bass jigs for his own personal use where he had bought a two thousand count of each size 1/0 2/0 3/0 jig hook and that's all the use the pot has had on it. I remember he always kept it on a shelf in a temp controlled garage so it hasn't been subjected to a lot of drastic temperature and humidity changes. When I cleaned the dust off it looked brand new with no peck marks around the top edge of the opening and no scratches on the base. The green paint on the base isn't even dis-colored. The arky and horse head molds he ordered with it looks like they've hardly been used. I have adjusted the flow rate from a heavy flow to a moderate flow and can tell the difference in what I'm getting but either which way I'm still getting shorts. But then again this only happened on the one particular day that I tried it out. Maybe the mold wasn't hot enough. I always pour blank shots into each cavity and then set the mold on top of the pot. But there is always the possibility the mold wasn't hot enough.
  6. I have acquired a RCBS Pro Melt with not many hours of use on it and I'm getting numerous short pours on the Do-It Bullet Bass Jig. I have heard some of the newer RCBS Pots are not built as well as the older models but this particular RCBS Pot is about fifteen years old. I'm using a lead mix that is soft enough that short pours should not be occurring but I'm getting a lot of short pours on the collar section of the jig. I am not pouring multiple loaded cavities per individual mold shot but rather I am pouring one cavity with one hook and base pin per individual mold shot. The only time I'm not getting a short pour is when I pour into the blank cavity next to the hook and base pin loaded cavity. I am pouring the blank cavity next to the loaded cavity once every other shot in order to heat the loaded cavity to prevent a short pour. I am also keeping the pot at least 3/4 of the way full and placing the tip of the discharge barrel down into the gate of the mold and "injecting" the lead into the mold cavity to keep the air temp from cooling the lead before it enters the mold cavity. I'm turning the thermostat all the way up but yet I'm noticing the surface of the lead isn't turning colors in the pot. With the other pots (a RCBS Pro Melt and a Lee 10 pound pot) when the thermostats are turned all the way up the lead always changes colors. With this RCBS Pot being turned all the way up there is no dis-coloration of the surface of the lead. Also I'm noticing that the mold isn't heating up to as high of a temperature as it would do with the other pots. I should not be having to turn this pot up to the highest setting to do pours. I also noticed that the red light inside of the on/off rocker type switch will not always be lit up when the switch is turned to the "on " position. I am plugging this pot directly into the wall outlet and not using a extension cord therefore its not a case of losing power loss due to cord length. NOTE FOR THE INEXPERIENCED: IT IS NOT SAFE TO USE AN EXTENSION CORD WITH A LEAD POT. I'm wondering if it might be a problem with not enough power being supplied to the electrical outlet. Either that or it is an issue with a faulty thermostat. I'm not too familiar with electricity so I don't know how to check the amount of current going to the electrical outlet. Any advice to offer in solving this problem???
  7. Thanks for the info guys and I truly appreciate the advice.
  8. I need to modify a jig mold cavity so that it will accomodate a larger sized hook. The primary thing I want to do is deepen and widen (and possibly elongate) the hook eye section of the mold cavity so that it will accommodate a larger size hook. (Concerning enlarging the hook shank section of the cavity. I can enlarge it by placing a straight wire shaft into a drill press with the wire inserted into the cavity from the bottom side of the mold and then slowly rotating the wire.) I am considering purchasing a Dremel Brand Rotary Tool and the Dremel Drill Press to do this. My question is has anyone here had any experience with the Dremel Drill Press and will the tolerances of this tool allow me to do that without there being any undue excessive side to side movement and or wobbling of the Dremel Rotary Tool? I do realize I might have to build a small platform surrounding the Dremel Drill Press deck for the mold to set stationary on and to be secured to.
  9. Any additional info available on horizontal tube dipping?
  10. I am wondering if it would be possible to epoxy a couple willow leaf blades to a smaller sized propeller. Im wondering how the extra weight of the brass willow leaf stock would work in regards to the rotation of the blade.
  11. I will take a look at the Craftsman Pliers.
  12. I sent Barlows a email about the larger air plane prop style proppeller blades in order to see if they offer 1000 piece count discounts. They emailed me back saying that if a person wanted 1000 of them they will have to buy ten 100 count piece bags and ten bags will cost the same individual price.
  13. Concerning the Twisttech: 01. What is the lightest thru the heaviest size wire that you can bend with it? 02. What all type of bends and or twists is it capable of producing? 03. Is it a user friendly a quick tool to use? I was under the impression you could only do standard leader wire twists and not coil bends, open end bends and r-bends.
  14. Im interestred in knowing how many different sources you guys have found for propellor blades the type like found on the old propellor and bead combo worm harness rigs. There are three different propellor blade styles that i know of: 01. Short Fat Rounded End Type. 02. Long & Thin w. Pointed Ends - Identical to a two bladed airplane propellor. 03. Longer & Thin w. Pointed Ends - Looks like a four bladed airplane propellor.
  15. Thanks for the info guys. I will probably be going with the Hagens wire bender and im sure i can find a tool and die maker to make the right parts to hand the smaller diameter wire.
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