KcDano

I have used a few basf products but, I don't recall ever using Dura-cryl. If you have been using epoxy, I don't think lacquer as a clear-coat will ever perform up to your expectations. There are better products (more durable) out there, but, they come with a price. You will have to use the recommended products from the primer up to the clear-coat to acheive the best that can be. I don't know what your situation is in regards to how many baits you make at a time or how often you make them. The majority of these products have limited shelf life once they air hits them they go bad quickly. This can be costly and one will incur significant waste, if their operation is not geared for production. In my situation, I am not refinishing baits for sale so I use lacquer, the same thinner goes in the primer, color, and clear, and on occasion, a splash of retarder to slick them out....easy, but not the most resiliant finish available. One of the toughest spray finishes that I am aware of is Dupont's Imron, has been around for years and is a reliable product. I would further investigate the urethane lacquer or check some of the custom paint maker's: House of Kolor, Metalflake; they still might make urethane clears that are compatible with lacquers.

That problem isn't exclusive to Bagley baits, I own several vintage baits that if not for the paint loss over the belly weight, would be darn near perfect. As cheesehead mentioned a controlled enviroment will slow the process. However, once the oxidation process (that nasty white powder) begins on the surface of lead beneath the paint, I don't if there is anything that can be done. The white oxidation in effect is what pops the paint of the lead weight. If you do find a remedy for this problem I would appreciate the heads-up!

Since some people here have trouble with Devcon yellowing and other's don't, is it possible that individuals that have the yellowing problem are adding too much catalyst and "over-cooking" the resin?

Ppg made a product years ago called Delclear it is a clear urethane which would go over lacquer. Don't think it is made anymore. Most likely that nason clear is not intended for use over lacquer, check the can label. Nason-(inexpensive paint line) paint was used by Maaco for years, I am confident Dupont's version is much better.

If there is a thermal reaction associated with the curing of the epoxy at some point if too much catalyst is used the heat generated adversely affects the epoxy. Fiberglass resin will spontanously combust if too much catalyst is used.

Skeeter, What brand of urethane clear are you using?

Skeeter, I wasn't aware of urethane lacquer, that is news to me and I know nothing about it. The duracryl I have used is automotive acrylic lacquer, produced by ppg. Most of the urethanes and polys are base-coat/ clear-coat systems. The base-coat is designed to be clear-coated with a urethane or poly clear to achieve optimal performance from the finish. The better the clear adheres to the base-coat the more resistant to chipping the clear-coat will be. The same applies to the acrylic lacquers.... clear lacquer is designed for application over acrylic lacquer colors or spot repairs over catylized enamels. It may lay down over another basecoat such as water-base paint and look good but durabillity will be sacrificed. Differences in expansion coefficents start to come into play; one expands at a greater rate than the other over time the weaker fails and peeling occurs. No, the clear finish doesn't gain hardness it just sticks better!

It is a trade off between: durability versus ease in application. The spray finishes that are now in use most likely are not as tough as the devcon epoxy and will be prone to chip more so than the epoxy. However, the durability of the majority of automotive spray finishes are dependent on what is used beneath the clear-coat. Many of the urethane, polyurethane and high solid clears on the market today require a certain base-coat to ensure durability and if applied over the correct base-coat will give you a reliable finish as what is seen on today's vehicles. But if you are using different base-coats such as water base paint, lacquer or some enamels then clear-coating with a urethane product the integrity of the finished product will be compromised and of a lesser quality than when adheres to the manufacturer's recommendations The duracryl that Skeeter mentioned is a clear lacquer product easy to use and correct mistakes, works good on lures, but again not as tough as epoxy. Something to think about, test the cleacoat that you have decided to use on a small area of the lure before spraying or brushing finishing the entire bait to see if there is a compatibility issue or you might have a wrinkled mess, but then again, that might be what the fish are looking for! Good Luck!

You might try autobody filler, I have used it on vintage wood lures with no loss in action. In addition, they make 2-part spot putty that works well also.

Where would fishing be today without the influence of the hand-made bait and the carver? Virtually all the advancements and innovations we enjoy today were originally concieved, created or refined by a individual pursuing the better bait. We have better materials, finishes, hooks and scientifically designed baits that offer optimal performance, however, 100+ years since the fist artificial bait was created, we are still dealing with a chunk of wood, hooks, some paint and a place to attach a line, the concept is a well seasoned one! The real value in your hand-made lures, is that the bait you are tinkering with today could bring about a new design, finish or refinement that can be enjoyed by millions in the future!

As to the concern of Devcon yellowing with age, could this possibly result from adding to much catalyst/hardner? I haven't had the opportunity to use devcon epoxy and don't know if there is a thermal reaction associated with the curing, if so, it could explain the varied results that have been expressed here. I have seen fiberglass that would darken from adding to much catalyst to the resin, and once too the point the mixture self-ignited.

