cadman

I have used the Tyvek envelopes from the Post Office and they definitely work as I have them on 5 fluid bed cups. I do not know about the actual "TYVEK" brand though.

The mold says 1/4". This translates to 6mm.

Mark, The way I was always taught to harden steel was to get the item (hook in this case) red hot. Then, quench (dip) in oil or water. Oil is a better choice in my opinion. However, this isn't as easy as it looks. There's hardening and tempering. In order to get the correct hardness you should really know what kind of steel you have. Because if you harden it too much it will get brittle and crack. There's a lot of science to this and I'm not an expert. The other question is what do you do to the attached blade as you try to harden the hook? I would like to see some more responses to this as I would like to learn as well.

Welcome to TU. That mold takes a FG-30 weedguard in all the cavities. There is a lot in pouring. Make sure the mold is hot, do some test pours without hooks to see if you get good pours. Once all is hot put the hook in and start pouring. There are a lot of things in pouring jigs. I would start reading the threads here as there is a lot of info on tips and tricks. I would also strongly suggest reading the pinned thread at the top of this forum regarding safety in pouring lead. If you have any questions post them here and someone will help you out. Stay safe and Happy Pouring.

I don't know of any that are specific to belly weights. However here are some you can use or modify. https://store.do-itmolds.com/Worm-Nose-SinkerbrSz-116-18-316-14-516-38brHk-NAbrCollar-Barb_p_1097.html https://store.do-itmolds.com/Finesse-Drop-Shot-SinkerbrSz-132-116-18-316-14-38-12-58_p_688.html

Jig Man, I can't say I've ever had this problem with my RCBS. However, I have not poured using my RCBS in the last month or in really hot high humid conditions. Now with the Lee10 lb pot, I have had issues. When it is hot and humid in my garage, I tend to get some incomplete pours or it seems like my pot runs cold sometimes ( where I get spout freeze up) where I light a match under the spout to get flow again. I believe what is happening is the pot maxes out on heat and since it is hot outside it doesn't cycle on/off as much as if it were colder outside. Until the lead temp drops the pot won't turn on. When this happens the lead isn't as hot as it should be and doesn't want to pour well or fill the mold completely. When I run into this problem I try to pour really late in the evening or really early in the morning. I've tried turning it up to a higher number and sometimes it works and sometimes the lead just seems too hot and it takes even longer for the pot to cycle. Unfortunately I don't have a 100% solution, because it doesn't happen all the time. I can tell you this, that I (would rather pour when its cold outside than in the hot humid summer. Try putting your fan closer to your pot maybe 3-5 feet away. This should cool your pot and make it cycle more. The only thing I am not sure about is with it being so hot, will this even help. Try it and let us know.

Yes there are other medias you can try. Like mentioned brown lunch bags, Tyvek envelopes from the P.O (they're free), computer paper. vacuum bags (try different brands) and allergy pillow cases. There are many other porous things you can try that I'm sure you might have around the house.

Some powders will fluidize better than others. Depends on what company makes it along with the powder itself. White seems to be a problematic color as it is heavier then most colors. Fluid bed media plays another important role along with the fact if there is any moisture in the powder. I have 6 fluid cups with several different medias for 6 of the most common colors I use. Picking the right media is done by trial and error. I try not to use CSI powders because they all don't fluidize, so I have a company that I buy my powder from. The only thing is you have to buy 50 lbs at a time, which is more than most people would use in a lifetime. As far as using a air compressor, I don't think that will solve your problem. What I believe will happen, is that you will just have bigger volcanoes and more of a mess. You can try it and see what happens, then let us know. You can also try a small vibrator attached to the cup or under the cup to move the powder around along with the air pump. I am certain that you need to look at different media for your other colors which may help solve your problem. JMO.

I already have these, is there an option to make them black by dyeing them?

So a buddy of mine gave me some 3-1/4" green pumpkin plastic hellgramites to fish and try out in a couple of weeks. However, I need them to be black. I have some JJ's magic dye in red. If I dip the green pumpkin hellgramites in red, will it turn them black? If not does anyone else have any other ideas other than buying black ones. I do not pour or inject plastics so I don't know of any other options. Thanks in advance

I don't make in-line spinners, but that sure is a different idea.

