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Travis last won the day on December 16 2021

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  • Location
    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    Fishing, Aquariums, Photography, Carving, Woodworking, and countless others I can't seem to find time for.

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  1. Milled 2x2 about only time I see it is turning stock at specialty sites or on Ebay/Etsy, either way not very economical. Laminating is cheapest option for the typical hobbyist. I would rather laminate than use the typical home improvement rough 4x4 as a lot of junk wood to sort through to find something to resaw (too much pith) so their goes faster and easier. Online is just too expensive usually compared to local so best bet is source from local lumber supplier. Should have at least #2 and better rough available and typically will offer custom sawing. Price might work out ok depending on how much time you are spending laminating and making blanks. Are you currently just gluing up 3/4 stock.
  2. Easier, faster, better.... of course would to use cedar milled to the proper dimensions. Now I guess you have an abundance of thinner stock to use so lets laminate. Easier about the same but wood glue would be easier as no mixing needing so we gain a few minutes of time. Faster Epoxy hands down as could turn a laminated piece in short order. Heck super glue and an activator is used by many turners to instantly bond waste blocks to in progress turned pieces and strength wise more than sufficient. Better hmm.. what variable is the most important to you? Wood glue is cheaper, faster to apply, but slower to set. Strength doesn't matter as wood will fail prior to any glue/epoxy used. Water proof/resistance doesn't matter either in my book as you have one seriously compromised lure for a glue joint to fail due to moisture intrusion and don't think it is possible under normal fishing conditions to saturate a cedar lure enough to compromise the glue.
  3. Luhr Jensen Deep Secret
  4. Guys select wood for different reasons. Some it may simply be what is available at the local big box store, some may be trying to combat toothy critters and select harder/dense woods, some select wood based on the workability, and others properties of the finished baits. I make bass lures and typically use basswood and some balsa. I like them both for different reasons. The basswood is nice to carve (probably one of the most selected by wood carvers based on properties). Overall it lends itself to a high degree of modification with respect to weight placement to get the actions I want. A more dense wood behaves a little differently. Balsa I like because it makes for a very lively buoyant bait. Around cover they are great due to the deflection properties and quick rise and helps to reduce hang ups. I like to make some smaller balsa sammies for creek smallies. They are some of the "snappiest" versions I have fished and can be cast a mile. Besides lighter 2 part polyurethane foam molded lures haven't found much that is close. If I was making larger lures for muskies, pike, or some inshore species would select something a little more dense. I would also likely be using power tools more often.
  5. If carving by hand then get a hook knife. it makes fairly short work of it if you can comfortably hold the lure. Longer lures easy.. short lures power tools.
  6. There are plenty of cheap airbrushes out there that will work. That doesn't mean you have to go with junk however. Personally I would rather spend money upfront and be done with it. The products below aren't the highest price but are solid performers and one could easily never replace them. Personally I would get an Neo CN gravity feed dual action air brush. Iwata has long had an excellent reputation and isn't going to lend their name to a product without it performing. Should be able to get one for around 60 bucks. You will need a compressor also (if you don't have one). I have used several over the years and started with a Craftsman set up that I use with my nail guns. LOUD but performs flawless. I have used some smaller airbrush specific compressors that are very quiet and use them from time to time still but a California Airtools 1 gallon portable is what I use mainly (120 or less). Quiet, CFM appropriate, and pressure doesn't drop to low when in use (few of the airbrush specific dip considerable into low teens). Pick up a filter/water trap with it. For paints just do yourself a favor and buy airbrush specific paints. Createx pretty easy to use and come by whether it is their general line or wicked series. Have use Badger Spectra also and its ok. Many other paints will do just more problematic and best to avoid starting out (Folk Art and other generic craft paints thinned for example).
  7. Sorry misunderstood your question. I don't build baits split just good to visualize it in that manner. Once on the water I tweak the line tie if needed and apply a small drip of super glue near the tie wait a few seconds and wipe. Typically if an cracks formed the superglue will wick into and solidify on the next cast. I use the same method described above about tuning it straight and usually just drag my knife perpendicular along the lip a few passes, cast and repeat. Just scraping off a little plastic at a time. A small file (Leatherman or similar) also will do just fine.
