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cadman

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Posts posted by cadman

  4. Chatter

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    Depends on how much you want to defend your idea/patent if there is one. Also you will need deep pockets and lawyers to protect it. If you have all that then you can do what you want. I look at it this way if it was my idea then I would want to protect it as much as possible from others copying it.

    • Like 1

  8. Grass swim jig

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    I have both Poison Tail molds, the Snootie mold and the Grass jig mold. They are all good jigs to use for swim jigs. Reason being they have a straight eye versus a flat wire which will always catch more grass. I personally like the Snootie jig because it has a 60• eyelet. This lets the jig run more parallel to the weeds if you tie a loop knot. The good thing about all three of these is that they go down to 1/8 oz which is what I use most. You can’t really go wrong with any of them. 
    BTW welcome to Tackle Underground. 

    • Like 1

  10. Midwest Finesse weedless mold

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    32 minutes ago, green said:

    Hi Jig Man and cadman. First I want to thank you both for readily sharing your knowledge and helping noobs like myself.

    As for the topic at hand...I modified my weedless MWF mold to use VMC6317 in addition to the Victory 10777. I am not getting runs along the hook shaft with either. The VMC hook actually have a smaller shaft diameter (0.038" vs 0.040" for the 10777). I run my lead at 700F. So maybe 750 is a bit too hot?

     

    Welcome to Tackle Underground

  11. Midwest Finesse weedless mold

    in Wire Baits

    Posted · Edited by cadman

    Oops, I'm sorry, I didn't know they had a different Midwest Finesse mold. I don't have that mold. I guess you can still check some of the things I mentioned above.

    BTW, how well do you do with that jig head? You can PM me as well. Thanks

    • Like 1

  13. Midwest Finesse weedless mold

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    Jig Man, I pour mostly hard lead in that mold in hopes of getting the keeper from loosening up and it doesn't help but I don't have lead going up the hook shank. Also I don't use Victory hooks. Couple things could make this happen.

    #1 The Victory hooks are thinner than the shank cavity in your mold leaving a gap and the hot lead is seeping through. If you have always used Victory hooks, maybe a new batch and the hooks are thinner or maybe a couple of hooks are thinner in the current batch? Just guessing here.

    #2 You have some lead or foreign substance on one of your mold halves that is gapping your mold causing lead to seep through.

    On the latter, take a single edge razor blade and lightly run the blade across both mold halves. This might dislodge any foreign substance that you may not readily see. Once done check your pour.

     

    On the first one, if you have a different brand hook check to see if you have the same problem.

     

    Post your results when you find your solution.

     

    • Like 1

  17. Spacing between tandem blades

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    I use beads and tubes as well. If you keep the lower blade kind of in the middle of the wireform arm it works the best. You don't want it hitting the top blade and you don't want it to hit the body of the spinnerbait. What you have looks good. It will also depend on how big of blades you use top and bottom. I have attached some pics of some of the spinnerbaits I have made in the past.

    DSC_0633.JPG

    bulls.JPG

    • Like 1

  18. Tungsten And Resin, An Experiment

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    11 hours ago, Ogajiga said:

    Brittle pure bismuth 85% lead weight 520* melt expands 3.32% melt - solid.

    Soft pliable pure tin 64% lead weight 450* melt shrinks 2.51% melt - solid

    In an alloy of the 2 metals a higher tin component will lessen the cooling expansion slightly and the alloy melt temp will decrease as low as 283* for the eutectic alloy of 63% bismuth - 37% tin.  So Tiderunner's 7-1 alloy might be an ideal compromise of powder paintable adequate weight (82% of lead) casting release mitigation.

    Smooth cavity face machined molds release castings best and Do-ts especially current mfg will tend to be sticky.  Simple ball or  tube head designs release easier than more complicated feature castings.  Thru casting pins in worm weights are near impossible to remove, while partial insert pins in weedless jig heads can be removed with pliers twisting and pulling.

    Very good information. Thank You. I can attest to the fact that worm weights are impossible to remove the pull pin from the center. Been there tried that. Also smooth jigs come out of the mold  a lot easier than jigs with a lot of  cuts and features, tried that as well. I wish I had known this a lot sooner but trial and error is the best teacher.

     

    Thanks Again for your info.

    • Like 1

  19. Tungsten And Resin, An Experiment

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, Tiderunner said:

    This is the alloy I use   https://www.rotometals.com/lead-free-bullet-casting-alloy-bismuth-based/.  Tougher than pure bismuth or bismuth tin. Melts at a higher temp, pours at around *500. I started using this when I figured if it's togh enough for bullet casting, it's gotta be tough enough for jig making.

    It is still brittle but not as brittle as other tin bismuth alloys. I have dropped some one the floor and had them crack. I also powder paint mine. I use an alcohol lamp and hold the jig over the flame for about 3-4 seconds then dip. Then to an oven around 200-250 degrees.

    These are a PITA to remove from the mold!

    Well thanks for the info. Yes Bismuth is easy to pour but tough to remove from the mold as you mentioned. Also tough to file the excess sprue material. I have had to literally dig out some bismuth heads from molds. Even "Drop Out" doesn't seem to help too much. It seems that lead shrinks some when it cools in the mold and bismuth seems to expand. Just my observation. Thanks Again f0or the info.

    • Like 1

  20. Tungsten And Resin, An Experiment

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    I have and still use bismuth to create the same size jig except the jig is lighter. The difference between lead and bismuth is this:

     

    Bismuth is lead free especially for some states that require lead free jigs.

    You can pour bismuth at home without any problems, can't do that with tungsten.

    Bismuth is about 1/3 less in weight than lead.

    Bismuth is very hard, and if you cast it at a brick wall hard enough it will crack. However I never had this happen yet.

    Bismuth has a low melting point, so if you intend to powder paint it, it can be very tricky. I suggest you rough it up, spray with self etching primer and air brush with lacquer.

     

    • Like 1

  22. A shout out to Cadman

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    bassjiggin1955,

    Thank You for taking the time to teach me how you tie those jigs. At first it is very frustrating, but after a 100 or so (LOL) it gets somewhat easier. I will be adding your lions collar when I get some free time.

    Thanks Again for all of your help.

    • Like 1

  25. Horse head jigs

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    On 1/1/2024 at 9:41 AM, Rob S said:

    Thanks for update, cadman.  The jump rings I had were the only ones I was aware of ad could find....at a hobby store.  They were indeed quite wea and eve before I used them I was suspicious of they're ability over the short term.  Went back to split rings.  Splurged for a quality split ring pliers to make life easier.

    If you got them at a hobby store, then they are more likely to be used for jewelry making, and are probably pretty weak.

    • Like 1
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