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Everything posted by BobP

  1. I have no idea what “liquid glass” is. Epoxy is fairly resistant to chemical reactions with underlying coatings. You didn’t specify what brand/type of epoxy you used. The pic looks like it might have been a fast cure variety. If it is, that’s your problem. If it’s slow cure variety, which takes at least 30 minutes to harden (the correct type to use) then you need to consider your epoxy mixing and application techniques. Why do you apply acrylic varnish between the color and the epoxy? I can’t think why it’s needed. Without looking at your process while you do it, its hard to evaluate where the problem is. I try to keep it simple. Measure it well, mix it very well. Apply with a soft brush, rotate it without heat until hard.
  2. I believe the problem is the acetone contained in your paint. If your paint contained lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, or (probably best) water as a thinning agent, I think epoxy would not be a problem.
  3. BobP

    Garco Mcu

    Yes! Thanks for the assist.
  4. BobP

    Garco Mcu

    The DN referred to is Dick Nite Fishermun’s Lurecoat, type S81. In the decade since the post, another MCU option has also become popular, a MCU sold by automotive online stores (can’t remember the product name -a little help please!)
  5. wood choices: most builders experiment to settle on the wood they want to use on their crankbaits. With experience, you realize producing a crankbait that performs well requires limiting the variables that can otherwise screw things up. One important variable is wood density and the workability of different wood species. It doesn’t matter which wood you decide is right for you. What matters is gaining experience using it. How to shape it, how to ballast it, how to finish it. Eventually you need to settle on a limited number of wood species because if you don’t, your baits will tend to disappoint you. At least that’s been my experience building baits for 20+ years.
  6. I catch redfish in the surf using a standard Carolina rig and finger mullet. Seems to work ok. There are all kinds of rigs I see used in salt water. Most of them work if you are fishing with “live” bait. Some of them work well with soft plastics, depending on what the targeted species is.
  7. I use a scroll saw. It’s much slower than a band saw but cuts shapes more finely. I use standard 12 tpi blades. If you’re cutting hard wood, it can be REALLY slow. If you’re cutting balsa, it’s plenty quick. I haven’t found any problem regarding the width of wood but if you plan to build large musky baits or glide baits, especially out of a hard wood, a band saw is really the choice.
  8. I only use denatured alcohol. Maybe isopropyl might work BUT I think most of it is sold cut with at least 30% water. I definitely would not use acetone. Tried that and the result was not good. I say bite the bullet and buy a can of denatured at the home center. It will last a long time and you can use it to clean epoxy off your brush too.
  9. When you mix epoxy you start a chemical reaction at the molecular level. If the epoxy is measured accurately and mixed very thoroughly, you get a good finish that’s tough and resistant to yellowing. So I measure with syringes and mix the hell out of it, disregarding any air bubbles introduced. After mixing, I stir in a FEW drops of denatured alcohol and that expels bubbles. I paint it on the lure with a nylon bristled artist brush. Its fine bristles get it on the lure without generating any new bubbles and tend to pop any stray ones that remain. Clean the brush with solvent and it lasts indefinitely.
  10. I think any slow cure epoxy is fine. D2T, Flexcoat, Envirotex Lite, etc all work. Epoxy’s advantage? It’s tough and thicker than most other options so resists impact and hook rash better than most. The only thing maybe better is a good UV resin, which is also thick and even tougher;than epoxy.
  11. BobP

    Clear coat

    Hmm, ease of use and durable smooth finish? My vote goes to KBS Diamond Coat. Dip the lure, hang it up to dry/cure. Voila, you’re done. Whatever clear you choose has peculiarities of application. You just have to dive in and see for yourself what you like best.
  12. BobP

