Travis

They don't really care. You need to think of it more like a raffle ticket or dropping a business card into a bowl at a restaurant. Really no intention of winning but nothing really to lose.

You can sharpen then but edge retention an issue based on the physical factors of the materials. I have several marking knives I made for use in the shop with surgical steel scalpel blades sharp as can be but edges don't hold long and as far as carving...better ways to waste one's time. It is utility knife... live with it shortcomings. For those that are into sharpening Ron Hock probably has one of the best sharpening books out there that covers about all one might want to know. Likely can find a PDF to download. https://www.hocktools.com/products/perfectedge.html

If you are going to spend time trying to sharpen a utility blade.... just buy the intended product and buy a decent knife.

They are cheap disposable products manufactures are using a low quality steel. Buy the cheapest sharp blades you can find, craftsman sold a 100 count for around 12 bucks at one time. I don't think there is much difference is sharpness to be honest with the blades but probably only use a few a year. The Lenox Gold are considered one of the best but $$$ compared to the Dewalt and others. Utility knives are a jack of all trades master of none in my shop.

You just have to accept your decision of using a utility knife. Just use the sharpest blade you can find and chuck as needed.

Typically two is all I need for basswood lures. The lures are sanded to 120 -180 typically then dipped once. As you know the IPA flashes quickly and I then I knock down any raised area with the same and dip final time. Just easy to use product and no compatibility issues. Also does well to block out contaminants that cause fish eye in finishes. Woodworkers have long used it to block pine resin from showing in finishes or painted products.

Shellac 2lb cut.

Basswood 99% of the time then balsa and paulowina.

I was getting near vertical presentations with the Model A's and the risto raps were better due to the lip geometry. Weighting also caused a very slow rise allowing me to also get down to the two to three feet and then disengage the reel and allow the current to wash the crank back into undercut clay banks. Wiggle warts wide wobble and ended up hung up more catching little branches. Didn't use them much in smaller waters but always one of my favorites in early spring on the larger lakes in the area. Yes the same David Fritts... just need to rewind 30 years.

Excellent question. Many will make or modify baits to do different things. Anglers have always modified baits to make them do specific tasks. Frits (Bassmaster articles) probably did the the most to bring this "new" concept mainstream to the general bass fishing public with the Poe's cranks article. Most general anglers would never make use of those baits especially during that time. Still guys (even with all the technology) never have really cranked deep water and certainly not in a manner targeting deep water structure. Some of the first cranks I made were for fishing a local small river during college. The river was very shallow (more of creek) and initially I was modifying store bought baits. I wanted small cranks and wanted the bait nearly vertical do just plow through the gravel. Nothing was really available so I was picking up Risto Raps and Bomber Model A's and slapping lead strips on the lips and switching to smaller rear trebles to get them to do what I needed. They rarely got hung up and the bills were strong enough they didn't snap. Suspending jerk baits were the other thing I did a lot of, especially during winter on main lake points and modified a lot of traps to fish a small lake that rattles seamed to send fish fleeing. I don't think in the bass fishing scene anyone is making a lure that is frankly unique or novel. Guys like to claim unique motions all the time and historically the fishing industry always is coming up with "new" things (funny how they don't stick around). To be honest for many guys it is unique to them based on their experiences or where they fish.

Definitely can find a lot of important information with the search feature. Additionally it doesn't take long to come up with a few names that if serious about lure making one will just skim through their replies.

Agree... I wouldn't use the cup turner either or a disco ball turner but cost appears to be limiting factor on his threads. Personally I would just get a rotisserie motor, my time is the most costly aspect of lure making and driving around looking for a bargain costs too much. Devcon and E tex are commonly available and some stores are starting to carry Art Resin so figured those are the more likely scenarios as no shipping. Of course other options out there but they cost more.

The one my wife bought could be modified. It was similar to the one below. She bought it so I didn't have to let her use my lure turner. Problem is normally they are same price or slightly cheaper than a rotisserie motor.

Yes you can "turn" by hand. It has popped up a lot over the years on the site about methods and might be worth searching. Just make sure to get as even as a coat as you can and brush excess towards the back hook hanger and brush it off into the waste. Then hang the lure from the line tie for given amount of time. Then hang by the rear hook hanger for a while, etc.. A 100 watt incandescent light bulb or blow dryer can be used to pop bubbles initially and make the epoxy a little more runny if it isn't smoothing out easily. If you have a craft store near buy might want to check it out they often sell simple turners for epoxying tumblers and might find a bargain. My wife paid 7 bucks for one earlier this year and it worked fine on the few cups she did and would easily do a lure or two. Microwave motor works well too and might find deals at a yard sale as things are warming up.

