Jump to content


TU Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Travis

  1. I argue that this holds true for many the make plastics to sell. Especially if one in honest about costs and time spent doing it.
  2. Many years ago I read and article regarding. I don't recall if was one specifically about Berkley powerbait and their lab testing facilities or a Bassmaster's article about fishing craws. The thing I recall from the article was that when Berkley was working on power craw design they found that plain tubes or the craw body with the pinchers removed elicited the most strikes. Of course during that time no company would market or sell something like that to the average bass guy. How things have changed.
  3. I don't own the mold but wouldn't be worried about getting it. At this point and time in lure mold making so many people have gotten into the game that much of the issues with injection molds have really reduced to the point they are nearly fool proof. As far as knock off designs, most have fished the real deal so not much risk in my opinion. Their knock off appears very true to form so wouldn't suspect it do be dramatically different in function to the Zoom brush hog.
  4. 1. You should know your costs, time, etc... if you don't know that you aren't ready to turn it into a business. I have no idea how serious you are about a "business". There are guys here that truthfully lose money on businesses when everything is accurately accounted for. 2. Don't use their names or descriptions and most molds you buy are good to go. I personally wouldn't worry too much about this. Now if you are going to sell knock offs and call it the same or a play on the name you may raise some eyes. Personally I wouldn't be too worried about companies searching this site. I think some overplay this concept/idea as I think in some way they think it legitimizes them. At one time I think more people were more concerned about a few on this site reporting you to the IRS (Form3949-A). 3. No need for an accountant unless you are truly a big business. I would search the forum as lots of advice and guidance to at least get you started. You will get all sorts of advice but your local IRS Taxpayer assistance center may be the best bet. If you feel better consulting a CPA what you spend on services needs to be routed into answer number 1.
  5. Several ways to do it. Just really boils down the the skill set of the individual doing the work. A dremel with a cut off wheel is used by some, a dovetail saw, back saw, myriad of Japanese style saws, coping saw, etc.. all can be used relatively easily. Since you mentioned bandsaw and are comfortable using it stick with it. Even the cheapest saws can be set up to cut perpendicular to the table. A properly tensioned sharp blade riding properly on the crown of the wheels with blade guides set properly cuts straight. Some bandsaws may need a little tweaking but nothing too difficult to do. Wayne is correct you will need a jig. Easy enough as you just mold your current mold. On a bandsaw once you have molded one of the original mold halves you can use it to cradle the bait so you can easily position to cut the lip slot properly and will allow proper bait registration and repeatable results. Table saw, radial arm saw, router, etc.. all can be set up to safely perform the task if one so desires.
  6. I have looked at few different ones over the years but still have several hundred slider worms. Still throw a lot of them and still use a lot of slider heads when targeting creek and river smallies. Really hard to beat. This one is intriguing. https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/worms/mold-w664-4-inch-102-mm/#:~:text=STOP SLIDESHOW-,Mold W664 4″ inch,-/ 102 mm Flat sided and a little more thicker around the egg sack.
  7. I haven't watched any of his video or messed with doing any force calculations.... A lure isn't static and I have a huge shock absorber rod and arms that makes most calculated forces impossible to achieve in the real world. Even without that I typically use monofilament line with a break strength that sort of prohibits from me possibly reaching failure limits of glues, line ties, wood strength, etc.. I guess to sum it up in 30 plus years of fishing never had lure fail in this manner (bass fishing only). I have had lip ties pull out and lips snap off but never a wood body to fail but specialize in small fish. I don't think the previous lip slot would have caused problems honestly especially based on the wood grain but then again often don't know till you hit the water. If you take a look at some of the hybrid swim/cranks you will see the front hook hanger ends up very close to the lip. I haven't fished many of them so not for sure if a major concern or not. Mike Bucca Bull Rat Swimbait and Bull shad for example. Typically as long as the hook hangs sufficiently below the lip not much issue.
  8. Why the angled line tie? Personally I would ditch the upward line tie location. First most joint points, will end up being top and bottom of the segment so just makes thing easier with the line tie straight. I also predrill with things square so really easy to get a vertical line tie and horizontal hook hangers. I also try putting as much wood above and below the line tie as possible for strength. Probably not an issue as we get caught up in design principles with no regard to real world applications.