    Flex coat

    Flexcoat works just fine. But it’s more expensive than many other epoxies because it’s custom formulated for rod threads. Just about any SLOW cure epoxy works well. Just dont try to use fast cure epoxies. They don’t level out well and they yellow quickly.
  13. I just use whatever clearcoat product I will use as a final clearcoat to also seal the wood before painting That’s either epoxy, UV resin, or moisture cured urethane. Never have to worry about chemical incompatibilities that way AND the clearcoat is tougher and more waterproof than most of the products you might otherwise choose as a sealer.
  14. Just to answer Deadly Duck’s original post, good baits are symmetrical and have their hardware exactly on the center line of the body. This suggests you mark a center line all around the bait after the blank is first cut out but BEFORE you start shaping and rounding it. Weight placement is variable but in my experience, many commercial custom baits use a one piece belly hanger/ballast weight. Lurepartsonline sells them. Of course, you can weight your bait wherever and however you want and build your hook hangers and line tie however too. But generally I like mine at the hanger with any additional ballast placed in front of the hanger.
  15. There are various UV resin suppliers. If you want clear “doming resin” you can use Alumi-UV or go with Asian suppliers of jewelry UV resins that you can find on Amazon. The Asian stuff is cheaper but seems (to me) to take longer to cure, maybe as long as 30 minutes. It depends on the specific UV wave length the resin is designed for. I use Asian resin and cure it in a UV fingernail cure box (also from Amazon). If it feels a little tacky after box curing, I set it outside on a lure turner in the sun. Sunlight contains all UV wave lengths, so it works surprisingly well. I don’t see the need for lots of equipment or special lights if you are doing baits in small batches as a hobby. If you want large scale production, that’s different.
  16. Yes, Two Ton works and is plenty strong. But I prefer an epoxy PASTE that is easier and less messy to use but gives the same strength. Rod Bond epoxy (the regular slow cure version) lets me fiddle with lip alignment for an hour or more. I fill the slot with it, push in the lip, and wipe off the epoxy pushed out the rear sides of the slot. No drips, no mess.
  17. Epoxy works just fine. UV resin also works well. Neither outgasses much and they don’t contain much if any solvents.
  18. I use soft temper stainless wire from McMaster-Carr online in size .041. Easy to form, good size fit for most bass baits, plenty strong.
  19. I often take off the crankbait’s split ring and use a Norman Speed Clip instead, which is basically a split ring with little arms that you press to open the ring and clip it on-off the bait. Most other clips seem iffy to me. You need a split ring or clip for a crankbait to work properly. That’s why manufacturers sell baits with them installed.
  20. Yes, from Asian manufacturers where you can either buy existing designs in bulk or work with a company to have your own design produced. You might contact some of the sellers to get more info.
  21. I choose wood based on its density, which determines what kind of action the finished bait will have. Three kiln dried species for me. Balsa for lively shallow running baits. Paulownia for slightly more dense and durable baits but still lively action. And basswood for dense, easily shaped and sanded deep divers. Is it critical to use these specific woods? Nope. There are other choices. You need to experiment and then settle on a specific set of materials to become competent with them and produce baits of consistent quality. I say “material”, not wood because there are other choices like PVC trim board and various casting plastics that are also popular choices.
  22. Chris, you’re right that a line tie in the nose of a wood bait can be a weak point, especially in soft balsa. If you break the finish in the bait while tuning it will be a goner quickly. Rather than use a steel screw eye, many builders use hand twisted screw eyes made from soft temper stainless steel or brass, either of which is easy to bend to tune a bait. I use .041” soft temper stainless from McMaster-Carr online in standard sized bass baits. It’s easy to twist accurately and plenty tough enough to last well, and won’t break finish while tuning the bait.
  23. BobP

    Wire size(s)

    Musky bait builders often use .051” ss wire. But if your baits are “bass sized”, not larger than 3-4 inches, .041” SOFT temper ss wire works great, and it’s much easier to form accurately with hand tools. I use it for all the line ties and hook hangers on bass baits and it has never failed in 20 years. I get Malin wire from McMaster-Carr online.
  24. George, I tested water based polyurethane as a clear coat a few years ago. It failed miserably so I’d be leery of using it in any crankbait application. It will definitely reabsorb water after drying (assuming you can actually get it to dry without a kiln) It will also cause wood to swell, unlike most oil based products. So, if it can reabsorb water and cause a bait to swell up, what utility does it have?
  25. BobP

    Uv curing

    I use a UV nail polish light from Amazon. Wave length? No idea. Time to cure? From a few seconds to half an hour depending on the specific resin you are using. If the resin doesn’t want to cure completely, I stick it outside in the sun on a lure turner for half an hour and that, so far, has always done the trick. Sunlight contains ALL the UV wave lengths and hits the Earth all day long, clear sky or cloudy. Maybe not the best scheme for a commercial builder, but it works OK for a hobby builder like me.
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