I use 1/8 masking tape run the tape around the body in the area where you want the eyes placed. Looking down at the top of the bait find the center line of the lure then mark the tape at the center line, then decide how far down then decide how far down the side you want to place the eye and mark that on the tape. Then make a measurement from the center line mark on the tape to where you want to place the eye. Then simply use that measurement on the other side. If the bait is symmetrical the eyes should be right on!

If the finish you want to repaint is in good condition, all that is needed is to scuff the finish with a steelwool, sandpaper or a fine scotch brite pad. If you are repainting a plastic lure with molded details the scotch brite will cut the finish and provide a tooth for the paint to adhere too, without removing material at the rate sandpaper will, thus not destroying any fine details. #000 steelwool will perform as well as a nylon scotch brite, except you won't get as much mileage out of steel wool and it can became messy when used with water. If it is primed wood sandpaper is the way to go. I primarily use lacquer or enamel for basecoat and colors, lacquer will burn into most finishes and provide superior adhesion. You can take enamel paint and cut it with lacquer thinner and apply, by thinning with lacquer thinner you will reduce the drying time and soften the old finish which will give your new paint a better grip. You will lose some of the gloss retention of enamel when reducing it with lacquer, however, if you clearcoat, it makes no difference. Lacquer will give you better blends as well. In my opinion, lacquer is the best product for base and color, the topcoat or clearcoat is another thing.

Good to hear the fish like your bait and it did hold up well. I wonder how Skeeter's bait has held up? Do any of the epoxy proponets here use the epoxy designed for repairing wood. I wonder if it was used prior to priming and allowed to permeate the wood if it would result in a substantial stronger bait?

Something else to think about pertaining to exposure of hazardous materials. You can intake substantial amounts of chemicals through your eyes; the toxicity of some of the newer catalysts for automotive finishes are not anything you should fail to safegaurd yourself against. Full face mask is the only way to go if you spray automotive finishes, and if you have facial hair consider a mask with a full hood with positive air pressure.

I know car model enthusiast's used a certain brand of oven cleaner to safely remove paint from styrene plastic, However, I think it was enamel paint it removed, I have no idea if it will work on the newer poly-urethanes.

I wonder if there is a clear version of a material similar to the quality spray bed-liner products. As far a spray product, I believe it would be the most resilient finish one can get. However, there is a clear gravel guard the can be directly applied over color, it is utilize on the lower sections of auto bodies that are prone to rock chips and it is a bear to sand off. I haven't tried this on any of the vintage baits as of yet. However, as time goes on, I would like to eventually construct some of the balsa baits like so many of you here have done and I will try this gravel guard as opposed to epoxy. Using a brush to apply the final finish after spray application of the colors seems a bit backward to me and I am sure there is a better way, hopefully!! As far as the Urethane chipping it is dependent upon what it is applied over, many of these products do not adhere well to basecoats different than what they were designed for, but again, urethane will not with stand the rigors epoxy will!!

Nice Bait!!

I mostly repaint vintage lures to fish with and since most plugs I refinish have glass eyes, which without fail are busted out or cracked. I needed a means to replace them. So I explored for a cheap quick way of getting the job done. I have employed a Whitney hand punch to punch eyes from cd discs. With the reflective foil on the back they work well for my use. They come from the press dished out with a dimple in the middle, and which can be installed in a convexed or concaved position depending on which effect is desired. I simply place a dot of black enamel in the center. They eyes I have shown in the pictures are rather small in comparision to the majority of what I see here, however, different size punch dies are available for the whitney hand punch.

You might try sanding the run out and buffing the area, if the epoxy will buff out; 600 grit for initial sand then graduating down to 1000 or 1200 for the final wet-sand. Then one might consider using a automotive rubbing compound to buff the luster back. I have had some success with polishing certain epoxies, however, I haven't tried it on devcon.

Here is a old FlatFish that I still use, it is of the wood variety. You wanted to know what type of wood was used and if they have weight added. This lure has extensive crazing and in most cases, when a lure with a lead plug added has that much finish crazing there is a noticable ring around the lead; I see no evidence of any weight. I can't see enough of the wood grain to even hazzard a guess as to what type of wood it is. I hope this helps you some! Regards Dan

Tuff-is the adhesion promoter a wood product or automotive? Color-I am considering purchasing some of Wasco lacquers do the require additional thinning or are they ready to shoot? Thanks Dan

Hello fellow fisherman, I am new to this board and I must say I am impressed with knowledge, craftsmanship and experience you people have here. I haven't crafted any baits from scratch as of yet, however, I have refinished numerous vintage baits to fish with. What I would like to know is, if any of you here have dipped lures in lacquer primer for a basecoat? I have used automotive acrylic enamel for the same purpose, with good results. Due to the time it takes the enamel to cure. I anm sure lacquer primer would expedite the process. One other thing where can one purchase those metal paint sticks. Regards, Dan