I have had limited success with it as well. Like Jig Man stated I used red RTV also, as it has the highest temp rating. You will have to make a two part mold with equal halves. One half will have to support the existing jig along with the hook. Once cured the other half will just finish your two part mold. This is very crude as you really should have pins to line up the two silicone halves along with a fixture to capture the liquid silicone and some way to support the existing jig in the half mold so it doesn't sink down. Other ideas used in the past was Bondo and Durham wood putty. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Who was Rick? I've been here since 2005 and I don't remember him.

I really love the concept. But here lies the problem as with the Do-It Molds. You really can only pour one jig at a time to get any kind of speed and expediency. I have tried to pour three different cavities with three different hook sizes in a Do-It mold at a time. The problem is you have three different hook sizes so you have to remember to put them in the correct cavity, then you have to put the hooks in the cavity and make sure that they are in there straight otherwise the mold won't close. You may say that it's not a big deal, but I have always had one hook move and once I straightened it another hook moves. It seems to take a longer time to pour 3 cavities then do one at a time. My only other concern would be is this. Since these are inserts, what keeps all the inserts aligned so you don't get a mismatch. For example one insert is .020 off or the cavity in the insert is not in the center. What about a piece of lead getting stuck between the inserts. Finally when I pour several hundred of one jig the mold really gets hot. I know for a fact that the mold expands some, what will that do to the inserts, will they shift? I assume all of these are machined. If this is done one by one, then this will be very costly. If this is mass produced then I can see inserts not all being the same size which could cause problems. Now I will say this, I like the fact that you can maybe put three different mold inserts into a holder. You can then set up all three for a run. For example , put in a ball jig, football jig and an arky jig. Then you can pour the ball head first, next pour the football jig and finally the arky head. I like the idea. If you do buy these let us know how it goes. I am very curious however skeptical.

Can you post some pics? Never heard of these molds.

Mustad 32886 hooks fit in that mold as well.

On most of my molds I just put them on top of the pot when I start the ifrst mold while I'm getting ready. The mold will heat up fast. When I'm in between pours and molds, I'll put another mold on top of my pot, while I cut the sprues off the first set of jigs. This is the way I do it. There is no right or wrong way, whatever works for you. Mark as far as magnets and heat. If I remember correctly from an old company I worked for. Yes magnets will lose some of their magnetic quality, when exposed to heat over 212 degrees. Once it loses some of its magnetism it doesn't come back once the magnets are allowed to cool. I don't remember what the magnetic ratio loss was when heated above 212 degrees. I'm sure you can do a google and find out.

I buy my lead from Roto-Metals as well. Reason being is that the lead is more consistent with each batch. So I will buy the 2-3% or the 3-5% antimonial lead. I used to get pure lead and mix it myself, however it is harder to get now. So buying it shipped is easier for me. Also as mentioned above, you can pour any lead, you just have to turn up the heat. I rarely have problems with my molds filling complete. Also using lead mold release helps quite a but.

Jig Man, I have used weedwacker line as well as using a thin piece piece of .015 wire. On the wire you just put a small bend at the bottom, stick i9t in the weedguard hole and epoxy it in (D2T). On the weedwacker line doesn't matter what size you get as long as it fits in the weedguard hole. On the weedwacker line lightly heet the bottom of your line until it is soft, then lightly press it on a piece of wood to mushroom out the head a bit. let cool and stick it in the weedguard hole with epoxy. On aligning it in the hole, see attached pic. This will keep it centered in the hole until the epoxy dries.

So what did you end up doing to fix your problem?

Jig Man, The only way I was able to remove JB weld is with high heat. Something like a propane torch. It has to be heated to over 600 degrees and at that point it should soften. Just a note of caution, when you do this, don't breathe the fumes and make sure you do it outside with glasses, facemask and gloves. Also take off the wood handles. I have also had luck with sticking a pointed object like an awl into the JB weld and if you tap it lightly with a hammer it should start chipping off in small chunks. That's all I got for you.

I skin hook mine as well. It keeps from picking up weeds.

Thanks, I'll try it out.

Welcome Aboard. Which Cain-O Lakes are you referring to, in northern IL?

I was always getting mine from Lure Parts on Line