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Travis

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Travis last won the day on July 4

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About Travis

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    Fishing, Aquariums, Photography, Carving, Woodworking, and countless others I can't seem to find time for.

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  1. Lure templates as a search will pop up what you are looking for. Most lures have side profile pictures so can just copy and paste into paint and resize as needed. Can then make a template for top down. Honestly pretty easy to just draw something up with a ruler, French curve, and circle template. I have also just free hand a lot lures. Just start whittling away what shouldn't be there. A couple links to solid preforming baits below. http://learnhowtomakefishinglures.blogspot.com/2014/03/free-fishing-lure-templates.html
  2. Dipping is how I applied it many years ago. It was essentially like dipping in water but was using to fill small pin holes/voids. I would dip about 3 times and be good to go on the baits I was molding at the time.
  3. If power carving this can be an issue. Never had any issues with a knife. That said a quick pass with a propane torch, lighter, etc.. will get rid of the basswood fuzz. Can also give quick spray of shellac then sand if getting caught chasing the problem.
  4. Can always just whittle down but always easiest to start with properly dimensioned stock. Many different ways to go about it with common hand tools (hand saws, planes, etc..) if you don't have power tools available. A Japanese pull saw will easily do the same in very little time and won't break the bank in regards to cost (less than 25 dollars). Can also use a traditional western saw also just I find Japanese pulls saws more enjoyable to use and the thin kerf blade easily slices through something as soft as PVC. Something like the Vaughn or Irwin saws typically sold at Menards, Lowes,
  5. I try and avoid using it at all costs as absolutely hate using the stuff however if you must venture to the dark side.... You will want to buy oversized stock and clean it up to get rid of the slick finish. I usually buy whatever brick molding they have on clearance and cut to size. However just a 1x2x8' or 1x4x8" white PVC trim board is historically what I bough. I then use a table saw to make two passes to cut the finished face off to get "clean" stock to work with. When I cut the lures out of the blank the top and bottom finished face will be removed cut off. https://www.men
  6. Easiest method for lures is just microwave. Small pieces can be dried by a few heat cool cycles in the microwave. Common practice with some wood turners. For carving I will take air dried wood any day over kiln dried. Very easy to just mill a few fire logs and stack/sticker and air dry.
  7. Swede is the only one I know for sure that has passed. I would imagine a few others may but several of the guys where younger (30-45 age) so unlikely age caught up with them. Some of the guys would definitely be in that age range where easily could have passed however.
  8. Personally this would be a easy decision. Any of the woods you listed could be used a fine lures can be made. However, one wood has pretty much dominated in respect to knife work many, many years ago.... basswood.
  9. Some still drop in and read over some posts, some are active, others likely have moved on. At one time I think most were much more active in regards to keeping in touch. For several years a few hours every night were spent in chat rooms discussing lure making and about everything else under the sun.
  10. I believe for some lure makers, if they are honest, off the shelf baits are far superior to what they make. One can learn a lot from commercial baits and it should be viewed as a library of proven designs at your fingertips. With that in mine it is easy to see similarities in bait shape and the different lip styles that are typically used. The more baits you have fished, the more baits you have handled, and the more baits you have built the easier it gets to knock out a lip designs to test. I couldn't begin to count the number of cranks I have fished since the late 80's and have
  11. Travis

    O-ring

    Size 214 I believe and easy to source locally or online.
  12. I used to hand pour a lot of baits. I easily beat minimum wage then and now if we use $15/hr rate trying to be passed. As far as someone wanting to make lures to make a few dollars, easy enough to do even after paying Uncle Sam. I never was into trying to do poor man production and compete with Zoom, Berkley, etc... and I was never trying to make it a business.
  13. Sad to hear, I always enjoyed talking and BSing about things with Bear. I had heard things weren't going well but had not hear much for a while. Doesn't seam like it was all that long ago he was setting up his site. I had recently deleted various screen shots from some of the chats where fonts, colors, and layout was been tossed around with the group. Sure seams that some get dealt crappy cards in life.
  14. Scroll saw blades have thin kerf based on the use to cut intricate patterns. With some practice should be able to make two passes and not be too wide. A spiral tooth blade will likely get the closest to the width you are looking for. Something like an Olson SP467 (.051 inch kerf). Can also buy sanding "blades" to clean up the kerf. I don't use my scroll saw very often as don't find it very useful compared to my bandsaws for lure making. Others may know a better blade set up.
  15. Humidity is your enemy. You simply have to store it under dry conditions. Anticaking agents are added as they combat and slow down the rate at which the NaCl and will absorb water, liquify at the surface and recrystallize during the process of aggregation. You can try the old restaurant method used in table top salt shakers and keep the salt sealed in a container with rice. Dump the salt in small cloth bag and tie and keep with your salt. Can also use charcoal (used by some transportation departments to help avoid/reduce salt clumping but messy for our application) or other commerc
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