cadman

That looks good. Yes it is tedious and cumbersome, however it does work. Luckily you don't have to make 500 of them. LOL

If the beads have holes, put some thread through the holes and tie it suspended on the hook shank if you can. This is not the most effective way to do this, but for a couple of dozen jigs it shouldn't be too bad. You can also use very thin wire like from a small transformer. If the beads do not have holes, you can suspend them with a little clay wrapped around the hook shank.

Oh I see, I thought you wanted to flatten the sides. What I have done in the past to lessen the weight, is put in hollow metal beads, or small, pieces on aluminum rod in the mold cavity. This will take up space in your cavity and will not melt when you pour your lead. The bigger the piece you put in the more space you will take up. It might be worth a try I have not seen a 7/16 oz football mold either.

If you are doing a flat face on both sides, you can put the jig in a vice and slowly close the vice. It is crude but it does work. Hopefully, you don't have a lot of them to do as this is time consuming.

Jig Man, I don't know exactly but my guess would be one of these three: Eagle Claw Style 500BP-Lil Nasty Mustad 32500 BN Jig Hook Victory 11149 BN Jig Hook I don't have any of the Jewel Pee Wee Jigs on hand to check to see which hook it is. It may also be a custom made hook made exclusively for them as well.

Unfortunately I agree. I have been a die hard LPO purchaser since the Stamina days. They have always had a large variety of products along with really good prices. However, I have noticed that many of their products I used to get, are no longer available, and their pricing has gone up substantially, along with their shipping. I have seen this happen in the last 3 or 4 years prior to Covid. It seems things have changed since they were bought out or merged with a couple of other companies. Sadly, I do not buy as many items from them as I used to. There are many other places to buy product. I am not overpaying for shipping or paying any extra handling fees.

For spinnerbait spacers between blades and up and down the blade arm, you can use metal hollow beads, plastic beads or cylindrical metal spacers. See link below https://barlowstackle.com/search-results/?q=metal+spacers I use Devcon 2 Ton epoxy for all my weedguards. It takes a little longer to dry, but I've never had one come out. I roll the loose end of the weedguard strands into the epoxy and then stick the weedguard into the jig head hole with the epoxy and when the weedguards are cured, I cut the fused end off at the top. There are many ways to glue in weedguards. I just prefer epoxy.

I have that textured skirt color and I bought it from fishingskirts.com

Well I'm not as perfect as you. Like I said, you apparently read it correctly and after all of your comments you still didn't reply to the OP's original thread. That's real helpful as well. If you are going to criticize, why don't you give us your input.

Sorry misread the original thread. I put it on the hook side.

Well if you read the topic correctly why didn't you reply? It's easy to criticize and then make an empty post.

I've built spinnerbaits both ways for my customer. I believe it is personal preference. I don't use reflective tape, but I would put the reflective tape on the convex side. In your case you want to put it on the inside of the convex side. The inside of all my blades are polished smooth to reflect either the brass or chrome finish to give off flash. You also have to figure that fish don't always follow a spinnerbait. They may see it from the front or from the side and then hit the blade. The only time I would believe that fish see the blade is when the spinnerbait drops on the cast and or if you slow roll the spinnerbait along the bottom. I personally believe that most of the time the blade is spinning too fast for the fish to see it and when they hit it, it is a reaction strike. JMO

I just watched the video. Ok so that is what's been going on. I thought the video was a jig teaching video so I didn't watch it until after I posted the first time.

I have been wondering the same thing. He has not been on any other forums. I have tried to contact him several times via phone and e-mails. I have not heard from him. He and I are pretty close as far as being out of state and have spoken many times on the phone. I am going to send a letter to his house this weekend

Why not just wire tie with two wraps. Faster and easier.

I have used the Tyvek envelopes from the Post Office and they definitely work as I have them on 5 fluid bed cups. I do not know about the actual "TYVEK" brand though.

The mold says 1/4". This translates to 6mm.

