folk

Just have a look at commercial cranks. You'll see that the longer and straighter the lip (esp. with tow-eye on lip), the deeper it goes. And vica versa, the steeper, and shorter the lip, the shallower your lure comes. I think no formula, just try and error, or copy some tried-and-true bait. Have a nice weekend! folk

Yesterday I lost actually not my very first, but my first really producing lure. It was my mistake. Most likely the line was injured, because it broke, in spite of weak drag setting. I should have pensioned off my little dear, and put to the shelf from my box, but hey, no use to cry over spilt milk. Let this pic stand for a memory here, with the best fish caught on it. folk

I wrote my comments in email How about "Baltic Baits"? folk

hey man, it's quite something I wonder, how large is your bait box folk

Hey, is it too late now to get in? I just came across with this topic, and would be interested. folk

Thanks a lot, woodsac! Though we don't play and watch so much baseball here is Europe your explanation gave me a clear idea of these presentation techniques. folk

Thanks a lot! Not fully clear yet, but realized at least, that the hard bait section was the worst place to ask this question folk

Sorry for my trivial question. Could somebody explain to me, what method does "flipping and pitching" refer to? It's not something, that I could look up in the dictionary :oops: TIA folk

What I use for lips, is not exactly Lexan, but should be pretty similar stuff, called Axpet, from Bayer. I make just straight, slightly curved lips, not complicated shapes. I use a template for bending. You need two cylindrical objects as template, that fit into each other, with enough clearance between them to accomodate the plastic strip/sheet. I use two glass beakers, used in laboratory. I cut a strip from the plastic sheet with a length of the circumference of the smaller beaker, and width of the length of lips to be made. Bend the strip into a circle, put into the bigger beaker, and fasten with the smaller one to fit closely around the glass wall. I hope you can imagine it, in spite of my poor explanation :-D After that I put it into a lab heating oven for a minute or so, then remove and let it cool. I think that household cooking oven will do the same.The suitable temperature for my material was 100-120 C, but it may differ with Lexan. I hope that you or others can adopt this method for Lexan as well. folk

Thanks Swede! As far as I understood, you don't add any lead. Do you use hardwood? How is the final buoyancy of your lures? folk

Thanks! As for the pic, it came straight from the scanner folk

Hey here's my one. Hope it goes through folk

I did something with tissue paper prints the other day, but not exacty your method. I applied the printed image on a white base-coated lure, with nitro lacquer, as adhesive. It's not bad, I'll send an image tomorrow, if dont forget By now I purchased adhesive spray, but no spare time to play with The idea of lacquer method came from my daughter. She used to decorate picture frames with serviettes in this way. folk

OK, thx LaPala, I see now. In my mind there was such kind of exploded view, that they include with mechanical stuff, like reels, outboard engines, etc. folk

Swede, congrat's to your dying shads, and also Blades&Baits for professional finish! LaPala, you mentioned some exploded view. Did you mean a sort of sketch? I haven't find there anything like that. Swede again, I'd like to build something like your dying shad lures. Would you be kind enough to share with me/us the principles of design of these sort of lures? I mean body shape, weighting scheme, lip type, action, and anything that could be important. Thanks in advance! folk