  9. I enjoy my 3D printer. Frustrating at times yes but that is my lack of knowledge and not spending time. I would never use it as even a low production method to make lures but I have a shop and space to make lures traditionally and more importantly enjoy the making process. Then again some spend all week printing the dumbest items to stick on a shelf (I have rhino, octopus, robots, lizards, frogs, etc.. from trying to get familiar with the unit). For designing lures can be a very important tool in the right hands. What I am doing and what I see most guys doing is really just scratching the surface and not pushing anything new or truly pushing towards anything novel... just making a "shell" of lure. A custom/handmade lure maker can make a living and good profit (now we have to be acknowledge this is a vastly different meaning to many). There are several here in the states that have making bass cranks. How long will it be a source of income is the real unknown as many sort of fade away and many have another job or spouse that is the main source of revenue and the lure making more of a a side hustle. The brutal truth: Most can make a lure. Most don't have the experience or knowledge to know if the lure is any good. Just because you catch fish on you home body of water doesn't equate to it being a good lure. One has to be honest with themselves about their product (difficult to do). Even if you have a good lure if you can't market it or put the bait in the correct anglers hands you have nothing. Hot baits often don't weather the storm. Most aren't going to spend the money and effort to put themselves in a position to try and be successful. The "lathe duplicator" style set up using a blade, router, or carbide cutting insert is very doable for those that enjoy tinkering. With a little knowledge, determination, and effort you can come up with a machine to cut blanks out. I can't find them know but had video links to several different lure making machines that worked in theory similar to the Rapala set up just used a single blank feed and production lower but still fast. Some on this site have systems that are a step above the typical hobby set ups and can mass produce baits. You will not see a video with any detail on them as would be too easy for someone to knock it off and offer cheap blanks for resale. This is a very niche market and competition is fierce.
  10. Old thread but as mentioned still good and an area many don't spend much thought on. I have been running a cheap vacuum set up from locally sourced stuff for I think 6 years now to test (at the time less than 100 bucks total). I use it mainly for sanding or attached to my router table. It in no way is a replacement for a high end system. I also use a larger shop vac/cyclone system in the shop and do wear an Elipse P100 mask as needed (comfortable, not hot, and easy to wear a face shield if needed. Generic Set Up: Two five gallon buckets, Bucket Head Vacuum power head (Home Depot), and a Dust deputy cyclone attached to a Gamma seal lid. Overall the unit pulls lower CFM than ideal but the results have been stellar. Latex tubing was split and ran along the rim of the bucket to help with the seal for the Bucket Head Vacuum Power Head. I did 3D print some hose attachments to remove some obstruction since already limited with regards to CFM. I can't recall how many times I have emptied the lower bucket (dozens of times) during that time period and am still using the same cloth filter. I forget to check it at times and the lower bucket gets too full and will effect performance. I try not and clean the cloth filter in the upper vacuum bucket and allow it to get "primed" as it will capture fines much better that way. The upper 5 gallon bucket after all the use, never have emptied or cleaned it.
  11. 3D printing is great for design. Making lures frankly well just too slow and time consuming to be anything more than having fun playing with regards to making lures. Last small bluegill swimbait I drew up took like 6 hours to print. I will mold it eventually and cast. I have a few other lures I down loaded and some pushed 8 hours to print. Glue up, surface finishing will take even more time. As far as duplicator lathes have been around for ever and relatively easy to outfit most lathes and many can easily knock out a few lures with the typical set up available to hobbyists. Every now and then you will come across a clip of crankbait machines that have blank spindle stock feed continuously that are designed for true lure production. I have come across several videos and they typically work similar. Automating processes for the sake of making blanks, for most hobbyists is purely because they love the technology and to tinker.
  12. I can think of a few reasons. 1. Many don't have much experience with them. I have several older Nicholson, half dozen Iwasaki, and a few riffler (budget) sets but enjoy woodworking. 2. Power tools are used in their place. An oscillating spindle/belt sander combo makes quick work for many or dremels. I turned a spindle with proper cove dimensions on my lathe for several balsa cranks I was making and then glued sandpaper. Could go from rough out to finished blank very fast that way with balsa. 3. For most bass cranks or topwater baits the size makes them sort of less ideal but still doable. 4. Youtube... so many build a bait however "Guru X" makes a bait.
  13. Cut lip slot, drill all holes with the blank square. How I basically approach it,
  14. Liquid glass is a brand of epoxy. They may 2:1 and 1:1 component products.
  15. Bottom line you have to keep it under dry conditions. Displace head space with bloxegen for example, tap the can method, open and transfer in low humidity environments, storing unused portion in dry condition, etc... https://www.kbs-coatings.com/kbs-paint-saver.html I haven't used in KBS in some time but when I did I have the ability to open and transfer contents in very dry conditions at work. While not feasible for guys at home you can still work in a small room (laundry room) and run a dehumidifier and probably get down to 15% RH or so.
  16. I didn't say your company was failing... I said I would want to see books on any business as most you don't want to take on a failing company especially something as fickle as lure making. Business definition varies considerably on this site depending on the guy/gal. Guys selling 500 bucks a month calling it a business and then guys pushing legit volume and money and walking away from real jobs with benefits. Just my experiences with regards to molds, inventory, and small bait companies on KY/Barkley lake area.. over the years. Most of my experience was when there was a lot less competition in the early 1990's to 2000 can only assume it has gotten worse. Maybe someone else will chime in there have been several on here with lure companies or businesses or contact you privately.
  17. Travis