Mark, The way I was always taught to harden steel was to get the item (hook in this case) red hot. Then, quench (dip) in oil or water. Oil is a better choice in my opinion. However, this isn't as easy as it looks. There's hardening and tempering. In order to get the correct hardness you should really know what kind of steel you have. Because if you harden it too much it will get brittle and crack. There's a lot of science to this and I'm not an expert. The other question is what do you do to the attached blade as you try to harden the hook? I would like to see some more responses to this as I would like to learn as well.

Welcome to TU. That mold takes a FG-30 weedguard in all the cavities. There is a lot in pouring. Make sure the mold is hot, do some test pours without hooks to see if you get good pours. Once all is hot put the hook in and start pouring. There are a lot of things in pouring jigs. I would start reading the threads here as there is a lot of info on tips and tricks. I would also strongly suggest reading the pinned thread at the top of this forum regarding safety in pouring lead. If you have any questions post them here and someone will help you out. Stay safe and Happy Pouring.

I don't know of any that are specific to belly weights. However here are some you can use or modify. https://store.do-itmolds.com/Worm-Nose-SinkerbrSz-116-18-316-14-516-38brHk-NAbrCollar-Barb_p_1097.html https://store.do-itmolds.com/Finesse-Drop-Shot-SinkerbrSz-132-116-18-316-14-38-12-58_p_688.html

Jig Man, I can't say I've ever had this problem with my RCBS. However, I have not poured using my RCBS in the last month or in really hot high humid conditions. Now with the Lee10 lb pot, I have had issues. When it is hot and humid in my garage, I tend to get some incomplete pours or it seems like my pot runs cold sometimes ( where I get spout freeze up) where I light a match under the spout to get flow again. I believe what is happening is the pot maxes out on heat and since it is hot outside it doesn't cycle on/off as much as if it were colder outside. Until the lead temp drops the pot won't turn on. When this happens the lead isn't as hot as it should be and doesn't want to pour well or fill the mold completely. When I run into this problem I try to pour really late in the evening or really early in the morning. I've tried turning it up to a higher number and sometimes it works and sometimes the lead just seems too hot and it takes even longer for the pot to cycle. Unfortunately I don't have a 100% solution, because it doesn't happen all the time. I can tell you this, that I (would rather pour when its cold outside than in the hot humid summer. Try putting your fan closer to your pot maybe 3-5 feet away. This should cool your pot and make it cycle more. The only thing I am not sure about is with it being so hot, will this even help. Try it and let us know.

Yes there are other medias you can try. Like mentioned brown lunch bags, Tyvek envelopes from the P.O (they're free), computer paper. vacuum bags (try different brands) and allergy pillow cases. There are many other porous things you can try that I'm sure you might have around the house.

Some powders will fluidize better than others. Depends on what company makes it along with the powder itself. White seems to be a problematic color as it is heavier then most colors. Fluid bed media plays another important role along with the fact if there is any moisture in the powder. I have 6 fluid cups with several different medias for 6 of the most common colors I use. Picking the right media is done by trial and error. I try not to use CSI powders because they all don't fluidize, so I have a company that I buy my powder from. The only thing is you have to buy 50 lbs at a time, which is more than most people would use in a lifetime. As far as using a air compressor, I don't think that will solve your problem. What I believe will happen, is that you will just have bigger volcanoes and more of a mess. You can try it and see what happens, then let us know. You can also try a small vibrator attached to the cup or under the cup to move the powder around along with the air pump. I am certain that you need to look at different media for your other colors which may help solve your problem. JMO.

I already have these, is there an option to make them black by dyeing them?

So a buddy of mine gave me some 3-1/4" green pumpkin plastic hellgramites to fish and try out in a couple of weeks. However, I need them to be black. I have some JJ's magic dye in red. If I dip the green pumpkin hellgramites in red, will it turn them black? If not does anyone else have any other ideas other than buying black ones. I do not pour or inject plastics so I don't know of any other options. Thanks in advance