  8. Best method is from the start... The crank when sliced down the middle should be symmetrical. Now we are hand building so this is rarely the case just strive to do the best you can. If you think about the vertical slice above we want the lip slot cut perpendicular to this, we want to avoid a skewed lip. If you think about the back edge of the lip forming a horizontal line crossing the vertical symmetrical line we should have a "plus" mark formed. I cut all my lip slots in the square blank prior to shaping. All weight, line ties, hook hangers, etc.. should be installed along that vertical symmetry line. If you followed above just need to create lips. Use a drawing program and create 1/2 the lip then copy paste, invert to get the other side. Can use cardstock or cereal box and fold a piece in half then cut your lip and then open and you get a symmetrical lip pattern to trace onto the lip but if once you get a lip pattern in program easy to print templates. I cut out a stack of rectangle stock and tape together with blue painters tape along the edges (leave the protective covering on). And then glue my template or trace and then cut on my bandsaw and then sand to the line. Can cut with tin snips then sand also if you want to do them individually or cut outside the pattern stack and sand, etc... Tuning is typically just a minor tweak if you build correctly, from my experiences. Only time I really need to do major bending, shaving, etc.. is on a new design with an improper lip design.
  9. Yes it will increase buoyancy. Why bother is the question. Why not adjust the resin to get the desired outcome in the first place?
  10. One should be aware of the initial moisture content of the piece of wood to start. If we are putting in the oven a typical air dried or even kiln dried piece of wood that has acclimated we are looking at that 6 to 12% moisture content and will have much better results at 300 F. Trying to dry a piece of green wood at 300 is going to problematic. From a woodworking standpoint much lower temperatures are preferred for this application. Torrification process specs frequently show 20 to 30% decrease in strength. I have always wanted to build and acoustic guitar (don't play but would learn). Watched several videos and read some other information and likely is on my list of things to do. I don't expect it to be great for the first one but really enjoy the process. I do have a box of big leaf maple book matched backs to see if anything is useable as I assume they were seconds from a larger guitar company.
  11. Lack of posts doesn't equate to guys not building.... I still build lures from wood and may use PVC or pour some lures in a mold every now and then. I just skim over a couple of the topics daily to see if anything catches my interest and move on.
  12. Water only helps the reaction proceed faster and anything above the needed amount has no impact on strength. Most materials contain enough water on their surface to start the polymerization reaction and of course we have the ambient humidity. The majority of strength is gained within minutes. Then up to 24 hours is need for full cure. Most wooden baits, depending on the area of the country are going to have moisture content of 6 to 12% (for most 10 to 12% would be safe bet) and more than sufficient for the needed polymerization reaction. Where most encounter issues is they use too much superglue. Only need a thin coating on the surface. Wetting the surface will make the reaction go faster initially but too much water and you negatively impact the bonding ability of the superglue to the intended substrate. Plenty of information on cyanoacrylate glue and performance out there. Superglue is fine for hook ties, thru wire, undercoat on balsa cranks etc....
  13. Short arm spinnerbaits never left.... some anglers just have blinders on and only focus on whatever is new and shiny. Stan Sloan Short Arm Aggravators have been a staple in my spinnerbait arsenal for as long as I can remember and still readily available.
  14. Typically forums use a badge function as a social ranking system. Points are awarded for posts, likes, posted pictures, essentially participation. Points are accumulated towards receiving badges/ranks. At some forums the user gains extra perks such as increased photo rights, longer edit times for posts, adding a signature below your post, additional emoticons, GIF use age, etc. as rankings increase. Just a way known to increase participation. It also feeds off a segment of the members as a way to show how "established" and "knowledgeable" they are as they will work towards reaching titles as for some it validates some need or goal they want to reach. At one time new members on forums would also see this as a seasoned individual giving information and could likely find the information shared to be overall true.
  15. After 17 years of using Createx and various other paints never have used a hair dryer as part of the routine. About the only time I have found a hair dryer useful is painting a single lure, in a hurry, and wanting to use tulle for scale detail.
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