Jump to content

jigmeister

TU Member
  • Content Count

    238
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

jigmeister last won the day on March 12

jigmeister had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

58 Excellent

About jigmeister

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/01/1975

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Looks like some expensive precision equipment is required for making these thin .015 silicone strips . The heat curing is part of the process and then additional machinery would be needed for cutting and to slice the strands.
  2. I recently received an email response to a question I submitted to the largest silicone skirt tab supplier in the US (and possibly the world ) inquiring about popular skirt tab colors that are no longer available today . The gist of it was that their production is overburdened and being unable to keep up with demand they scaled down the colors produced to about 300 used by their biggest customers . My original thought was to try to arrange a group purchase to meet a minimum lot size of tabs but even this was not an option . It seems like a golden opportunity for someone to start up a sk
  3. The first "Hard Head type worms were made by Bagley's in the 70's . Mann's came out with their hard head series years later . I believe both of these designs simply used a tougher plastic formulations for the head (such as saltwater plastic) and softer plastic for the body and tail . One type of plastic that is impervious to melting when exposed to plastic baits is plastic cable and wire ties (zip ties) if that will work for your project . Nylon tubing also
  4. I bought a similar plastic made by Calhouns years ago . It looked like the stuff in the picture above . Soft spongy crystals . You have to heat it in a pan on a stove or hot plate , no re-melting left overs , Have to use powdered pigments no liquid plastic color , prone to stretchy strings coming off pan when stopping pour after cavity full . Oh and the stuff I bought was very expensive . People complained about all of the same experiences but I had to see for myself I guess . Maybe this new stuff will be better?
  5. Yes that would work . Admittedly I haven't got around to trying this yet but I was thinking about hitting the copper pipe occasionally with a propane torch or keeping a heat gun on low pointed at the pipe to keep the temp up while dipping .
  6. I was thinking of using a piece of 1 1/2" + copper pipe with a cap soldered on the end . You could mount the pipe upright and fill it half way with hot plastic and dip the rod in to get the desired length with the dipping rod displacing the hot plastic higher up in the pipe .
  7. You can buy a 1 pound roll of Tin plumbers solder and mix with lead to make it harder . I have mixed it with pure soft lead for hardening bullets I was molding . Seems to me I was using 9: 1 lead to tin solder ratio. You can mix it to any hardness you want with a little experimentation .
  8. The fan shaft diameter is shown as .187 on a Dayton drawing for your gearmotor (which works out to 3/16" ) and the fan dia. was shown as 2.63" (so 2.5" is probably the closest size available )
  9. Sorry about the misunderstanding on my part . Speaking of parts though I did find Dayton part # for just the fan for your motor Dayton # 46-6-3 Grainger should be able to get this part being a Dayton distributor Grainger also sells a Dayton 4 blade 2.5" plastic fan # 5JKL5 that could be a match for your motor
  10. OK looked at the label on the soft plastic paint bottle above and noticed their web address for the product Softbait Paint Clear GlossCoat (brightbaits.com) Looks like they're based in Belgium or Europe . Since this paint is highly flammable no air shipment to US so must come by boat . Spraying silver mica powder mixed with acetone through a stencil with fine netting would give the bait a fish scale pattern and after drying shooting a topcoat with this clear soft plastic paint would seal in the mica and give it a deeper look .
  11. I searched Ebay with the Dayton 1LNG1 model number and several came up there also
  12. follow link DAYTON AC Gearmotor 115 Nameplate RPM 52 RPM Max. Torque 25.0 in-lb Enclosure Open - 1LNG1|1LNG1 - Grainger I just added this to cart so it appears to be in stock
  13. I don't know that the ratio is critical as long as it will spray but a little mica goes a long way . I just mixed up the mica with enough acetone to fill the airbrush paint cup and sprayed it on the baits . With the airbrush you can just keep applying multiple coats to get the desired effect from a gentle dusting of color to a heavy stripe . I am definitely no air brush painting master but it was pretty easy . I bought a low cost Testers brand air brush set to try this out and it worked
  14. How big of a motor is this ( 1/10 horsepower for example ) and is it an AC , DC , or Universal motor ? Is there a nameplate on the motor you're replacing? If you can't specifically find a Dayton you could use a different brand with the correct rating and physical size . Can you post a picture of the motor and nameplate
  15. You can mix mica powders with acetone and spray it on with an air brush . After the acetone quickly evaporates you can then dip bait in hot clear plastisol (ala Basstrix lures )or shoot on a clear top coat that bonds to the plastisol . I experimented with some clear paint I found that comes in spray can ( SEM "Color Coat") for dying vinyl auto apholstry and it worked but not as good as the pictured baits .
×
×
  • Create New...
Top