We can open the flood gates and talk about price per bait, storage, hardness, flexibility, ease of use, clarity, etc.. and talk about every top coat out there. Bottom line Devcon will work just fine, no worries. I have used Devcon a lot just because easy to source, consistent in application/results, durable, very clear and amazing depth to lures, and easily available locally at multiple places. The only time I put much thought about weight with Devcon use is neutral buoyancy lures but then you just adjust the weight and right down water temp on the bills so you can pick and choose as needed.

At some point you are going to need to make mold.

You are doing two things. Creating a little more drag on the "lip" and then directing the water over the back of the lure and not over the sides as much. Creating more stability and the lure stays in a tighter path. Think of tunnel hull design boats and kayaks... more stable and track straighter. Lipless baits already have very little side to side action so doens't take much to reduce it further. I fish a lot of 3/4 oz. traps after ice out and slow roll them just barely keeping them running.

It honestly isn't too hard to use just comes down to the user. Based on some of your questions and likely experience it is an easy product to start off with with no real money invested. Over the years things some find easy and common sense are impossible for others to ever do. Just way it is. Legos, molding clay, Vaseline, some worm weights, bb's, and few commonly found tools (popsickle stick, skewer, tooth picks, etc..) and plaster of paris and you are ready to make molds. Then you need to decide on what product you want to pour your baits with. I used US Composites 16 lb 2 part polyurethane foams and poured with a weight harness inside the bait.

You need to make some pop molds first and make some basic cranks. Screw up and figure it out before moving on.

RTV silicone only real way to go. It will wear in time depending on the severity of the undercuts. https://www.smooth-on.com/products/mold-max-30/ A 2.2 lb kit isn't too bad 34 bucks before shipping/taxes and will make several molds with no issues. Doesn't have to be smooth on but hard to beat on price and known well performing product with customer support. I don't see scales being an issue to be honest. Typically ends up being fins and gills and potential eye socket if not done correctly.

Plaster of paris is dirt cheap. As I mentioned just design the lure properly. If you screw up no big deal.. a careful blow with a hammer and screw driver and you can get the master back. That said just make sure none of the detail has undercuts and not many issues. Just have to visualize the removal of the bait from the mold.. if the tail curls no go, if a gill is undercut no go, etc.... You can also use Bondo body filler and can demold a little earlier and you get some play as it will flex when warm. Can heat in an oven also. Once again just easier to design the master properly. When it comes down to it all the detail stuff isn't needed but where is the fun in that. I used two part urethane to cast most of my lures when messing with it on a consistent basis. Cheap enough. RTV silicone is better way to go and Smooth on Mold Max 30 is what I routinely use. The lure below would easily cast in plaster of paris. The eye socket has no undercuts and the simple detail around the eye is smooth and round. The molded in lip slot would cause issues and eventually break in plaster of paris. Now if you get too much detail will have to go RTV. The trout below has several issues (wasn't going to mold it) just goofing around carving. The undercut on some of gill rackers on the underside would lock the bait in a POP mold and of course the mouth.

If the bait is designed properly you can mold it from plaster of paris. I have made 100's of these molds over the years, mainly for soft plastics but many for crankbaits and top waters. I am sure you will be able to mold the bait yourself with a little instruction.

It was posted a few days ago under the TU Info and Site update....

Plenty of knives will work. I wouldn't get too caught up on brand to be honest and concentrate more on a price range as far as quality. Sharpening is just something you will pick up in no time. A good knife edge retention is really good and a loaded strop about all that is needed. As a kid I carved a lot of odds and ends with a simple Old Timer Minute Man knife. In college carved a few things with it, various utility knives, and scalpels from my dissecting kit. None compared to carving knives once I got a few. I have had Ramelson, Mora, and several no names. Just ended up with Flex cuts based on comfort and price (at the time). My next purchase with be some Hock blades and make my own handles. I have really been pleased with the Hock Irons on some of the hand planes I made years ago with regards to quality, edge retention, and sharpening. https://www.hocktools.com/products/knives.html The Perfect Edge is a very solid book that is filled with information if you are more into understanding forging, sharpening, etc.. I keep a list of these type items for anytime someone is asking about possible gifts to buy me. https://www.hocktools.com/perfectedge.html

For many simple designs making your own molds is as cheap as it is going to get. I have made 100's of molds over the years and easily can say if one takes their time they will get get solid baits. I have made plenty with finishes as good or better as something from some larger named companies. Two piece molds aren't much harder to do and more complex styles can result.