    molds to oz

    The good news an open pour swimbait mold is about as easy as they get and can be done quickly and cheaply.
  18. I honestly think you will be hard pressed to find someone willing to buy all. 1. The name? I don't fish near what I used to but don't think it is a selling point. Outside of this forum never heard of the company. Not many are going to be and won't add anything to the sell. Mom and pop bait companies come and go. 2. Molds? Are only worth something if they a good. If you have a bunch of strange things that won't sell the are nothing but scrap. 3. Inventory... see molds.. but typically have to give it away. Been to too many tackle shows were some guy thought he would start a lure business and is selling things for a huge loss and still can't move product. 4. Injection machinery is the only value along with maybe unused supplies. All will have to be priced right in order to move. Local guy/gal your best bet and you should have very detailed business related records. Are there agreements in place with tackle stores, will those transfer and continue? Bottom line I would want to see your revenue stream and know if it is something of value. Absolutely nothing to gain to take a failing lure company and try and make it successful. Usually the damage is done at that point.
  19. I doubt you are alone in your thoughts. Breaking down sheet goods isn't an issue and even smaller rectangular blanks using a cross cut sled would be very straight forward process that anyone with average table saw skills wouldn't blink an eye at doing. Anything past that and I wouldn't advise anyone to attempt to cut out something like a crank bait lip on a table saw without some very specific set ups involving sleds, hold downs, etc.. Frankly posts like that make me cringe as skill sets vary considerable. There are several that will come across this post and not really put much thought into it. They have a table saw and read you can cup lips for lures on a lure making site so off they go with to cut out small rounded lips for their cranks. For many not real familiar with a table saw they can get into trouble very quickly. I don't like things to be overly moderated and find most "safety" things way over the top but honestly a post that should have been removed without some very specific details on how to proceed safely.
  20. Travis


    I guess I didn't take it as all that serious. Didn't impact the performance of the site or make it difficult to find new topics. The site isn't exactly a hot bed of activity.
  21. Travis


    I always preferred polyurethane foams over resins and micro balloons. Typically 16 lb density but did do quite a few baits with lower density material.
  22. Looking pretty good. I haven't printed any additional lures but been designing odds and ends. Sure gets easier the more you mess with the software but still find myself watching a videos too often.
  23. Not sure who makes them but I think you are failing to appreciate the shear volume of product Wal Mart and similar stores move. Not many companies that aren't going to cut a deal to get that contract as simply they will never see those sells through mom and pop stores. Even large companies will meet the price to get into the stores (becoming less important however).
  24. Never really had issues with lego method either... except for different application. You can take an aluminum mold for soft plastic bait and build your lego wall around the mold and leave around 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap. Heat hot plastic and pour over to make a soft plastic mold of the aluminum mold. You can then pour plaster of paris or Durhams into the soft plastic mold and make a copy of the aluminum mold. I have had hot plastic leak through the lego mold box twice over the years.
  • Create New...