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Maypo1979

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Everything posted by Maypo1979

  1. Attached is a link to a post I started last year with pictures of my Lure Dryer Maypo http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/11780-different-ture-turner.html
  2. Dramone, In order to know how a clear coat will affect Buoyancy, you really need to know the Specific Gravity. Water is 1.00. Anything greater than 1.00 is heavier than water & will decrease buoyancy. Anything less than 1.00 will actually make the Crankbait more buoyant. Devon 2 Ton is 1.17. Adding multiple coats of Devcon will decrease the buoyancy. This is most noticed on Jerk Baits due to the large amount of surface area relative to the volume (Long and Slender). You may not even be able to detect a second coat on a Fat Crankbait. I don't know the Specific Gravity of any other Clear Coats, however I am sure any hard Clearcoat will be greater than 1.00. Maypo
  3. I know that you said it is not a Luhr Jensen, but I have some Radar 10's & Radar 13's and it looks very, very close to a Radar 13. I don't think they make the 13 anymore. It was a pretty nice little plug though. Maypo
  4. Terry, I just purchased a large order of Heavy Density Balsa from SpecializedBalsa & was satisfied with the service. They charge an extra 40% for the Heavy Density, but I think it is worth it. It really sands much smoother than light "Hobby Shop" Balsa. Maypo
  5. Senko, Lexan (Polycarbonate) is a Thermoplastic. "Thermoplastics" are materials which can be heated and formed, then re-heated and re-formed repeatedly. Circuit Board Material (AKA G-10, FR-4 etc) is glass cloth with an epoxy resin binder, a Thermoset Laminate. "Thermoset" materials undergo a chemical as well as a phase change when they are heated. They cannot be re-shaped by heating. In fact at some point enough heat will just make the material smolter and give off some pretty nasty fumes. Maypo
  6. WayUpNorth36, The magnets that I purchased from PapaJohnsToolbox were Rare Earth Magnets rated at 8 Lb Pull. These are very strong for their size. I dont think an ordinary magnet would hold the weight being cantilevered like this. I am not sure how heavy some of the Musky baits are, but I will run an experiment with this setup if you let me know. I purched 3-1/2" Hemostats, but I think for the larger baits you may want 5" long minimum. I kinda wish I had purchased 5" hemostats myself, but the 3-1/2" size seems to be working OK. Hooked Solid, If you are intested in building something very similar I can send you some sketches of the wood pieces I cut up. The whole thing is approx 36" long. The (2) vertical pieces are on 32" centers and if you look close at the photos you will see (2) eye hooks. I use these to hang the rack from floor joists in my shop. Thanks Maypo
  7. One other thing I am going to do is take a steel piece of bar approx 6" long, and install it vertical onto some sort of base and use this to hold the bait while airbrushing in the spray booth. Maypo
  8. Pete, I also like your idea of the Electrical Jacks. A nice modular kind of approach. You could even install a couple of these on the inside surface of you Paint Booth to hold your lure while painting or in between color changes. BTW I am familiar with these types of jacks and they are normally called Banana Jacks (RCA Jacks are the jacks usually seen on the back of a set of speakers). These are easy to find at Radio Shack (Expensive) or Mail Order (Cheap) from Allied, Newark or Digikey any many discount online stores. Thanks, Steve
  9. Cliff, I would assume that if you are spraying this on, then there would not be a need for a drying wheel. Is that right? This would seem to be an added benefit to me. Maypo
  10. Doomart, Do you think the Devcon Bonded hand-wound screw eyes in a fairly loose fit (large hole) is as secure as a pre-fabricated threaded screw eye. I like the looks of the hand-wound screw eyes also, and have done them that way, but I always worry that a big fish may pull them out. BTW, I have caught (3) Bass so far this year on some Flat Sided Cedar Crankbaits that I made similar to the ones that Blackjack posted a while back. They have my own threaded in eyese and seem to hold fine. I also want to thank Blackjack for posting those diagrams. I also saw that he just posted a Big-O style crankbait schematic. These are excellent starting points for beginners. Maypo
  11. I did not see anyone post any reference to this. Iwata has a few How-To Articles on their site for Painting Lures. They are written by Mike Bromelow. There are (4) Articles with pretty good step-by-step photos. I hope it can help someone out. http://www.iwata-medea.com/resources/lures.jsp Thanks, Maypo
  12. Fatfingers, I have also used Weldon 4 (acrylic glue) is aka: methylene chloride on a Q-tip to polish edges of Lexan Bills. It evaporates extremely fast, and the fumes are bad so use in well ventilated area. It really clarifies the edge, and will remove the sharp edges. Thanks, Maypo
  13. Fatfingers, I have not done any drafting with these in 25 years, and I am not sure if any of the new compass sets include them. I know you can still get the ink holder in a pen. The drafting companies will call it a ruling pen. These are intended for straight lines only. If I were you, I would look on E-Bay for an old vintage Drafting Compass Set, and try to get one that was made in Germany or Switzerland. My old set was made in Switzerland and had a lot of use and is still like new. I think it is a much better set than anything you can buy new anyway. I have seen them sell for $10-20. You may want to E-mail the Seller just to make sure it includes the Ink Nib, however all of the old one I have seen have them. Good Luck, Steve
  14. Drewski, I have attached an Excel file that I created a while back with densities of various materials, including some wood species. Remember that any material with a Specific Gravity of 1.00 or higher will sink, as water is the reference at 1.00. Steve common_material_weights_560.xls common_material_weights_560.xls common_material_weights_560.xls common_material_weights_560.xls common_material_weights_560.xls common_material_weights_560.xls common_material_weights_560.xls common_material_weights_560.xls common_material_weights_560.xls
  15. Fatfingers, Are you referring to the old style Drafting Compass with an Inking Nib?. The were used back when inked drawings were common. You put ink into the oped cavity between the forks of the nib, and line weight (thickness) was controlled by adjustment of the thumb screw. I have attached a photo of mine from many years ago. Steve
  16. Thanks for the head's up Dave. I also didn't see the Golden brand of paints on their site. I may look for that locally this week. However the Bone pattern isn't one that I want to paint right away. Thanks again, Steve
  17. Thanks for everything Dave, I placed the order tonight from DixieArt.com. I was able to get the 4 oz bottles of most colors at about the same price that Michaels and A.C.Moore wanted for 2 oz bottles. I ordered the Pro Flo White in a 32 oz bottle. One question I had for you is what you meant by the "#5 Assembly" for the X-Treme white base coats. Thanks again, Steve
  18. I am new to painting crankaits with an airbrush, and I am looking for some help with recommendations on my first order of Createx paints. I am trying to paint color schemes similar to the following commercialy available patterns: Norman: Green Joe Norman: Sun Chartreuse/Blue Bagley: Chartreuse Crayfish Bagley: Firetiger Rebl: Bone Orange Any help with recommended colors, extenders, size bottles, etc would be appreciated. Steve
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